Thoughts on this "high powered" head unit?

[4BangerStanger]

I'm thinking of picking this guy up when it comes out, as long as it's not too pricey.

https://www.sony.com/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/xav-ax7000/specifications

I really like the clean, simple look of the 5000, but figured upgrading to the 7000 would allow me to run my front speakers without an all. I drive a 2015 and space is pretty limited. Plus, the 7000 has higher voltage pre amp outputs. I know you guys are all going to tell me to just buy a 4 channel amp, but I'd rather not. I'll just be running a set of 6.5" components. So, I'm actually considering running the tweeters off two channels and the mids off the other two, if that's even doable. 

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm thinking of picking this guy up when it comes out, as long as it's not too pricey.

https://www.sony.com/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/xav-ax7000/specifications

I really like the clean, simple look of the 5000, but figured upgrading to the 7000 would allow me to run my front speakers without an all. I drive a 2015 and space is pretty limited. Plus, the 7000 has higher voltage pre amp outputs. I know you guys are all going to tell me to just buy a 4 channel amp, but I'd rather not. I'll just be running a set of 6.5" components. So, I'm actually considering running the tweeters off two channels and the mids off the other two, if that's even doable. 

unless the crossover on the components says bi-amp capable, what you plan on doing will not work because the head unit is not active capable so you cant just wire the tweeter and mid straight without a crossover. 

Also that sony at best does 40 watts rms not the advertised 100 so you are still severely underpowered. You can literally buy a 200 dollar pioneer double din and a mini amp that fits to the rear of the head unit/glove box, underneath steering wheel, by kick panels etc... for the same price and you'll have way better results.

There's no reason to even factor in the pre-amp outputs if you arent even going to add an amplified setup.

 

[4BangerStanger]

unless the crossover on the components says bi-amp capable, what you plan on doing will not work because the head unit is not active capable so you cant just wire the tweeter and mid straight without a crossover. 

Also that sony at best does 40 watts rms not the advertised 100 so you are still severely underpowered. You can literally buy a 200 dollar pioneer double din and a mini amp that fits to the rear of the head unit/glove box, underneath steering wheel, by kick panels etc... for the same price and you'll have way better results.

There's no reason to even factor in the pre-amp outputs if you arent even going to add an amplified setup.

Thanks for the clarification on whether I'd be able to run the active components off the deck. I asked that question in the speaker section, but didn't get any responses. As far as them being bi-amp capable, I'm thinking of piecing together my own components and I haven't figured out what to do about crossovers yet. 

If I could find a small amp that could be hidden in the dash, that would be great. I was looking at the GM-8704 but it seems pretty big and not something that could easily been hidden. I'll have a look at some of the smaller ones. Also, I will at the very least have a sub amp, which is why I was interested in the pre amp voltage. Is that not that big a deal?  

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the clarification on whether I'd be able to run the active components off the deck. I asked that question in the speaker section, but didn't get any responses. As far as them being bi-amp capable, I'm thinking of piecing together my own components and I haven't figured out what to do about crossovers yet. 

If I could find a small amp that could be hidden in the dash, that would be great. I was looking at the GM-8704 but it seems pretty big and not something that could easily been hidden. I'll have a look at some of the smaller ones. Also, I will at the very least have a sub amp, which is why I was interested in the pre amp voltage. Is that not that big a deal?  

this taramps is a bit smaller

https://www.amazon.com/Taramps-DS800X42OHM-800-Ch-Ohm/dp/B074KRNVLF/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RNCEXV56YBF7E8Q28TJS

this one is a lot smaller

https://www.amazon.com/Taramps-TS400X4-Class-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00FGV0V0W/ref=pd_sim_107_3/135-6886699-2639616?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FGV0V0W&pd_rd_r=ec26af73-70cf-11e9-bc3b-5ffc0e2db024&pd_rd_w=Qssov&pd_rd_wg=weBLo&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=CT4H7727CMXCGB2DRE0H&psc=1&refRID=CT4H7727CMXCGB2DRE0H

then there's micro amps  like this pioneer or the more expensive alpine or clarion power packs but those are expensive and not that powerful.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pioneer-GM-D1004-GM-Digital-Series-400W-Slim-Compact-Class-FD-4-Channel-Amp/41161834?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227029386871&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=62689635648&wl4=pla-89026513728&wl5=9031569&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=41161834&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw2cTmBRAVEiwA8YMgzRRcI6CCNqsLmLoNyZNlvYpgJazoTVgDGopLb5sr9at1ftMxAijI-RoCY7oQAvD_BwE

as for sub amps. if you need little power, this sound digital amp does fine.  If you need a lot of power, taramps hd 3000 or md 3000 works too in small spaces and weak electrical.

 

[4BangerStanger]

is one is a lot smaller

https://www.amazon.com/Taramps-TS400X4-Class-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00FGV0V0W/ref=pd_sim_107_3/135-6886699-2639616?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FGV0V0W&pd_rd_r=ec26af73-70cf-11e9-bc3b-5ffc0e2db024&pd_rd_w=Qssov&pd_rd_wg=weBLo&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=CT4H7727CMXCGB2DRE0H&psc=1&refRID=CT4H7727CMXCGB2DRE0H

as for sub amps. if you need little power, this sound digital amp does fine.  If you need a lot of power, taramps hd 3000 or md 3000 works too .

I like the look of that 400x4.  I'd seen it before but looked passed it because I didn't want another amp in the trunk. I never thought about hiding it somewhere else. There's definitely potential there. The sub and sub amp (HD3000 per your recommendation) have been chosen, so I'm just looking for something to push the kids and highs. 

If I do go with the 400x4 would I be better off running the mids and tweets on their own channels, or bridge it to two channels and run mids and tweets together?  For speakers I'm thinking of going with some Dayton 6.5s and some Massive tweeters. Like I said, I haven't figured out crossovers yet. 

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I like the look of that 400x4.  I'd seen it before but looked passed it because I didn't want another amp in the trunk. I never thought about hiding it somewhere else. There's definitely potential there. The sub and sub amp (HD3000 per your recommendation) have been chosen, so I'm just looking for something to push the kids and highs. 

If I do go with the 400x4 would I be better off running the mids and tweets on their own channels, or bridge it to two channels and run mids and tweets together?  For speakers I'm thinking of going with some Dayton 6.5s and some Massive tweeters. Like I said, I haven't figured out crossovers yet. 

crossovers would be on the head unit itself. Get a pioneer double din around 200ish bucks and you have yourself network mode capabilities. 

 

[4BangerStanger]

crossovers would be on the head unit itself. Get a pioneer double din around 200ish bucks and you have yourself network mode capabilities. 

I'm thinking I'll go with this one. Since I really want Android Auto 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-RL9Pb21WSUV/p_130DM1500/Pioneer-DMH-1500NEX.html

I need to read up on network mode. But, my understanding is that it'll allow me to run active components.  Which sounds like what you're saying. I'm assuming in order to do that, I'd run the amp 4 channel with a speaker on each channel (2 mids, 2 tweets), right?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm thinking I'll go with this one. Since I really want Android Auto 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-RL9Pb21WSUV/p_130DM1500/Pioneer-DMH-1500NEX.html

I need to read up on network mode. But, my understanding is that it'll allow me to run active components.  Which sounds like what you're saying. I'm assuming in order to do that, I'd run the amp 4 channel with a speaker on each channel (2 mids, 2 tweets), right?

yup, you can buy whatever drivers you want without it having to be a component set so you  dont waste money on a passive crossover while you have the ability to time align, crossover and perfectly blend the mids and tweets all from the head unit.