Recent content by gstokes

Most of y'all can go **** yourselves but I still love ya enough to share this with you. Just add microphones and stir, enjoy... Bose noise cancelling now available for cars without Bose stereos

Great info, thank-you very much ! I truly enjoy being educated by someone more knowledgeable

14 volts is a bit high, try using 13.8 and you end up with 1104 watts, now account for amplifier efficiency (class A, class B, etc.) and Voltage drop and you will have a more accurate representation of amplifier output.. It's not possible to make more than 1104 watts unless you increase source...

too much controversy, look it up yourself...

You just might need the LC6i, LC7i, etc.. It can't hurt anything.. I can't be sure without knowing frequency designation and channel layout so play it safe and use the LC6i or LC7i etc etc..

No, the LC2i already has existing bass restoration circuitry, that cures the roll off.. If you had no Bass at all in the existing L/R channels then upgrade to LC6i, etc.. You have a full-range signal, it's just getting the bottom chopped off to keep sub-frequencies from damaging the speakers...

If the head unit already supplies full-range left and right channels then YES, the LC2i is ideal. If the outputs from the head unit require summing to create a full-range signal then NO, the LC6i or LC7i is required. Full-range signal = 20 Hz- 20kHz

aka Bass Blockers, here's a handy dandy calculator to assist you in selecting the proper cap/s.. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc.asp#ccc

The LC2i is ideal unless the outputs need summing, if the h/u already provides full-range left and right channels then there is no need for the LC6i or LC7i..

hmm, you kind of answered your own question with the question.. If you're not willing and able to upgrade the alternator then you need to downgrade your system goals, with a 2000 watt amplifier it would be drawing 144 amps and that's just for your amplifier, add another 50 amps for your...

It's a little big to fit under the hood and you need to underdrive it about 100:1 just to spin it slow enough so it doesn't explode and send magnets flying in all directions, charging voltage is insufficient as well as charge current, 10 amps just isn't going to cut it

I may have this wrong but it appears that you will be using 2 tweeters per side and 2 - 6.5" speakers per side, you could eliminate the separate crossover and just use a 4 or 5 channel amplifier with built-in low pass/band pass/high pass active crossovers built-in then wire each pair of tweeters...

You can bridge channel 1 and 2 to power a component system in left door or kick panel, then bridge channel 3 and 4 to power component system on right side, my 5 channel amplifier outputs 75 watts per channel (1,2,3 and 4) at 4 ohm so there was no need to bridge any of the channels but if you...

You are correct, the distance from speaker to ear is more equal with tweeters in the kick panel but they are still aimed at the listener, it is matter of preference.. I don't mount speakers in the kick panel simply because they are more prone to suffer physical damage from spilled drinks and...

For the most part components are always better but several manufacturers have found a way to make coaxials sound good. IMHO you want the tweeters in front of you and not beside you, the angle of dispersion is lowest with tweeters and they (could) suffer from off-axial frequency response, mostly...