2018 Wrangler JL- Upgrading from JL Audio 8" microsub

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Ok...I'm gonna attempt to build a box.  I was thinking of building it out of 3/4" baltic birch plywood from home depot to save some weight bc if I go with 3/4" MDF, its going to be heavy.  Will that work?

Secondly, I want to beef up the wiring, distribution block, fuses, ground wires.  I currently have 8AWG power wire going to a distribution block in the front passenger seat firewall area powering:

-Alpine PDR F50 under the front driver seat(85 watt RMS 4 channel; recommended 4 AWG power and ground)

-JL Fix 86 under the steering column

-JL Audio XD600 1v/2 or jl HD750/2 sub amp(under the front passenger seat) powering a dayton 315 dvc ho 10" or 12" sealed sub in the rear trunk area (looking for a used one now and recommended 4 AWG power and ground)

These are class d amps...Should I go with a 4 or 2 AWG power wire from the amp to distribution and 4 AWG from distribution to amps and then 12AWG copper wire from amp to sub?  What fuses?  I dont want to have to beef up the alternator or battery.  Thanks for your help!

I "wood" NOT trust any type of boards from HD except MDF. The quality isn't as good as a local lumber store. Never know when you have voids that cannot be seen with the human eye. Be ready to pay more $$ for some Baltic birch. Here I have built this entirely from just that material...View attachment 5171

 

[JeeperVol]

I "wood" NOT trust any type of boards from HD except MDF. The quality isn't as good as a local lumber store. Never know when you have voids that cannot be seen with the human eye. Be ready to pay more $$ for some Baltic birch. Here I have built this entirely from just that material...View attachment 5171

Looks great...however, that piece of fine art is begging to be stolen if it were in a wrangler and a bit too nice.  I'm going to black carpet mine to blend in and I still want trunk space.

 

[JeeperVol]

3/4 is good, you dont need bracing titebond 2, drywall screws like 1.25  inches.  any construction adhesive or caulk is fine. Just drill a tight hole enough for speaker wire to fit through tightly and wire it directly to the amp then caulk the hole.  If you need to remove it, you can just unhook from the amp terminals.  As for securing the sub, you can just get metal L brackets, paint it to the color of your sub box and then screw it down to the car and sub box so you dont have to take out the sub. You'll only need 1 or two. 

Btw here's the cut sheets.

View attachment 5685

Jeff...this info is awesome.  I've decided to go with the 10" Dayton dvc ho and build the box out of 3/4 plywood.  I pulled out my jl micro sub and mounting board yesterday and patched the carpet and screw holes and re-measured.  I'm wanting to build the box this week and need to buy materials today.  Do you mind running your models to see if this hatchback style box size will sound good with a sealed dayton 10"?  External box dimensions 13" wide × 13" tall × 9" deep top depth and 13" bottom depth.  If it will work, can you send the cut sheet?  If it isnt optimum size, will you let me know the optimum space needed and I'll adjust the box size a little bigger?

Thanks a ton for your help!

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Jeff...this info is awesome.  I've decided to go with the 10" Dayton dvc ho and build the box out of 3/4 plywood.  I pulled out my jl micro sub and mounting board yesterday and patched the carpet and screw holes and re-measured.  I'm wanting to build the box this week and need to buy materials today.  Do you mind running your models to see if this hatchback style box size will sound good with a sealed dayton 10"?  External box dimensions 13" wide × 13" tall × 9" deep top depth and 13" bottom depth.  If it will work, can you send the cut sheet?  If it isnt optimum size, will you let me know the optimum space needed and I'll adjust the box size a little bigger?

Thanks a ton for your help!

surprisingly the dayton 10 actually needs around .95 cubic feet to sound its best. While the dayton 12 needs .85 cubic feet with the dimensions I showed in that cutsheet. so i would actually just do the 12 if you doing a box like that, just give up the extra 1 inch extras on dimensions and you'll sound a lot better than the 10. The 10 will work in the smaller one but thats the bare minimum, you'll want to stuff it with polyfill. But again, it wont matter too much, whenever you go smaller you trade up low end extension for more punchiness. 

make sure you get the dual voice coil ones not the single voice coil daytons.

