2018 Wrangler JL- Upgrading from JL Audio 8" microsub

What a voltage meter does is tell you when your system is actually giving out (when volts drop below 12) and what you can do is just turn it down until the voltages are healthy again (above 12.0 volts) You can run a 10000000000000000000 watt amp on a stock electrical system with zero issues as long as you set amplifier gains via voltage. Will you get all those watts? no but your system, amp and everything will be safe and operational and you get as much performance as your current electrical system gives.  

Ps the taramps is way more energy efficient than the JL as long as you arent maxing it out like a dummy.




 
uhm bro how many times do I need to tell you that you are not going to be consuming anywhere near the amount of electrical power thats inside that video? 

How many times did I say that you can set however many watts you need just to get your dayton to play loud and sound good? 

just because you have 2400 watts doesnt mean you use all of it

Those tests are on a -0 db test tone thats pure 100% bass notes with no stopping.  While music is on and off bass hits with rests and the DB levels are around -10 ish  What that means is you are literally drawing next to nothing in actual power consumption.

I think i said all this literally 3 times in the thread but it flew over your head all 3 times.

Stop all this theoretical amp draw BS because whatever you think on paper is completely different from what actually happens in the real world system install. This is why I urge you to get a voltage meter to monitor car voltages which is 10000000000000x more effective then doing these amperage calculations which literally do nothing.
I've been confused bc several of the comments below the Taramps videos claim it's geared toward competitive play and not a daily driver listening to it alot over long periods of time.  Also, claimed you should upgrade your battery and alternator.   

 
6 minutes ago, Jeffdachef said:

What a voltage meter does is tell you when your system is actually giving out (when volts drop below 12) and what you can do is just turn it down until the voltages are healthy again (above 12.0 volts) You can run a 10000000000000000000 watt amp on a stock electrical system with zero issues as long as you set amplifier gains via voltage. Will you get all those watts? no but your system, amp and everything will be safe and operational and you get as much performance as your current electrical system gives.  

Ps the taramps is way more energy efficient than the JL as long as you arent maxing it out like a dummy.


Great stuff...any sound quality differences between the taramps md1800 and hd750?

 
I've been confused bc several of the comments below the Taramps videos claim it's geared toward competitive play and not a daily driver listening to it alot over long periods of time.  Also, claimed you should upgrade your battery and alternator.   
Yeah he's just making recommendations to bassheads that normally watch his videos and that crowd just wants to max out all the times.   Amps can be used in different ways.  You dont have to use it like a basshead.  An amp puts out power thats all it does, there's no sound quality difference as long as you arent clipping and distorting.  

 
Yeah he's just making recommendations to bassheads that normally watch his videos and that crowd just wants to max out all the times.   Amps can be used in different ways.  You dont have to use it like a basshead.  An amp puts out power thats all it does, there's no sound quality difference as long as you arent clipping and distorting.  
I bought the hd750 today and found a good deal on an open box Audiofrog GB10D4 that has never been played($375 delivered to my door)  Read up about it and supposed to be very smooth with solid punch.  Have you heard a Audiofrog G series sub?  Worth buying?

Also, do you have recommendations for a sound processor that will provide time alignment?  I'd like the highs/mids to be slightly delayed so the sub in the trunk cargo area will blend better.

 
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I bought the hd750 today and found a good deal on an open box Audiofrog GB10D4 that has never been played($375 delivered to my door)  Read up about it and supposed to be very smooth with solid punch.  Have you heard a Audiofrog G series sub?  Worth buying?

Also, do you have recommendations for a sound processor that will provide time alignment?  I'd like the highs/mids to be slightly delayed so the sub in the trunk cargo area will blend better.
The dayton dsp is a great choice right now. 8ch dsp's used to be $$$ but they've really come down in price

 
almost all sound processors have time alignment.  Dayton DSP. 

audiofrog's the forum boner brand, From what i hear in person, they arent worth the price they are charging, pretty mid tier sound imo. 

 
almost all sound processors have time alignment.  Dayton DSP. 

audiofrog's the forum boner brand, From what i hear in person, they arent worth the price they are charging, pretty mid tier sound imo. 
Was hoping you would like that sub for $375...What 10" sub would you buy that is a solid step up from the Dayton in the $300-400 range to go in a .75" sealed box powered by the hd750?

