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Upgrade Batteries Or Alternator?
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<blockquote data-quote="HardofWhoring" data-source="post: 8825778" data-attributes="member: 674149"><p>I have a Mechman that's been working great for me. When searching for an alternator, there are 2 things you need to know. Amps at idle (which will be close to your idle), and rpm for full output. Any alternator company that can't give you those numbers, then walk away. The difference between a mechman and a cheap ebay alternator is Mechman will do around half at idle, and full output around 2200 rpms. A cheapo 300 alt is going to do less at idle than your factory 130, and won't do full output until over 3K rpms. If you aren't sure what your cruising RPMs are, then see where those are at and if it works. Mechman individually tests their alternators, and not only gave me those numbers but an actual printout of the overall output curve, and it produced a little more than rated.</p><p></p><p>Sounds like you are planning for 2200 watts on those two amps. 2200 / 14.4v = 152.7 amps. If your stock is 130, then you are at 282 amps needed. 320 will be plenty and give you a little extra room, for other electronics.</p><p></p><p>If you turn on your AC, your lights, turn signals, even brake lights, plug in some USBs, and try to get your electronics going (high beams, bed lights, etc.. ), then play your stereo at full volume, and your lights dim right away, then your battery can't keep up. If you play it for an hour and your voltage starts dropping over time, then your alternator can't keep up.</p><p></p><p>For almost every vehicle even stock, the big 3 will help. If you do that and your battery is still questionable, something I actually noticed an improvement on were with those $5 plated battery posts, (my truck went from cranking about 2 seconds to start, to about 1/2 -1 second start). If that is an option, spend the $5 on better posts and see if that might do it. If your grounds are good, and it still won't keep up, then you probably need a better battery also.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="HardofWhoring, post: 8825778, member: 674149"] I have a Mechman that's been working great for me. When searching for an alternator, there are 2 things you need to know. Amps at idle (which will be close to your idle), and rpm for full output. Any alternator company that can't give you those numbers, then walk away. The difference between a mechman and a cheap ebay alternator is Mechman will do around half at idle, and full output around 2200 rpms. A cheapo 300 alt is going to do less at idle than your factory 130, and won't do full output until over 3K rpms. If you aren't sure what your cruising RPMs are, then see where those are at and if it works. Mechman individually tests their alternators, and not only gave me those numbers but an actual printout of the overall output curve, and it produced a little more than rated. Sounds like you are planning for 2200 watts on those two amps. 2200 / 14.4v = 152.7 amps. If your stock is 130, then you are at 282 amps needed. 320 will be plenty and give you a little extra room, for other electronics. If you turn on your AC, your lights, turn signals, even brake lights, plug in some USBs, and try to get your electronics going (high beams, bed lights, etc.. ), then play your stereo at full volume, and your lights dim right away, then your battery can't keep up. If you play it for an hour and your voltage starts dropping over time, then your alternator can't keep up. For almost every vehicle even stock, the big 3 will help. If you do that and your battery is still questionable, something I actually noticed an improvement on were with those $5 plated battery posts, (my truck went from cranking about 2 seconds to start, to about 1/2 -1 second start). If that is an option, spend the $5 on better posts and see if that might do it. If your grounds are good, and it still won't keep up, then you probably need a better battery also. [/QUOTE]
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