 

[JeeperVol]

surprisingly the dayton 10 actually needs around .95 cubic feet to sound its best. While the dayton 12 needs .85 cubic feet with the dimensions I showed in that cutsheet. so i would actually just do the 12 if you doing a box like that, just give up the extra 1 inch extras on dimensions and you'll sound a lot better than the 10. The 10 will work in the smaller one but thats the bare minimum, you'll want to stuff it with polyfill. But again, it wont matter too much, whenever you go smaller you trade up low end extension for more punchiness. 

make sure you get the dual voice coil ones not the single voice coil daytons.

Thanks...when you say..." give up the extra 1 inch extras on dimensions", are you saying to build the box an inch bigger in height/width?  So 14"×14" and 9 deep up top and 13 deep on bottom?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks...when you say..." give up the extra 1 inch extras on dimensions", are you saying to build the box an inch bigger in height/width?  So 14"×14" and 9 deep up top and 13 deep on bottom?

yeah and you can do the 12

 

[JeeperVol]

yeah and you can do the 12

Ok...Will do.  Is home depot 7 layer baltic birch plywood ok?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ok...Will do.  Is home depot 7 layer baltic birch plywood ok?

home depot does not have baltic birch, its fake birch with a layer of veneer. its the same thing as the normal sanded pine plywood with a small layer of veneer on the outside to look pretty.  

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ok...Will do.  Is home depot 7 layer baltic birch plywood ok?

the normal ply is fine.  Dont pay attention to the gap scare earlier. Just make good cuts and make sure its fully sealed and you are good.  Buy like 2lbs of polyfill and stuff the box fully.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

to back up my claims... this is an in depth video with test measurements comparing the cheap china 7 layered pine vs MDF and the pine wins out on every category and test. 28:50 for strength and 35:00ish for acoustic dampening.

 

[JeeperVol]

2 hours ago, Jeffdachef said:

to back up my claims... this is an in depth video with test measurements comparing the cheap china 7 layered pine vs MDF and the pine wins out on every category and test. 28:50 for strength and 35:00ish for acoustic dampening.

This is really good stuff...thanks for sharing!  I'm going with the Dayton 12" dvc and am going to take the risk on the 7 yr old HD750/1 amp for $250 as long as it plays and doesn't smell burnt.  Worst case scenario...if it stops working a month later, JL Audio said they will rebuild it with new components for $250, which would put it at $500 and still $300 less than a $800 new one.  Attached are pics of the amp currently....it's scratched a bit and needs a nameplate and legs.  

Per your recommendation, I'm going to build a box 14" wide × 14" tall × 9" top depth & 14" bottom depth.  I added an extra inch at the bottom depth and total internal volume looks to be .90.  Can you send a cut sheet?  I'd like to add some 1"×2" internal bracing and 2"×2" triangular bracing to the edges so the box stays rigid.  I'm not sure how to brace the bigger back wall that will be about 14" ×16".  Thoughts on bracing?

My options for box material seem to be home depot and Lowe's if I want to pay $50 or less for wood.  My local lumber yards seem to have the same plywood as the big box stores.  The other option is 3/4" mdf...but that gets heavy.  Should I just go with 7 layer baltic birch veneer at home depot for $40 or try and find some 7 layer pine?  It seems like a waste of $ to online order 13 layer baltic birch for $100 bc I am going to put black carpet over it to match the interior.

Can you help with recommendations on buying:

-a good wire terminal to cutout on the box

-what speaker wire gauge from amp to sub terminal and from terminal to woofer

-black auto carpet

-adhesive to adhere the carpet to box

Thanks...this should be fun!