 
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Was hoping you would like that sub for $375...What 10" sub would you buy that is a solid step up from the Dayton in the $300-400 range to go in a .75" sealed box powered by the hd750?
the subs that are a step up require bigger boxes so they would perform worse than the dayton.  You need to understand its not the sub that makes everything sound good, its the box, right now you have zero space so you need a sub that works well in small spaces, literally the dayton is the best for the job. Do you think the dayton is some kind of trash off brand or something? because they are extremely reputable in the SQ world.

 
or is it the looks thats off putting? Whats the real reason why you are adamant on hating the sub?
My installer, Crutchfield techs and 2 local installers all said the w6v3 and audiofrog gb are a big step up from Dayton.  However, I took your advice and just ordered the Dayton 10" DVC, Knuconceptz 4 AWG OFC amp kit and new bass knob and sold my current knob.  Although, I hate the Sound Ordinance logo on it, I'm looking at buying this hatchback 5/8" mdf braced .76 box and stuffing with polyfil:   https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1075S/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

The 12" Dayton was going to require building a box to fit my height and depth goal.  To build a box with 13 layer birch plywood, it would cost $120 for materials.  I imagine it wouldnt be perfect considering it's my first box and I'd be better off going with the 10" and $60 prefab box.  Would the 12" sound that much better in a SQ build that isnt looking to rattle the trim?  I could call amazon and switch to a 12" and try and build a box if it's a big sound difference.  Thoughts?  Thanks again

 
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My installer, Crutchfield techs and 2 local installers all said the w6v3 and audiofrog gb are a big step up from Dayton.  However, I took your advice and just ordered the Dayton 10" DVC, Knuconceptz 4 AWG OFC amp kit and new bass knob and sold my current knob.  Although, I hate the Sound Ordinance logo on it, I'm looking at buying this hatchback 5/8" mdf braced .76 box and stuffing with polyfil:   https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1075S/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

The 12" Dayton was going to require building a box to fit my height and depth goal.  To build a box with 13 layer birch plywood, it would cost $120 for materials.  I imagine it wouldnt be perfect considering it's my first box and I'd be better off going with the 10" and $60 prefab box.  Would the 12" sound that much better in a SQ build that isnt looking to rattle the trim?  I could call amazon and switch to a 12" and try and build a box if it's a big sound difference.  Thoughts?  Thanks again
i've explained it before, the 10 would require a bigger box than the 12 in the modeling program..... I really dont like repeating myself over and over and over and  over and over and over...

straight up the plan is to Just get the 7 layer pine ply, do the dayton 12 dual voice coil wire to 2 ohms on the amp you chose and you'll be fine, its shouldnt cost you more than 50-60 bucks in material. Dont get caught up on the baltic birch hype that everyone's pushing you to spend needless amounts of cash.   The 12 works best in the airspace and dimensions you specified.  If you want the 10, the box needs to be bigger than what the prefabs can do so you'll still need to stuff with a lot of polyfill.  The 12 has a stronger motor than the 10 which allows it to perform better in a smaller enclosure. 

Of course crutchfield pushes JL audio, its their cash cow and dayton is their direct competitor aka parts express, they hate each other's guts. Its not a huge step up at all, stats and specs dont lie they can claim it but where's the proof?  Its just literally a flex factor for them rather than a real performance factor.

 
they dayton is more closer to a pure SQ subwoofer so the actual bass accuracy, extension and linearity is actually a step above the JL. In a ported box the JL will be more boomy like mainstream kind of bass so idk you say SQ, I already recommended one of the top performers for SQ in the 1000 and under category thats won some competitions but because of the price you somehow think its inferior.

 
they dayton is more closer to a pure SQ subwoofer so the actual bass accuracy, extension and linearity is actually a step above the JL. In a ported box the JL will be more boomy like mainstream kind of bass so idk you say SQ, I already recommended one of the top performers for SQ in the 1000 and under category thats won some competitions but because of the price you somehow think its inferior.
I just changed the order to a dayton ho 12" dvc. I was struggling with the 12" bc I want the top of the box height to be closer to 13" and the 12" will be very tight.  I have plenty of room for width and depth, just not height.  People have been telling me a 10" is generally more punchy for rock music and the 12" would get lower and is more for bassheads.  They also said a 10" would blend better with my 5.25" components.  

Where can I get a grill for the sub?  I dont like the 3 bar grill look.  

 
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