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Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Best Port Tuning = (SPL).
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<blockquote data-quote="winkychevelle" data-source="post: 8821221" data-attributes="member: 611804"><p>These days power is cheap thus you have subs like you DD 700 designed to take 1500w daily. They add tight suspension with a large coil. </p><p></p><p>Wasn't that long ago late 90 early 2000s that tc sounds was making the tc3 a 3inch coiled motor that was only 1000w rms but was consequently a soft suspension. </p><p></p><p>Which was better? Really that's debatable. Remember alot of these bassheads are from the older era and have fond memories of old setups. We're those old set ups bad? I doubt it but are the new setups any better or worse? </p><p></p><p>Personally I try and build around 2kw or less for subs and 1500w or less for highs. That's around 300amps of current draw. Anything more and electrical upgrades get extremely costly.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="winkychevelle, post: 8821221, member: 611804"] These days power is cheap thus you have subs like you DD 700 designed to take 1500w daily. They add tight suspension with a large coil. Wasn't that long ago late 90 early 2000s that tc sounds was making the tc3 a 3inch coiled motor that was only 1000w rms but was consequently a soft suspension. Which was better? Really that's debatable. Remember alot of these bassheads are from the older era and have fond memories of old setups. We're those old set ups bad? I doubt it but are the new setups any better or worse? Personally I try and build around 2kw or less for subs and 1500w or less for highs. That's around 300amps of current draw. Anything more and electrical upgrades get extremely costly. [/QUOTE]
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Best Port Tuning = (SPL).
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