Recent content by ARSkemp

I've been running a 500.1 at half ohm for about a little less than year now in my daily driver. It probably doesn't see anything near that after impedance rise, but I've had no problems whatsoever. Definitely need the electrical to back it up though...

I ran a little over 1000 watts each to the SDCs I had, and I would say thats the most they will take daily. I would put them in a little smaller box though, 2ft^3, and tune a bit higher. Do NOT run them sealed.

I somewhat agree with this. Although I don't believe that it necessarily was lacking in output, only that it was very bottom heavy and much louder on the lower frequencies (which seems to be what you are looking for). Also, if you add the bp option I don't think you will have a problem sending...

I would argue that regardless whether their was a battery in the back or not, i would still rather display the voltage the amp is receiving then the voltage @ the front battery.

Make sure to try a range of test tones when trying to find your impedance rise. Just because it rises a huge amount on a certain frequency doesn't mean it will have the same amount of rise on another frequency. If ur thinking "I'm getting a super huge impedance rise so i'm gonna wire my amp real...

Alright, so for the 1.5" part, do you mean the width of the pieces of the frame (so that the "window" created by the frame is smaller/larger depending on the width) or do you mean the thickness of the window (like stacking 2 .75" mdf windows together, like a double baffle)? or both?

So would 1 1/2" be you recommendation even though the box isn't very deep? The box in the images is only 12.5" net depth (from front to back in the inside) and I don't want to impede airflow too much... Definitely learned something new from this, thanks for the response.

Box is ~4ft^3 tuned to 40hz with a ~8" aero. Probably for 2 HDC312s. Double baffle on top, triple for just the aero (to keep it a diameter's distance from the back wall). Which type of bracing would be better in this case? Image 1 (1.5" Dowels) Image 2 (don't know the name of this bracing...

So on the pwk box you posted, James Bang drew a question mark. Is that the measurement your looking for?

every once in a while, i like messing around in solidworks for a little bit, whether it be a sub box or some other random thing. would you recommend the 8" aero to the side compared to any of the above listed so far? I've never tried port side before, and i know sub up port back is tried and...

I might still redo a previous design i had made (and lost due to a computer crash) for a ~4ft^3 with an 8" flared tube to the side. I have a jpeg of it from an old thread i created, but don't have the dimensions anymore (everything is to scale relative to each other on the pic though, but was...

I know the 5" port width may be a little farfetched, but if wood thickness is taken into account, then even if the port width is smaller, there's still the .75"x3 for the 3 pieces of mdf that needs to be dealt with if the subs are facing up. Ya, I know the drawings probably aren't to scale too...

Here's an example of what i meant, for a 15" deep box: This is neglecting the wood thickness, and the tuning is probably some random hz, but should be enough to explain. Say i wanted the subs to face the same direction of the port opening, and i needed 11" of clearance for the subs. They...

The only reason i'm thinking about doing it this way, is because it lets me split the port width in half. This way, the L shape that is made with the back wall gives me more space for mounting the subs, since i'm trying to make the box with as small as depth as possible (with the port opening...

something more like what soloXgt said? With it having a depth of about the port width? Like this? and i'm assuming that in the above pic that both angles are made parallel between the opposite walls and that the port width is roughly the same as the rest of the port.