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

This is really good stuff...thanks for sharing!  I'm going with the Dayton 12" dvc and am going to take the risk on the 7 yr old HD750/1 amp for $250 as long as it plays and doesn't smell burnt.  Worst case scenario...if it stops working a month later, JL Audio said they will rebuild it with new components for $250, which would put it at $500 and still $300 less than a $800 new one.  Attached are pics of the amp currently....it's scratched a bit and needs a nameplate and legs.  

Per your recommendation, I'm going to build a box 14" wide × 14" tall × 9" top depth & 14" bottom depth.  I added an extra inch at the bottom depth and total internal volume looks to be .90.  Can you send a cut sheet?  I'd like to add some 1"×2" internal bracing and 2"×2" triangular bracing to the edges so the box stays rigid.  I'm not sure how to brace the bigger back wall that will be about 14" ×16".  Thoughts on bracing?

My options for box material seem to be home depot and Lowe's if I want to pay $50 or less for wood.  My local lumber yards seem to have the same plywood as the big box stores.  The other option is 3/4" mdf...but that gets heavy.  Should I just go with 7 layer baltic birch veneer at home depot for $40 or try and find some 7 layer pine?  It seems like a waste of $ to online order 13 layer baltic birch for $100 bc I am going to put black carpet over it to match the interior.

Can you help with recommendations on buying:

-a good wire terminal to cutout on the box

-what speaker wire gauge from amp to sub terminal and from terminal to woofer

-black auto carpet

-adhesive to adhere the carpet to box

Thanks...this should be fun!

You are fine with the sanded pine that costs the same as MDF and its the exact same thing as the so called "birch" from home depot but almost half the price.

 I dont think that HD 750.1 will fail anytime as long as you feed it proper current and not clip it. 

get 3m 90 spray adhesive from home depot. 

14-12 gauge speaker wire which should already be included in the amp kit you've bought.

poly fill is needed since after accounting for the space the subwoofer takes up you are .10 cubic feet short at .75 cubes net buuut, this polyfill will basically make it perfect sizing, usually gives a 10% increase to enclosure size so you should be right at what you need. Stuff the whole box till its almost full with decent room for the sub.

https://www.parts-express.com/acousta-stuf-polyfill-1-lb-bag-speaker-cabinet-sound-damping-material--260-317

carpet, choose whatever matches closest with your interior. Make sure you watch carpeting techniques on youtube i recommend videos from Car audio fabrication channel on youtube for a nice clean job

https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=carpet&sitesearch=true

terminals

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-round-speaker-wire-terminal-cup-2-15-16-gold-spring-loaded--260-276?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw0ZfoBRB4EiwASUMdYeY8dW_cccZ3jGnvEgEpfNv7jpZNettSZytEK_-FYY3E7zEDsrqPlxoCKQQQAvD_BwE

 

[JeeperVol]

You are fine with the sanded pine that costs the same as MDF and its the exact same thing as the so called "birch" from home depot but almost half the price.

 I dont think that HD 750.1 will fail anytime as long as you feed it proper current and not clip it. 

get 3m 90 spray adhesive from home depot. 

14-12 gauge speaker wire which should already be included in the amp kit you've bought.

poly fill is needed since after accounting for the space the subwoofer takes up you are .10 cubic feet short at .75 cubes net buuut, this polyfill will basically make it perfect sizing, usually gives a 10% increase to enclosure size so you should be right at what you need. Stuff the whole box till its almost full with decent room for the sub.

https://www.parts-express.com/acousta-stuf-polyfill-1-lb-bag-speaker-cabinet-sound-damping-material--260-317

carpet, choose whatever matches closest with your interior. Make sure you watch carpeting techniques on youtube i recommend videos from Car audio fabrication channel on youtube for a nice clean job

https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=carpet&sitesearch=true

terminals

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-round-speaker-wire-terminal-cup-2-15-16-gold-spring-loaded--260-276?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw0ZfoBRB4EiwASUMdYeY8dW_cccZ3jGnvEgEpfNv7jpZNettSZytEK_-FYY3E7zEDsrqPlxoCKQQQAvD_BwE

View attachment 5729

Thank you very much!  

