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Unhappy with the sound quality of my install. Where can I improve it? Wiring?
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8676375" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>aux is one of the worst signal paths compared to usb and aptx signals processed by a quality DAC. </p><p></p><p>Audiocontrol is not the gold standard anymore Actual DSPs that fixes the signal is the gold standard which has factory de-equalizition and restoration of bass, literally fixes the garbage signal out of your stock head unit. You are quite outdated on whats actually the gold standard nowadays. JL FIX or helix, alpine or audison DSPs all do this. Even a cheap alternative would be to bypass the stock head unit completely by installing a dayton dsp with bluetooth dongle with aptx lossless streaming for around 180. Pretty much your head unit wont even be in the equation and you dont have to remove it or anything just leave as is. but anything audio will go through the dsp. I never even mentioned getting an aftermarket head unit. The Factory integration game nowadays are DSPs .</p><p></p><p>For any worthwhile tuning you need actual hands on control and proper knowledge. Relying on a microphone will get you random boosted levels which leads to early clipping and innaccurate center stage. Plus you are using components with a passive crossover, there's no accurate sound stage or tuning available with that because you are stuck with a set crossover point so your mid and tweeter blend is pretty much playing the lottery to see if it works with your vehicle's acoustics. </p><p></p><p>What a proper setup would consist of would be using a DSP, foregoing rears, ditching the Audio control, the passive crossover and running active with your components on a dsp. With a 8 channel dsp, you have bandpass capability with the mid and high pass capability with the tweeters, a channel for subs and an extra channel for dedicated midbass or rears if you want to do so as well. The dsp will be your crossover and you can choose your own frequency and slopes to get the perfect blend between subs, mid and tweet along with indiviual left right level control for each mid and tweeter so the output is balanced between left and right since the left will be louder to you since you are in the driver side. You'll have 31 bands of EQ for each mid, sub, tweet both left and right independently as well. Your time alignment will be actually accurate because you can time align the tweeter and mid separately, they are in different locations of the vehicle and need different values. With a passive crossover its lumped together and you get a really hideous attempt at a center stage thats not accurate at all. </p><p></p><p>What the crossover functions will do is naturally tame peaks in the frequency response and make the overall system sound a lot smoother more detailed and resolving. AKA fixes your treble issue easily because on a lot of component sets they set the crossover frequency on the passive crossover too high and the mids are playing some treble as well or if your tweeters arent in an ideal location you get a lot of reflections off surfaces that creates spikes in the frequency response. Also with the DSP you have phase control to fix phasing between mid, tweeter etc... which sounds like a major issue you are facing with the lack of midbass and lower midrange impact right now.</p><p></p><p>With a stock head unit, they have their own EQ curve placed in with boosted and cut signals to make the sh*tty stock speakers sound as best as they can. What you are doing with the audio control unit is boosting that sh*tty frequency response curve even louder. Not to mention its low resolution, most stock head units are using a low quality mass produced DAC vs a proper 24 bit burr brown dac meaning overall resolution is fked from the start. Hence why my suggestion with using a bluetooth aptx dongle straight to the DSP( lossless digital signal straight to a dsp with audiophile grade dacs)</p><p></p><p>Sorry when you mention SQ in a vehicle with so much reflections, phasing, road noise and driver positioning and distance etc.., there's a whole world of issues that need to be addressed and fixed only with the proper tools.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8676375, member: 650438"] aux is one of the worst signal paths compared to usb and aptx signals processed by a quality DAC. Audiocontrol is not the gold standard anymore Actual DSPs that fixes the signal is the gold standard which has factory de-equalizition and restoration of bass, literally fixes the garbage signal out of your stock head unit. You are quite outdated on whats actually the gold standard nowadays. JL FIX or helix, alpine or audison DSPs all do this. Even a cheap alternative would be to bypass the stock head unit completely by installing a dayton dsp with bluetooth dongle with aptx lossless streaming for around 180. Pretty much your head unit wont even be in the equation and you dont have to remove it or anything just leave as is. but anything audio will go through the dsp. I never even mentioned getting an aftermarket head unit. The Factory integration game nowadays are DSPs . For any worthwhile tuning you need actual hands on control and proper knowledge. Relying on a microphone will get you random boosted levels which leads to early clipping and innaccurate center stage. Plus you are using components with a passive crossover, there's no accurate sound stage or tuning available with that because you are stuck with a set crossover point so your mid and tweeter blend is pretty much playing the lottery to see if it works with your vehicle's acoustics. What a proper setup would consist of would be using a DSP, foregoing rears, ditching the Audio control, the passive crossover and running active with your components on a dsp. With a 8 channel dsp, you have bandpass capability with the mid and high pass capability with the tweeters, a channel for subs and an extra channel for dedicated midbass or rears if you want to do so as well. The dsp will be your crossover and you can choose your own frequency and slopes to get the perfect blend between subs, mid and tweet along with indiviual left right level control for each mid and tweeter so the output is balanced between left and right since the left will be louder to you since you are in the driver side. You'll have 31 bands of EQ for each mid, sub, tweet both left and right independently as well. Your time alignment will be actually accurate because you can time align the tweeter and mid separately, they are in different locations of the vehicle and need different values. With a passive crossover its lumped together and you get a really hideous attempt at a center stage thats not accurate at all. What the crossover functions will do is naturally tame peaks in the frequency response and make the overall system sound a lot smoother more detailed and resolving. AKA fixes your treble issue easily because on a lot of component sets they set the crossover frequency on the passive crossover too high and the mids are playing some treble as well or if your tweeters arent in an ideal location you get a lot of reflections off surfaces that creates spikes in the frequency response. Also with the DSP you have phase control to fix phasing between mid, tweeter etc... which sounds like a major issue you are facing with the lack of midbass and lower midrange impact right now. With a stock head unit, they have their own EQ curve placed in with boosted and cut signals to make the sh*tty stock speakers sound as best as they can. What you are doing with the audio control unit is boosting that sh*tty frequency response curve even louder. Not to mention its low resolution, most stock head units are using a low quality mass produced DAC vs a proper 24 bit burr brown dac meaning overall resolution is fked from the start. Hence why my suggestion with using a bluetooth aptx dongle straight to the DSP( lossless digital signal straight to a dsp with audiophile grade dacs) Sorry when you mention SQ in a vehicle with so much reflections, phasing, road noise and driver positioning and distance etc.., there's a whole world of issues that need to be addressed and fixed only with the proper tools. [/QUOTE]
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Unhappy with the sound quality of my install. Where can I improve it? Wiring?
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