Future Stereo Build

  • 1
    Participant count
  • Participants list

bubbatrucklover

CarAudio.com Newbie
1
0
I am currently building a "virtual stereo system" in that I am 6 months to possibly a year out from this. (Aside from life's day to day expenses my truck NEEDS much more immediate maintenance and other preventative maintenance upgrades UNLESS Fosgate, Crutchfield etc. wants to sponsor me
laughing1.gif
). I realize that products could/will be discontinued and this is based on current availability. I have been out of the aftermarket stereo game for YEARS so technology has changed and even though my stereo (s) could somewhat hold a candle to some of the setups today, MANY improvements have been made.To start with the basics I have an '02 Silverado Extended cab. I have some off road lights that will be re hooked up at some point and I have twin electric fans off an '05 Silvy. (they are triggered by a temp switch and relays at some point I want to set it up with "factory" relays and flash the ECM so it increases idle when both kick in high but, junk yard availability is sparce. We have a ton of them but, EVERYONE pics them clean of the same thing (s) I'm looking for so new/ebay _____ at some point) I have a dual battery set up with a 250 Amp Pro Mariner Pro Iso Charge Battery Isolator and a 250 amp alt. Also (semi relevant) EVERY THING but, the floor has road blocker sound deadening (and the floor will eventually too.) OBVIOUSLY I will need a new head unit FIRST but, when I got the truck the speakers were shot so I replaced them with some Rockford Fosgate Power T1652-S 6.5-Inch Component Speaker System (100 watt RMS) [have since been discontinued]. I put them in the front AND rear doors and was gonna hook them to a Rockford Fosgate R400-4D Prime 400 Watt Full Range Class-D 4-Channel Amplifier (75 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohm) then add a pair of Rockford Fosgate R2D4-12 Prime R2 DVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch (250 Watts RMS) in an under seat custom box hooked to a Rockford Fosgate R400-4D Prime 400 Watt Full Range Class-D 4-Channel Amplifier (200 Watts RMS x 2 @ 4-Ohm Bridged).While looking at some other stereo builds it triggered some ideas which led to some creativity of my own fused with theirs. For starters I plan on leaving the speakers in the doors "as is" hooked to the aforementioned amp. Then add a pair of Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8 Punch Pro Single 8" (4-Ohm mid-woofer 125 Watts RMS) one in each rear door hooked to a Rockford Fosgate R250X4 Prime 4-Channel Amplifier (125 Watts RMS x 2 @ 4-Ohms Bridged). Keep in mind I have to see if it will fit in the area I want and I'm playing with the need of a recessed box OR add some baffling (?) to separate part of the door in to one of sorts. I do have SOME concerns of having a mid-woofer in a door that has a "movable" window.Now I'm pretty sure that the above will satisfy my need to have aftermarket as opposed to factory. HOWEVER I started kicking around the idea of adding the following (also understanding I need to re check the front door for placement):I thought of moving the other 2 component speakers to the front then adding 2 pair (one pair each rear door) of Rockford Fosgate P1675 6.75" 240W 3 Way (4 ohm 60 watt RMS) hooked to a Rockford Fosgate R300X4 Prime 4-Channel Amplifier (50 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohm) and from part of the original setup a pair of Rockford Fosgate R2 Ultra Shallow 12-Inch 4 Ohm DVC Subwoofer (200 Watt RMS) hooked to Rockford Fosgate R400-4D Prime 400 Watt Full Range Class-D 4-Channel Amplifier.Now I'm from the old school train of thought that if it's to loud YOUR to old 
peace.gif
 HOWEVER I also know there are budget constraints and physical limitations as you get to be and old man. 
sad72.gif
 I also realize I have an extended cab NOT a van.HOWEVER if I decide to go "all in" I'd be looking at a total average current draw of 95 Amps and a total max. current draw of 190 amps (I'm NOT 100% sure if this a LITERAL subtraction of the alternator's total output ) . I have done some research in that capacitors are a placebo UNLESS you have an additional battery AND a bigger alt. and have thoughts of adding one. (I believe it's a farrad up to 1,000 watt which should cover the 2 sub amps)I am far from an audiophile. I believe a "great" stereo should be able to play Bach OR Mötley Crüe. 
headbang.gif
I believe the near perfect song to test a stereo is the collaboration between the Scorpions and the Berlin Phil Harmonic "Hurricane 2000".I would appreciate any thoughts and insight as to if my speaker/amp pairing is correct and if my alt/aux battery is sufficient. Thanks in advance. 
cheers.gif


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

I combine the fuse ratings of both amps and use that at the battery with the appropriate size wire and if an amp doesn have onboard fuses I will...
5
2K
Sub should be in the cargo area for best results. I'm skeptical about those unknown brand Chinese head units myself and would stick to known...
3
2K
Also use the Orange wire. It will be constant 12v. Yes, you can bi-amp your co-axials. You just separate the tweeter wires ftom the terminals and...
1
107
There is a good chance you could add some sort of Bluetooth or AUX input to a vintage stereo such as a 1978 Pioneer, maybe with a separate toggle...
5
374
If you buy a replacement OEM Radio Harness the colors will match up then you can use a wiring harness to connect to that. According to a few...
1
305

About this thread

bubbatrucklover

CarAudio.com Newbie
Thread starter
bubbatrucklover
Joined
Location
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
0
Views
590
Last reply date
Last reply from
bubbatrucklover
DD451980-D607-41AB-B69C-6745AAE4B848.jpeg

SlugButter

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
F98C6D78-7734-4659-9FCA-34969BDDC56A.jpeg

SlugButter

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top