Recent content by jda

Have the ref 650.6 and would like the DC version. I have straight cash or can partial trade for zx2500.1, 800a2, 450/4, 300/4, LRx 4.5, LRx 1.1k, Ref 350.2, T400.4 and many more. Thanks.

I will. It works for me. I just wanted to know if anybody had any suggestions about a D class 750-1000w amps at 4 ohms. I am considering something new - I am dogmatic enough with my subs and components. I don't really care for any help on my methodology. My thanks to those who had some...

You can hear it. I have a 800a2 and MTX 2300, but they sound plenty muddy bridged over 50. They also really eat up the juice. In all fairness, they could be half worn out. What do any of you care what I spend my money on? After I bought the No. 7s, this is all cheap stuff.

4 ohms means less heat, less input requirement and significantly less distortion. I want to be in that .01 thd range even at 1000W. I can also keep my electrical system totally stock even at super high volumes. The only downside is amp size and cost. I can handle both of those to not...

I have several 1500-1bdcps and they are fine... but I wanted to try something else. Needs to be D class, efficient and quality. Cost is not really a big deal - under $1000, or so. Any suggestions? The 1500-1bdcps are about $425 and seem like a good deal... so even you think that I should...

You guys are great. Thanks. I will probably pick up a spool of speedwire, but I might hit home depot first for some tstat wire. I don't see how solid tstat wire would hurt for a 1v signal at about 2-12 watts...

I would like to move my processor to the trunk. Anybody know where I can find some wire with 10 strands in it so that I can extend the 5 channels about 12 feet? I suppose that I could run 5 pairs, but would rather do one wire if I can.

If you have a single sealed Q on 1000W, or more, what kind of db levels are you seeing? I put one in a sealed fiberglass box at 1200 watts and my cheap/old SPL meter said 131 - I don't believe it, so that is why I am asking. Thanks in advance.

The JL amps are more power hungry than most, but not for the reason that you listed - you aren't talking about a lot of wattage though. Most ABs are pretty power hungry. If you need more wattage, then you need more... but look for an amp that is optimized for the ohm load that you plan to run...

I run a sealed 12" Q off of one in my trunk - about 1000W at 2.8 ohms and it slams and sounds great. ...and it is small.

Most amps are built for low distortion at a set pipe size (4-8 ohm usually) - components are selected that meet this criterion. If you slow down, or speed up, that pipe, then distortion goes up because the components are not in their optimal range. It is a price point issue since likely few...

I have used about 10 amps on components and the JLs are the best of breed. I had a 300/4 on my K2s and went to a 450/4 active and it sounds even better. The sq out of the JL is amazing. Also, I doubt that you will hit 75W very often unless you just like listening to a test tone CD - my 300/4...

Probably has to be at 4 ohms, but any ohmage is OK. Money is not an issue, but want to keep the stock alternator... so 1000@ at 50-60% at 1 ohm is not going to work. 1000W at 4 ohm at 88% should be fine. Suggestions? I have a Kicker 1500.1 and JL 1000/1 laying around, but neither of those...

Got a new car and need some advice. I have a 12" Q that I am going to use, but not sure about the amp. I have a JL 1000/1 collecting dust, but I am not sure that I want that power hog in my car (I want to stay stock with the alternator and if I can). I also have a T10001BD that is new in the...

I am pretty sure that there are no prefab ones to be found. I have found a few places online that will make one with a 3 week lead time and whatever I want in finish (carpet, paint, carbon fiber, etc.) and cubic feet up to 1.5. I guess that they have trunk molds of the cars from doing one of...