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Orion HCCA3000.1DSPLX Power
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<blockquote data-quote="TheBigPilferer" data-source="post: 8863668" data-attributes="member: 690294"><p>Are you using this for competition? If you are, then I would use Knu Konceptz 4/0 gauge (if your battery is located in the front) ran to the rear of the vehicle. Instead of a traditional fused distribution block, you will need to use something like the SMD bus-bar style fuse blocks where you terminate with brass ring terminals. You'll need one that is 3 wide. This fuse block will be a solid bar on the input side and have 3 separate connection points on the other side.</p><p></p><p>I should add that you will need a larger fuse up front within 18" off the battery. </p><p></p><p>You will want a wider fuse block if you intend on powering more than just this 1 amp. You will then use 3 0 gauge runs to go to the 3 amp inputs. I would use 3 200 amp ANL fuses.</p><p></p><p>For the grounds, I would run 3 0 gauge runs to a similar styled bus bar, except minus the fuses and the 2nd bar on the other side. Then I would terminate to the chassis with 4/0. I like using ground blocks bc it makes it easier to ground additional or future amps, plus you minimize the chance of ground loops by not using multiple chassis ground points.</p><p></p><p>-----------------------</p><p></p><p>If your battery is in the rear (or you have a 2nd battery or lithium etc) and you don't have any other amps to hook up, I would probably just run 3 separate 0 gauge runs to the amp.</p><p></p><p>Depending on your battery terminals, it might be easier (and tidier) to still use the first method. I'm also suspecting that if you're using this particular amplifier, then you're highly likely to have additional amps for your door speakers or be wanting to add them in the future.</p><p></p><p>Orion put 3 power/grounds on the amp to make 100% sure that this amp is not bottlenecked in the power supply during an SPL run. More surface area is always better, and in theory this should get more juice into the power supply faster. This is why you'll see lots of guys with 3000 watt amps that have a single input using the dual input adapters that let you double up the wiring. It certainly can't hurt.</p><p></p><p>With that said, 3 0 gauge inputs is mathematically not necessary and Knu Konceptz rates their oversized 0 gauge at 300 amps continuous. Still, I would use all 3. More/thicker wire means less resistance which means less power lost. I doubt you'd spend the coin for the best Orion amplifier if you did not care about this. Orion probably anticipates that the SPL crowd will wire to the dirt (wiring subs to .5 or even .25 ohms).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TheBigPilferer, post: 8863668, member: 690294"] Are you using this for competition? If you are, then I would use Knu Konceptz 4/0 gauge (if your battery is located in the front) ran to the rear of the vehicle. Instead of a traditional fused distribution block, you will need to use something like the SMD bus-bar style fuse blocks where you terminate with brass ring terminals. You'll need one that is 3 wide. This fuse block will be a solid bar on the input side and have 3 separate connection points on the other side. I should add that you will need a larger fuse up front within 18" off the battery. You will want a wider fuse block if you intend on powering more than just this 1 amp. You will then use 3 0 gauge runs to go to the 3 amp inputs. I would use 3 200 amp ANL fuses. For the grounds, I would run 3 0 gauge runs to a similar styled bus bar, except minus the fuses and the 2nd bar on the other side. Then I would terminate to the chassis with 4/0. I like using ground blocks bc it makes it easier to ground additional or future amps, plus you minimize the chance of ground loops by not using multiple chassis ground points. ----------------------- If your battery is in the rear (or you have a 2nd battery or lithium etc) and you don't have any other amps to hook up, I would probably just run 3 separate 0 gauge runs to the amp. Depending on your battery terminals, it might be easier (and tidier) to still use the first method. I'm also suspecting that if you're using this particular amplifier, then you're highly likely to have additional amps for your door speakers or be wanting to add them in the future. Orion put 3 power/grounds on the amp to make 100% sure that this amp is not bottlenecked in the power supply during an SPL run. More surface area is always better, and in theory this should get more juice into the power supply faster. This is why you'll see lots of guys with 3000 watt amps that have a single input using the dual input adapters that let you double up the wiring. It certainly can't hurt. With that said, 3 0 gauge inputs is mathematically not necessary and Knu Konceptz rates their oversized 0 gauge at 300 amps continuous. Still, I would use all 3. More/thicker wire means less resistance which means less power lost. I doubt you'd spend the coin for the best Orion amplifier if you did not care about this. Orion probably anticipates that the SPL crowd will wire to the dirt (wiring subs to .5 or even .25 ohms). [/QUOTE]
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