Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Stock Amp on 2001 Chevy Suburban
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="HardofWhoring" data-source="post: 8859968" data-attributes="member: 674149"><p>The factory amp is junk, and you should just get rid of and run new wire from your new head unit. </p><p></p><p>Your amp is going to have two wires that matter, and you need to know which is which. You have your main power feed wire. This sends all the power to the amp. I THINK it's going to be yellow for battery voltage/batt pos. It should also be the thickest wire of the bunch. </p><p>Then you have your remote turn on. It's a switch wire. If the power wire is your plug in on your tv. The remote turn on is, your ..... remote (control's) turn on (/power button). It acts as a switch wire, and turns the amp on. They are connected to the head unit's blue with white stripe wire. THE ONLY PROBLEM I SEE: Is they are very small circuits in there. Those turn ons are generally only capable of handling about 500mv. Your 20+ year old factory budget (junk) amp MIGHT have a switch that draws more than that. You can run a jumper wire to any 12v source and test if that's your turn on. </p><p></p><p>So the thing is, many head units these days have more wattage output than those amps. I swear those amps are only like 17w per channel, and it might not even be at 4ohm. There's a good chance your head unit can do more than cheap 20 year old factory amp, that's designed for those basic factory speakers. If you draw more power than that circuit handle, you will ruin your head unit. Do you want to ruin it for less power? </p><p></p><p>What's the RMS wattage per channel on your head unit? Head unit model? Do you have aftermarket door speakers, (if not, will you?).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="HardofWhoring, post: 8859968, member: 674149"] The factory amp is junk, and you should just get rid of and run new wire from your new head unit. Your amp is going to have two wires that matter, and you need to know which is which. You have your main power feed wire. This sends all the power to the amp. I THINK it's going to be yellow for battery voltage/batt pos. It should also be the thickest wire of the bunch. Then you have your remote turn on. It's a switch wire. If the power wire is your plug in on your tv. The remote turn on is, your ..... remote (control's) turn on (/power button). It acts as a switch wire, and turns the amp on. They are connected to the head unit's blue with white stripe wire. THE ONLY PROBLEM I SEE: Is they are very small circuits in there. Those turn ons are generally only capable of handling about 500mv. Your 20+ year old factory budget (junk) amp MIGHT have a switch that draws more than that. You can run a jumper wire to any 12v source and test if that's your turn on. So the thing is, many head units these days have more wattage output than those amps. I swear those amps are only like 17w per channel, and it might not even be at 4ohm. There's a good chance your head unit can do more than cheap 20 year old factory amp, that's designed for those basic factory speakers. If you draw more power than that circuit handle, you will ruin your head unit. Do you want to ruin it for less power? What's the RMS wattage per channel on your head unit? Head unit model? Do you have aftermarket door speakers, (if not, will you?). [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Stock Amp on 2001 Chevy Suburban
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh