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<blockquote data-quote="Bumpin&#039; Yota" data-source="post: 489413" data-attributes="member: 547455"><p>First measure everything. Realise you may have to actually build the box for the wall inside of the vehicle. If you have to do this, anchor what loyd calls a 'dance floor' The Dance Floor is just some MDF securely anchored to the floor of the vehicle, or where the floor of the box will be. It is on top of this dance floor where you will assemble the box for your wall. Having the dance floor inplace allows you to rotate and move the big box around easily to screw and glue everything together.</p><p></p><p>Typically, your box will be completely assembled save the face of it. (Double layer your box or triple it if you are worried about flex - recommended for anything over 10cubes.)</p><p></p><p>Once the 5 sides are together and dried, secure this box to the dance floor/car.</p><p></p><p>Since your box is 1.5-2.25" thick, you now have room to have an interchangable face, yet still keep that facia around the boxface to keep the rest of the car sealed off. You can use Lag Bolts to secure the face to the box. (Lag bolts are the very coarsely threaded bolts that screw into a lead sinker. The lead sinker is placed inside a hole and as the lag bolt screws into the sinker the sinker expands. You'll need 2.25" minimum for this to work.... 3" - 4.25" would be preferable)</p><p></p><p>For the facia around the face plate, I'd HIGHLY recommend buying a contour gauge so you can draw a line perfectly identicle to your interior. I'd also recommend carpeting the facia pieces unless you are after SPL only....</p><p></p><p>Make your port VERY sturdy and thick!! If the port is ~3" thick, you can place a 3" PVC 1/2 pipe at the end to reduce turbulence...</p><p></p><p>Remember the port is the point of TREMENDOUS acoustical pressure where spl will exceed 170dB.... 170dB at 40-50hz WILL <strong>shear</strong> drywall screws with EASE, so make sure the port is STURDY!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Bumpin' Yota, post: 489413, member: 547455"] First measure everything. Realise you may have to actually build the box for the wall inside of the vehicle. If you have to do this, anchor what loyd calls a 'dance floor' The Dance Floor is just some MDF securely anchored to the floor of the vehicle, or where the floor of the box will be. It is on top of this dance floor where you will assemble the box for your wall. Having the dance floor inplace allows you to rotate and move the big box around easily to screw and glue everything together. Typically, your box will be completely assembled save the face of it. (Double layer your box or triple it if you are worried about flex - recommended for anything over 10cubes.) Once the 5 sides are together and dried, secure this box to the dance floor/car. Since your box is 1.5-2.25" thick, you now have room to have an interchangable face, yet still keep that facia around the boxface to keep the rest of the car sealed off. You can use Lag Bolts to secure the face to the box. (Lag bolts are the very coarsely threaded bolts that screw into a lead sinker. The lead sinker is placed inside a hole and as the lag bolt screws into the sinker the sinker expands. You'll need 2.25" minimum for this to work.... 3" - 4.25" would be preferable) For the facia around the face plate, I'd HIGHLY recommend buying a contour gauge so you can draw a line perfectly identicle to your interior. I'd also recommend carpeting the facia pieces unless you are after SPL only.... Make your port VERY sturdy and thick!! If the port is ~3" thick, you can place a 3" PVC 1/2 pipe at the end to reduce turbulence... Remember the port is the point of TREMENDOUS acoustical pressure where spl will exceed 170dB.... 170dB at 40-50hz WILL [B]shear[/B] drywall screws with EASE, so make sure the port is STURDY! [/QUOTE]
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