Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Miscellaneous Automotive
Car Performance & Repair
Upgrade alt w/o new batt DOESNT work!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="adulbrich" data-source="post: 8569129" data-attributes="member: 661255"><p>[quote name='DarkKnightSM']Go figure! I finally got my mechman alternator install done, belts tight but not to tight. No squeeks, everything tight and secure and terminal to metal surface areas sanded down awhile ago. </p><p></p><p>Yet i still have headlight dimming. Infact a new symtom has been added, now, at idle, when the bass hits, the car **** near stalls!? However, this is only on the first bass note hit. Subsequent hits do not effect the rpms hardly at all. Id have to pause the music and start it again for it to almost stall again. The whole time i was reading about 14.37 to 14.28 on MY volt meter. So then i took it to advanced auto parts for them to test with their fancy tester and theirs says pretty much the same thing</p><p></p><p>Except!, a drop down below 10 volts early on, but that portion appears to be from starting? Idk it appears the info on the printout is conflicting. </p><p></p><p>Anywho im almost positive that a stronger battery is nesesary to compentsate for those first bass hits, theres also something in my car called an ELD or something, i forgot now. Regulates the load pulled from the accessories. Maybe i should look at that too</p><p></p><p>Note: not pushing more then 600-700 watts max and stock alt was 70 amps, mechman alt is 240.</p><p></p><p>Oh and my thinking for a new battery works like this...the first hit comes from the battery because my alternator was "surprized" by the sudden demand for electricity. My interstate battery couldnt keep up, hence the close to stalling, but luckily after a few split seconds the alternator supplies the battery with what my system is demanding. But my question is why wasnt i having this problem with the stock alt. Sorry for being wordy, just trying to get all the info out there</p></blockquote><p></p><p>[quote name='DarkKnightSM']And yes this is in my 02 civic. Thats fascinating how H/O alts but a much heavier load on smaller engines. **** this tiny 1.7 liter[/QUOTE]</p><p></p><p>New battery and 240 amp alt is way overkill for 600-700 watts. It is a problem with your vehicle, not the equipment. That engine is ridiculously small for a 240 amp alt. Plus, Honda ELD (like GM&#39;s PCM regulation) su<span style="color: black">c</span>ks. I don&#39;t know what to do about the ELD, but another Honda owner on here might be able to help you. Not sure if it will make much of a difference though. Your engine is just small. Still, I&#39;m surprised it can&#39;t supply enough power for a 700 watt amp.</p><p> </p><p>[quote name='Boomin_tahoe']Hmm interesting. I&#39;m on the hunt for an Interstate battery. I&#39;m surprised that it can&#39;t keep up with demand...? [USER=661255]@adulbrich[/USER]</p><p></p><p>What gauge wiring are you using for big 3? It almost sounds like you knew you had a dying battery but went with upgrading alt anyway. I would get that battery load tested.[/QUOTE]</p><p> </p><p>Don&#39;t buy an interstate battery. Get an Exide.</p><p>[/QUOTE]</p>
[QUOTE="adulbrich, post: 8569129, member: 661255"] [quote name='DarkKnightSM']Go figure! I finally got my mechman alternator install done, belts tight but not to tight. No squeeks, everything tight and secure and terminal to metal surface areas sanded down awhile ago. Yet i still have headlight dimming. Infact a new symtom has been added, now, at idle, when the bass hits, the car **** near stalls!? However, this is only on the first bass note hit. Subsequent hits do not effect the rpms hardly at all. Id have to pause the music and start it again for it to almost stall again. The whole time i was reading about 14.37 to 14.28 on MY volt meter. So then i took it to advanced auto parts for them to test with their fancy tester and theirs says pretty much the same thing Except!, a drop down below 10 volts early on, but that portion appears to be from starting? Idk it appears the info on the printout is conflicting. Anywho im almost positive that a stronger battery is nesesary to compentsate for those first bass hits, theres also something in my car called an ELD or something, i forgot now. Regulates the load pulled from the accessories. Maybe i should look at that too Note: not pushing more then 600-700 watts max and stock alt was 70 amps, mechman alt is 240. Oh and my thinking for a new battery works like this...the first hit comes from the battery because my alternator was "surprized" by the sudden demand for electricity. My interstate battery couldnt keep up, hence the close to stalling, but luckily after a few split seconds the alternator supplies the battery with what my system is demanding. But my question is why wasnt i having this problem with the stock alt. Sorry for being wordy, just trying to get all the info out there[/QUOTE] [quote name='DarkKnightSM']And yes this is in my 02 civic. Thats fascinating how H/O alts but a much heavier load on smaller engines. **** this tiny 1.7 liter[/QUOTE] New battery and 240 amp alt is way overkill for 600-700 watts. It is a problem with your vehicle, not the equipment. That engine is ridiculously small for a 240 amp alt. Plus, Honda ELD (like GM's PCM regulation) su[COLOR="black"]c[/COLOR]ks. I don't know what to do about the ELD, but another Honda owner on here might be able to help you. Not sure if it will make much of a difference though. Your engine is just small. Still, I'm surprised it can't supply enough power for a 700 watt amp. [quote name='Boomin_tahoe']Hmm interesting. I'm on the hunt for an Interstate battery. I'm surprised that it can't keep up with demand...? [USER=661255]@adulbrich[/USER] What gauge wiring are you using for big 3? It almost sounds like you knew you had a dying battery but went with upgrading alt anyway. I would get that battery load tested.[/QUOTE] Don't buy an interstate battery. Get an Exide. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Miscellaneous Automotive
Car Performance & Repair
Upgrade alt w/o new batt DOESNT work!
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh