Old new fart

I think Obama even gave out smart phones to people on welfare  a few years ago iirr. Idk I'd Google it but 5 star just released a new video. I have more studying to do 

 
Imagine what I would have got here if I actually asked a question. LOL

If you care I already upgraded my system with all new speakers and a JL Audio 6 channel amp. I posted a question elsewhere and I want to accomplish two things;

1. secondary source of music input from a DAP.

2. Some sound processing capabilities to mostly deal with the higher (tweeter) frequencies.

 
Imagine what I would have got here if I actually asked a question. LOL

If you care I already upgraded my system with all new speakers and a JL Audio 6 channel amp. I posted a question elsewhere and I want to accomplish two things;

1. secondary source of music input from a DAP.

2. Some sound processing capabilities to mostly deal with the higher (tweeter) frequencies.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-408-4x8-dsp-digital-signal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio--230-500

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-bt40-bluetooth-data-and-streaming-usb-interface-for-dsp-408--230-502

before i was rudely interrupted by the other A-hole

 
Imagine what I would have got here if I actually asked a question. LOL

If you care I already upgraded my system with all new speakers and a JL Audio 6 channel amp. I posted a question elsewhere and I want to accomplish two things;

1. secondary source of music input from a DAP.

2. Some sound processing capabilities to mostly deal with the higher (tweeter) frequencies.
@Jeffdachef knows what he is talking about and I completely agree with him. Do what he suggested and you won't be disappointed. 

 
Thanks for the info - one question, if my h/u has fronts, rears and subs (6 rca's in all) which ones go into the processor? F & R only. Do I keep the sub as is in the amp or do I replace that with the 5/6 line outs from the processor?

One more ?, does the Bluetooth input override what is being fed by the line in's? Is that switchable from the app or an automatic thing?

 
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Thanks for the info - one question, if my h/u has fronts, rears and subs (6 rca's in all) which ones go into the processor? F & R only. Do I keep the sub as is in the amp or do I replace that with the 5/6 line outs from the processor?

One more ?, does the Bluetooth input override what is being fed by the line in's? Is that switchable from the app or an automatic thing?
You want to get signal before the factory amp if possible but when you do that, you are still subjected to the horrible sound quality of your stock head unit, nothing is going to save you from that. With the bluetooth dongle install you are literally just skipping your head unit completely and just playing music straight to the sound processor which literally becomes your new head unit that you can tuck away someplace hidden and you'll get the cleanest possible signal.

If you compare it to hard wired to your stock head unit, there's literally no comparison, one will sound like complete sh*t that no amount of audio tuning and fix while the other just sounds amazing even before you do any audio adjustments off the bat and it sounds even better with a good tune. All your audio options and control is done on the phone.  Download the dayton dsp app on the apple store or google playstore and play around to see what kind of audio tuning features you get with it. 

But you can hard wire it with high level speaker outputs from the front and rear or front and sub to get a full range signal from the stock head unit to the DSP and compare it yourself to just playing music straight to  the bluetooth dongle. Its pretty easy to switch between the two. To play through your head unit, just play music on your head unit.  To play bluetooth, dont play anything on the head unit and pair to the dsp via bluetooth and connect to the dsp on the dayton app as well and viola you can play bluetooth. (if you have a samsung phone 8 generation or higher phone that can connect to two bluetooth devices at once, you'll need to forget the stock head unit's bluetooth on your phone)

If you have the JL 6 channel, it will be channels 1 and 2 for tweeters, 3 and 4 for midbass. 5 and 6 full range for rears(or dont do any rears at all and focus all power onto the fronts by bridging the amp for the mids alone. Thats how modern SQ competition cars do it nowadays because any rear speaker destroys the soundstage and center image.   Then 7 and 8 for subwoofer. You'll want a seperate monoblock amp for the subwoofer.  You definitely want to focus all your money and power to the front stage if what you looking for is killer sound quality.

 
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@Jeffdachef knows what he is talking about and I completely agree with him. Do what he suggested and you won't be disappointed. 
Exactly! Jeff takes his own time out each and every day to help all of us out because he likes to see people here get the setup right the 1st time and not have to re-do the setup once again wasting money. Jeff is correct top to bottom and as Slo_Ride said you won't be disappointed.

 
If you have the JL 6 channel, it will be channels 1 and 2 for tweeters, 3 and 4 for midbass. 5 and 6 full range for rears(or dont do any rears at all and focus all power onto the fronts by bridging the amp for the mids alone. Thats how modern SQ competition cars do it nowadays because any rear speaker destroys the soundstage and center image.   Then 7 and 8 for subwoofer. You'll want a seperate monoblock amp for the subwoofer.  You definitely want to focus all your money and power to the front stage if what you looking for is killer sound quality.
Very informative post, thank you again. Just for clarification, the MINI sends the signal to the front door speakers with some kind of in-line crossover which then feeds the tweeters. The rears are the same set up. The under seats aren't really true sub woofers, but they provide enough bass for my liking so I don't really need to amp them separately.

Probably will give this all a try, rather inexpensive way to go. Sounds like you think this would work better than the JL TWK-88 ?

 
Very informative post, thank you again. Just for clarification, the MINI sends the signal to the front door speakers with some kind of in-line crossover which then feeds the tweeters. The rears are the same set up. The under seats aren't really true sub woofers, but they provide enough bass for my liking so I don't really need to amp them separately.

Probably will give this all a try, rather inexpensive way to go. Sounds like you think this would work better than the JL TWK-88 ?
if you do the bluetooth mode it will sound better.  If you to do the hi level outputs, it wont be better than the twk because it does not de-equalize the signal

You need to tap into the signal before the inline crossovers.

I said seperate monoblock because if you plan on using the stock factory woofer, its not gonna work with bluetooth mode becuase there's no signal line from the dsp to the factory sub amp.  It'll only work when playing music from the head unit. 

 
The company that makes and sells the harness I used to install my JL 6 channel amp was unfamiliar with the Dayton DSP, but he warned me that I need to use a DSP that has balanced inputs. Can't find the details of this, but don't see anywhere on Dayton info if the DSP accepts balanced or not. Any thoughts? 

 
The company that makes and sells the harness I used to install my JL 6 channel amp was unfamiliar with the Dayton DSP, but he warned me that I need to use a DSP that has balanced inputs. Can't find the details of this, but don't see anywhere on Dayton info if the DSP accepts balanced or not. Any thoughts? 
Its because all DSPs do that. IDK why they even brought it up so dumb haha.

 
Took your advice and bought the Dayton. Sounds excellent. Used a local certified installer to handle that and some other items on my checklist. Thanks for the suggestions.

 
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