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<blockquote data-quote="neonblack" data-source="post: 7671392" data-attributes="member: 568995"><p>If you're speaker(s) is lower than 1200 W you're going to blow the speaker(s). You need to match the speaker load. If you're running 2 channels with 150W RMS x 4 ohm speaker in each channel your output voltage needs to be (150x4)**1/2 or sqrt(150x4) = 24.5V output per channel.</p><p></p><p>Test tones can be misleading. You're never going to reach the level of a test tone from a retail CD. The test tones are very loud - even the ones at 192 KB/s (+/- 0 dB). I find that the tones are not indicative of CD levels. Grab a CD that is recorded at a very high level and use that to adjust the amp output voltage for your mids and your subs. Set your head unit to 75% volume (and bass/treble levels +/- 0 dB) then adjust your amp's output voltage.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="neonblack, post: 7671392, member: 568995"] If you're speaker(s) is lower than 1200 W you're going to blow the speaker(s). You need to match the speaker load. If you're running 2 channels with 150W RMS x 4 ohm speaker in each channel your output voltage needs to be (150x4)**1/2 or sqrt(150x4) = 24.5V output per channel. Test tones can be misleading. You're never going to reach the level of a test tone from a retail CD. The test tones are very loud - even the ones at 192 KB/s (+/- 0 dB). I find that the tones are not indicative of CD levels. Grab a CD that is recorded at a very high level and use that to adjust the amp output voltage for your mids and your subs. Set your head unit to 75% volume (and bass/treble levels +/- 0 dB) then adjust your amp's output voltage. [/QUOTE]
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