 

[JeeperVol]

You are fine with the sanded pine that costs the same as MDF and its the exact same thing as the so called "birch" from home depot but almost half the price.

 I dont think that HD 750.1 will fail anytime as long as you feed it proper current and not clip it. 

get 3m 90 spray adhesive from home depot. 

14-12 gauge speaker wire which should already be included in the amp kit you've bought.

poly fill is needed since after accounting for the space the subwoofer takes up you are .10 cubic feet short at .75 cubes net buuut, this polyfill will basically make it perfect sizing, usually gives a 10% increase to enclosure size so you should be right at what you need. Stuff the whole box till its almost full with decent room for the sub.

https://www.parts-express.com/acousta-stuf-polyfill-1-lb-bag-speaker-cabinet-sound-damping-material--260-317

carpet, choose whatever matches closest with your interior. Make sure you watch carpeting techniques on youtube i recommend videos from Car audio fabrication channel on youtube for a nice clean job

https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=carpet&sitesearch=true

terminals

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-round-speaker-wire-terminal-cup-2-15-16-gold-spring-loaded--260-276?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw0ZfoBRB4EiwASUMdYeY8dW_cccZ3jGnvEgEpfNv7jpZNettSZytEK_-FYY3E7zEDsrqPlxoCKQQQAvD_BwE

View attachment 5729

Bummer...after a 7 day ebay auction, my 9 month old jl 8" powered sub didn't get any bids at $275 + $20 for shipping...also have had it for sale on Craiglist for the last week.  I watched those taramps youtube videos...the MD1800 produced 2476 watts at 2ohms...crazy power.  However it was drawing 250+ volts and I doubt my stock battery/alternator can push anywhere near that with my Alpine 4 channel amp(85watt RMS × 4 at 4 ohms or 125watt × 4 at 2 ohms) with (2)30Amp fuses.  Does that mean the Alpine draws up to 30amps or do you double the fuses Amps and it draws 60amps?

The Taramps seems overkill for a daily driver who doesn't compete or care about being really loud.  How would it compare to the hd750 in terms of sound quality and power consumption? 

I found out my jl audio rbc-1 bass knob isnt compatible with the hd750/1 and I would have to buy another knob kit for $40.  I'm looking at the Taramps or the jl jx1000(will work with my bass knob)

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Bummer...after a 7 day ebay auction, my 9 month old jl 8" powered sub didn't get any bids at $275 + $20 for shipping...also have had it for sale on Craiglist for the last week.  I watched those taramps youtube videos...the MD1800 produced 2476 watts at 2ohms...crazy power.  However it was drawing 250+ volts and I doubt my stock battery/alternator can push anywhere near that with my Alpine 4 channel amp(85watt RMS × 4 at 4 ohms or 125watt × 4 at 2 ohms) with (2)30Amp fuses.  Does that mean the Alpine draws up to 30amps or do you double the fuses Amps and it draws 60amps?

The Taramps seems overkill for a daily driver who doesn't compete or care about being really loud.  How would it compare to the hd750 in terms of sound quality and power consumption? 

I found out my jl audio rbc-1 bass knob isnt compatible with the hd750/1 and I would have to buy another knob kit for $40.  I'm looking at the Taramps or the jl jx1000(will work with my bass knob)

uhm bro how many times do I need to tell you that you are not going to be consuming anywhere near the amount of electrical power thats inside that video? 

How many times did I say that you can set however many watts you need just to get your dayton to play loud and sound good? 

just because you have 2400 watts doesnt mean you use all of it

Those tests are on a -0 db test tone thats pure 100% bass notes with no stopping.  While music is on and off bass hits with rests and the DB levels are around -10 ish  What that means is you are literally drawing next to nothing in actual power consumption.

I think i said all this literally 3 times in the thread but it flew over your head all 3 times.

Stop all this theoretical amp draw BS because whatever you think on paper is completely different from what actually happens in the real world system install. This is why I urge you to get a voltage meter to monitor car voltages which is 10000000000000x more effective then doing these amperage calculations which literally do nothing.