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Upgrading Audio System in 2024 Kia Sportage - Need Advice
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8869635" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>The dayton or any DSP will require some time and effort on your part. One of things that plagued that 408 early on and a bit still, is that people don't know what they are getting into and then the install results in noise issues, which I've not encountered and could also be user install issues. It's not like MCCAC or Audyssey which are essentially set it and forget it with the option to adjust, fine tune manually. MCCAC or Audyssey are really all about time alignment and sub/sat adjustments, no real EQ, in their basic application anyway.</p><p></p><p>If you want to get a feel for it. download the REW calibration software, give it a try in test mode. I think you;re going to probably want the Helix in this instance unless you;re willing to put in some time to learn how to do it successfully.</p><p></p><p>I've actually purchased that Skar and that no name OFC kit and frankly see little difference. My experience with reading reviews on the cheaper products seem to indicate many of the reviews are from neophytes that don't know what they are looking at. The main consideration is the power ground and if it is actually OFC, which these two are. Stay away from the ones that claim to be OFC "hybrids", they're a joke. The kits get you started with the essentials and almost always require tweaks to complete. If you can find a 2 amplifier kit, they usually provide most everything one needs. Often, trying to piece out everything is way more expensive even if you don't use everything in the kits and augment accordingly.</p><p></p><p>What you want to get for a two amp install with the 2 amps is:</p><p></p><p>1/0-4 gauge OFC welding or amplifier power wire (a la carte or in a kit $$ dependent) and occasionally you will find 1/0 or 2 gauge for the price of 4 when it is labeled welding wire). Welding and Marine power wire can be less flexible but when using 4 gauge, not usually much of an issue. In my setup, I rund double 00 to the rear of my hatch, you'll want at least 4 gauge and 1/0 gauge if it is cheap enough. Either is a standard for connectors/ distribution blocks, so whichever provides you the most for the least amount of $$.</p><p></p><p>A fuse or breaker equal to the total of the two amplifiers fused rating, Add the two together and get a ANL fuse or circuit breaker and mount it within 18" of the car battery on the power lead. Your Alpin fuse rating is 60A and the RF is 100A, so a 160 amp fuse or breaker will work. The links I'm providing are only to show you what you need, often Amazon is cheapest but this site won't allow the lines to populate correctly. Anything I list here should be researched to get the best deals for you in your area.</p><p></p><p>I do make a strong recommend on the type of breaker used if you elect to use b breaker, my preference for a number of reasons, the main one being that you can turn the current on or off to your equipment with a flip of the switch. Here is what I would get. </p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/364559107170?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL]</p><p></p><p>Don't get pulled in by the cheap Chinese made breakers, they are usually a waste of money. If you elect to use a fuse, then any inline ANL fuse setup is fine as long as it is designed for the engine compartment.</p><p></p><p>At the other end, you will need a 2 way fused distribution block. These are nice and inexpensive but anything like this should be fine. (use a 60A for the Alpine and a 100A fuse for the RF).</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/145547894208?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL]</p><p></p><p>You'll need around 18-24 inches of equally sized ground wire too. Excellent grounding is essential, just visit youtube for a 100 examples of how to insure a good ground.</p><p></p><p>You'll need a total of 6 channels of RCA connections from any DSP or LOC, find twisted pair RCA's that are shielded by design. I like Knukonceptz, NVX for performance and price. You should have one pair already if you get a kit (use for the sub) and add an additional 4 channel like this.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/361075319987?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL]</p><p></p><p>16 gauge for all the speakers is fine (with the exception of the subs). There is absolutely no reason to use anything thicker. I like this stuff from NVX. Silver plated OFC, flexible, strong jacket and quality wire.</p><p></p><p>This is a steal at $35 and may be enough to everything with.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/304142145524?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL]</p><p></p><p>For the sub</p><p></p><p>This is going to be way more than you need, but as an example:</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/293676069855?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL]</p><p></p><p>You would likely get the 6 feet you need locally for a lot less.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8869635, member: 689267"] The dayton or any DSP will require some time and effort on your part. One of things that plagued that 408 early on and a bit still, is that people don't know what they are getting into and then the install results in noise issues, which I've not encountered and could also be user install issues. It's not like MCCAC or Audyssey which are essentially set it and forget it with the option to adjust, fine tune manually. MCCAC or Audyssey are really all about time alignment and sub/sat adjustments, no real EQ, in their basic application anyway. If you want to get a feel for it. download the REW calibration software, give it a try in test mode. I think you;re going to probably want the Helix in this instance unless you;re willing to put in some time to learn how to do it successfully. I've actually purchased that Skar and that no name OFC kit and frankly see little difference. My experience with reading reviews on the cheaper products seem to indicate many of the reviews are from neophytes that don't know what they are looking at. The main consideration is the power ground and if it is actually OFC, which these two are. Stay away from the ones that claim to be OFC "hybrids", they're a joke. The kits get you started with the essentials and almost always require tweaks to complete. If you can find a 2 amplifier kit, they usually provide most everything one needs. Often, trying to piece out everything is way more expensive even if you don't use everything in the kits and augment accordingly. What you want to get for a two amp install with the 2 amps is: 1/0-4 gauge OFC welding or amplifier power wire (a la carte or in a kit $$ dependent) and occasionally you will find 1/0 or 2 gauge for the price of 4 when it is labeled welding wire). Welding and Marine power wire can be less flexible but when using 4 gauge, not usually much of an issue. In my setup, I rund double 00 to the rear of my hatch, you'll want at least 4 gauge and 1/0 gauge if it is cheap enough. Either is a standard for connectors/ distribution blocks, so whichever provides you the most for the least amount of $$. A fuse or breaker equal to the total of the two amplifiers fused rating, Add the two together and get a ANL fuse or circuit breaker and mount it within 18" of the car battery on the power lead. Your Alpin fuse rating is 60A and the RF is 100A, so a 160 amp fuse or breaker will work. The links I'm providing are only to show you what you need, often Amazon is cheapest but this site won't allow the lines to populate correctly. Anything I list here should be researched to get the best deals for you in your area. I do make a strong recommend on the type of breaker used if you elect to use b breaker, my preference for a number of reasons, the main one being that you can turn the current on or off to your equipment with a flip of the switch. Here is what I would get. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/364559107170?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] Don't get pulled in by the cheap Chinese made breakers, they are usually a waste of money. If you elect to use a fuse, then any inline ANL fuse setup is fine as long as it is designed for the engine compartment. At the other end, you will need a 2 way fused distribution block. These are nice and inexpensive but anything like this should be fine. (use a 60A for the Alpine and a 100A fuse for the RF). [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/145547894208?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] You'll need around 18-24 inches of equally sized ground wire too. Excellent grounding is essential, just visit youtube for a 100 examples of how to insure a good ground. You'll need a total of 6 channels of RCA connections from any DSP or LOC, find twisted pair RCA's that are shielded by design. I like Knukonceptz, NVX for performance and price. You should have one pair already if you get a kit (use for the sub) and add an additional 4 channel like this. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/361075319987?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] 16 gauge for all the speakers is fine (with the exception of the subs). There is absolutely no reason to use anything thicker. I like this stuff from NVX. Silver plated OFC, flexible, strong jacket and quality wire. This is a steal at $35 and may be enough to everything with. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/304142145524?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] For the sub This is going to be way more than you need, but as an example: [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/293676069855?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] You would likely get the 6 feet you need locally for a lot less. [/QUOTE]
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