How to properly make a ground!!!!!

this is supposely lots of bad info. in regards to running a ground length. i will say this. the - on the battery is not the ground. the ground in and of itself if the whole car in the miss meaning mostly the chassis and frame.
so if u run a ground run throughout ur car. make sure u upgrade you battery - to frame negative connection with larger wire.
wat?

 
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Any ideas please post and let me know //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
ohhh sweeet dude pokemon....

 
I don't know if this has been mentioned but a factory bolt is NOT a good ground. Using the bolt will add resistance to the ground possibly adding noise and will most likely not be as secure as using self tappers.

Also, you should add to the original post a "Look twice, drill once" ALWAYS, ALWAYS look under the car at where the gas tank is to determine if your screw will come near it. On many mid 90's GMS's and Lincolns the gas tank is pressed RIGHT up against the trunk/backseat area.

And, do not use just a self tapper, use a self tapper and a star washer, this will prevent it from coming loose. The method I use though is to use three self tap screws. One through the ring terminal, one on the right, and one on the left pinching the ring terminal down.

Finally, you should mention the ground should be as short as possible (18 inches at most) and matching gauge to the power wire.

 
ok now after reading that and using google images to find out what everything was.. i know how to make a ground.. but what is the point of grounding.. why do i need to do it during installation

yes im an electrical noob.

 
Well the grounding to the - side of the battery is the BEST ground. It will always be better than ANY sanded metal. Because when you attach that wire to the frame...guess where it ends up. Thats right, the - side of the battery. So might as well skip all the frame and just use nice thick dedicated wire for your ground. Of course, its no miracle worker, but going from a shitty ground to a superior ground can make some difference.
Old post, I know, but to help newbies it is HIGHLY vehicle dependent. Some vehicles are fine by running a ground somewhere in the trunk, it's hard to tell what would be best, whether from the trunk or the negative battery terminal under the hood. Only way to tell is to measure voltage drop at each location.

Reason why it is vehicle dependent is because there may be paint, plastic parts and whatnot that are attached directly to the chassis. In some vehicles, that is not the case, in which it would be wiser to run the ground in the trunk since you save money by not having to buy 13+ ft of wire.

 
when all else fails you can always go to the seat belt bolt or to the battery. you already know they go directly to the frame.

work smarter, not harder. that doesn't require being mecp certified for that, just common sense.

 
when all else fails you can always go to the seat belt bolt or to the battery. you already know they go directly to the frame.
work smarter, not harder. that doesn't require being mecp certified for that, just common sense.
Please see post #48

 
I just checked my ground in the rear with my DMM. im getting 0.1ohm with the way i have it set up now (1 run of positive only to the rear batts)...

but.. i used a spare piece of 2/0 and used it as a temporary ground from front to rear (so 1 positive run, and 1 negative run now) and i measured it again at the rear batts, and its measuring -0.1ohm (negative 0.1ohm). is that correct? i thought 0 was the lowest.

heres a pic of what i did,

first one is how i have it setup permanently, second is what i tried temporarily:

aaa-3.jpg


is -0.1ohm better than 0.1ohm for a ground?

 
Its the same thing, its your meter acting odd, it probably initialized differently than before.

Or you switched the way your leads were measuring the resistance.

A DC resistance has no polarity so there is no +/- Measurment.

 
the -.1 and .1 are the same. u crossed the red and black leads somehow either at the multimeter or at the source point.

Or ur multimeter is running low on batts and is acting funny

 
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