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2016 sierra 2500hd speaker setup
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<blockquote data-quote="winkychevelle" data-source="post: 8823204" data-attributes="member: 611804"><p>I hate coaxials because usually they have no way to control the tweeter the make it blends well and typically they struggle with the midbass region.</p><p></p><p>On top of that it's hard if not impossible to get the sound stage up high and wide with coaxials in the door. Tweeters on the dash will naturally pull the sound stage up to at least dash level and pointing then at the windshield usually pushes the sound stage higher. </p><p></p><p>It is my opinion that the kiss method is the way to go with most installs.</p><p></p><p>1 pair of tweeters</p><p>1 set of midbass</p><p>Subs</p><p>4channel amp and mono</p><p>And dsp. </p><p></p><p>Rear fill if desired I usually turn down as it tends to pull the sound stage rearward which is not preferable. A front sub is the easy way to get the 50-100hz kick drums to be solid and authoritative but is notalways easily implemented. </p><p></p><p>Infinite baffle kicks are another good way to get solid midbass but most do not want to go that route as it involves cutting the floor.</p><p></p><p>The doors are probably the hardest to do because they are poorly sealed, not structurally sound and tend to rattle. But most of the time you can fix most of those issues with proper deadening and door treatments. </p><p></p><p>I'd rather dump money into deadening and door treatments then rear fill or more expensive speakers</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="winkychevelle, post: 8823204, member: 611804"] I hate coaxials because usually they have no way to control the tweeter the make it blends well and typically they struggle with the midbass region. On top of that it's hard if not impossible to get the sound stage up high and wide with coaxials in the door. Tweeters on the dash will naturally pull the sound stage up to at least dash level and pointing then at the windshield usually pushes the sound stage higher. It is my opinion that the kiss method is the way to go with most installs. 1 pair of tweeters 1 set of midbass Subs 4channel amp and mono And dsp. Rear fill if desired I usually turn down as it tends to pull the sound stage rearward which is not preferable. A front sub is the easy way to get the 50-100hz kick drums to be solid and authoritative but is notalways easily implemented. Infinite baffle kicks are another good way to get solid midbass but most do not want to go that route as it involves cutting the floor. The doors are probably the hardest to do because they are poorly sealed, not structurally sound and tend to rattle. But most of the time you can fix most of those issues with proper deadening and door treatments. I'd rather dump money into deadening and door treatments then rear fill or more expensive speakers [/QUOTE]
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