Speaker FAQ

[PESteele 10+ year member]

anyone

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

anyone

Seriously...are you aware of the search fuction??? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/search.gif.e79a63b2b580b39b282dff402646b704.gif

 

[KaPPaBaLL 10+ year member]

learned a lot just by reading few paragraphs.. thanks a lot.

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

http://www.passivecrossovers.com/#index

Going 'active'

A further improvement is the use of active crossovers. Unlike passive crossovers which are situated between the amplifier and the 'speaker drive-units, the active version is placed between the output of the preamplier and the input of the power amplifier.

Active set-up

Adding active crossovers is even better.

One of the major benefits of active crossovers is that the amplifier has more direct control over the 'speaker drive-unit and can therefore control it more accurately. Think of it like this. If you (the amplifier) sit in the back of your car giving directions to a chauffeur (the crossover), who is driving the car (the drive-unit), you may get on fine at slow speeds, relaying your instructions, but if you were in a race, it would be much better for you to have (direct) control of the car yourself. Click HERE for a fuller explanation of active crossovers.

Changing from passive to active control of your 'speakers will involve the following:

* A separation of the preamplifier and power amplifier stages. If you currently use an integrated amplifier you will need to know where the circuit for the preamplier joins the power amplifier section.

* One or more extra power amplifiers (you need one mono power amp channel per drive-unit ie one stereo power amplifier will drive two drive-units) These amplifiers need to have an identical specification as regards gain.

* An active filter (crossover) circuit. You can either build one from scratch, from a kit or buy one ready built.

* The removal (or disconnection) of the passive crossovers.

* The possible alteration of the cabinet size and port tuning.

I am a very big fan of active crossovers, having experienced the improvements they bring. Once you have an active crossover, it is also much easier to alter it to suit different 'speaker configurations than it is with a passive crossover.

On the negative side, an active system costs more than a passive set-up due to the cost of the extra amplification. However, as sound quality is our ultimate goal, I feel that this extra expense is well worth it. And remember that building your own amplification will keep the cost down. See the Build your own section for links to some of the good amplifier kits available.

There's only one thing better for 'speakers than an active crossover, and that is no crossover as I have discovered with my most recent 'speaker project which utilises some full-range drivers. (Click Here for details) However, even full-range 'speakers aren't perfect, often needing another unit to 'help' them cover the full frequency range.

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

that was copy/pasted

 

[jacka 10+ year member]

can you explain sensitivity of a component set? i know its not used to compare loudness, but i'm trying to understand what it is. also i don't get the 2.83 V/ 1m or the 1 W/ 1 M spec.

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=73962&PN=1

Good reading.

 

[ndnbolla 10+ year member]

I have a question about the crossover connections.

I understand the tweeter attenuations (sp?) of 0db, -3b, and -6db which can be changed (usually inside the crossover) to you specific needs.

However I have a question regarding the terminals of the crossover, specifically the tweeters'. In my case, I have Rainbow SLC crossovers where the tweeter can be connected to a the - but then either a 0db + or a 3db +.

Which + terminal should be connected in what situations?

EDIT: NM... I guess the + terminal for the tweeter just adds another degree to it's attenuation where it depends on the proximity of where the mid is located.

 

[lil azn 06 10+ year member]

If my Profi Kickbass are rated at 80 hz to 25khz, where would i set the crossover points at? (active)

Currently i configured my HU for 80 hz-2.5 khz for the mids then 2.5 khz for the tweets.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

If my Profi Kickbass are rated at 80 hz to 25khz, where would i set the crossover points at? (active)
Currently i configured my HU for 80 hz-2.5 khz for the mids then 2.5 khz for the tweets.

Too many factors to answer this over the internet.

Your best bet would be to start at the passive xover's frequencies and slopes, and then begin adjusting from there. Atleast then you'll have a target starting point to work from.

Would be a big help if you could find an RTA to to use when adjusting the xover point/slope aswell.

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

Good info guys thank you.

very useful

 

[Bossmaan]

I have a Question...i've done this setup recently, only for testing purposes..I'm just wondering if there's a potential for any harm...this setup is in a 2003 camry

I have the RF162C components..it comes with 2 sets of tweeters..i will be putting 1 pair in the door, and the other pair in the A-pillar soon enough...I have 3 1/2 inch speakers in the Top dash..I have a RF T4004 amp for the speakers..speakers and what not will be upgraded later to get the full potential of the amp..

what I have done now to only test is and this is where I need feedback, I left both the tweeter sets in the door, and I wired the 3 1/2 inch stock speakers to the 'speaker' jack of the crossover...they seem to sound nice but i'm not sure if this causes any harm to crossover or the whole set...I've tried wiring it to the Tweeter ports, along with the current tweeters..it sounds alright but the highs get ridiculous, so I changed that...so is there a potential for damage to the components or overloading my crossover...

my sub sub is set at 80hz (LP)... I'm wondering if i should set the crossover on the amp to all pass, low pass or High pass for the component set and the rear speakers..right now I've set my components to HP at 90hz, and rear speakers to AP 80...I've been busy so I havent had more than half an hour to spend on tuning, because I JUST put the amp in..so this is kind of half assed settings...

I will be disconnecting the 3 1/2 inch speakers like originally planned, and just have a set of tweeters in the A pillar, and tune everything properly...unless you guys suggest not to disconnect em..

sorry i'm kind of all over the place..i **** at explaining //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[krisfnbz 10+ year member]

I love speakers!

 

[Angry Negro]

Anyone care to explain what it means to "phase" your speakers or "reverse phase" and how it is done? Benefits?

 

[atownbudzz]

I have a question about Coaxial 6x9 speakers. I have 2 6x9 kicker ds650 and i have them hooked up to my amp. Everytime i push on the gas to my car a whistling nose comes out of the speakers. I dont no why and need to no how to fix it