15" Subwoofer box, and its importance

zoltman1991

CarAudio.com Recruit
61
5
houston
Hello All! Again, thank you to all those who have been helping with my journey.

I will be having a JD1000.1 pushing a Kicker CVX 15" at 2ohms.

As of now, I purchased a prefab box: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3115468466...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Doesn't have tuning frequency on post.

My question is: My focus is on longevity and quality of system. Is this an absolute must to invest in a higher quality box? Trunk space is limited.
What should I be looking for? I found one that states it's tuned to 23hz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5H3VGD/?tag=caraudiocom-20

What are the benefits? Airflow, cooling? And is it detrimental to keep the current prefab. I don't want to risk blowing any speakers. My budget is very flexible, but also don't want to venture into the high-performing ranges.
 
You could argue the boxes more important than the sub when it's ported. The wrong box will make the absolute best subwoofer sound like trash and a built to spec box will make a cheap sub sound great.
 
That box says it is a 2.65 cu ft. If it it is made from .75" MDF. the minimum volume recommended by Kicker is as follows:

Min Vented Box Vol (cu. ft)
3.0
Max Vented Box Vol (cu. ft)
5.0

You're really at the bare minimum where a 10-15% deviation is considered acceptable though in this case definitely not preferable or acceptable to me unless the tuning goal is somewhere around 50-55hz. It will be boomy and have a definite peak well within the range it plays and will not play as low as it would in the correct enclosure.

15" subs need fairly large ported boxes to sound good, keep looking for something in the 4 to 5 cu ft realm that you can work with
 
That box says it is a 2.65 cu ft. If it it is made from .75" MDF. the minimum volume recommended by Kicker is as follows:

Min Vented Box Vol (cu. ft)
3.0
Max Vented Box Vol (cu. ft)
5.0

You're really at the bare minimum where a 10-15% deviation is considered acceptable though in this case definitely not preferable or acceptable to me unless the tuning goal is somewhere around 50-55hz. It will be boomy and have a definite peak well within the range it plays and will not play as low as it would in the correct enclosure.

15" subs need fairly large ported boxes to sound good, keep looking for something in the 4 to 5 cu ft realm that you can work with
So definitely want to maintain fidelity while keeping everything safe.
I have found this one: This one looks good. 3.65ft^3 tuned to 31hz. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3141263105...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

If you wouldn't mind, can you give me a crash course in what box tuning means. I did a brief google search, but I'm more of a science kinda guy.

May get some hate throwing a kicker into a skar box hehe
 
I don't like the Skar boxes the rear part of the port is wider at the bottom than the top due to the rear of the box having that slant while the rest of the port is the same top and bottom. Weird airflow can happen in my opinion.
A good prefab will cost at least $200. I'd do a GP Audio flat pack and put it together myself you'd want a double thick baffle for a 15" sub.
 
I don't like the Skar boxes the rear part of the port is wider at the bottom than the top due to the rear of the box having that slant while the rest of the port is the same top and bottom. Weird airflow can happen in my opinion.
A good prefab will cost at least $200. I'd do a GP Audio flat pack and put it together myself you'd want a double thick baffle for a 15" sub.
Don't think my trunk space would allow for that. It would fit, but there's no way I can fit it before installation and have enough room to get everything installed (I attached amps to box because I'm weird and don't want to drill holes in my car if I don't need to). So I know you said you don't like the box I posted... but ultimately will it be a viable option?
 
Don't think my trunk space would allow for that. It would fit, but there's no way I can fit it before installation and have enough room to get everything installed (I attached amps to box because I'm weird and don't want to drill holes in my car if I don't need to). So I know you said you don't like the box I posted... but ultimately will it be a viable option?
Skar boxes (like most prefabs) aren't tuned as low as claimed and honestly an empty prefab can't be tuned to anything really since that's a combination of the sub, airspace, a vent size (unless it's a prefab for a specific sub)
 
GP will work with the dimensions and keep the tuning real. See if there isn't
't a size, shape that can slide in once built. They are the real deal for sure, absolutely the bomb-diggity! $294, tuned to 29hz.

Otherwise, that sakr is going to be just okay, and will still be boomy. Here are some other prefabricatesd boxes that are decent indeed.

$269 tuned to 38hz


Really kicka$$ at $359 w/shipping


King sized $90


Honestly though, if you can build the GP in the trunk and make it work, a bit of work but it will pound the $hit out of ya!
 
GP will work with the dimensions and keep the tuning real. See if there isn't
't a size, shape that can slide in once built. They are the real deal for sure, absolutely the bomb-diggity! $294, tuned to 29hz.

Otherwise, that sakr is going to be just okay, and will still be boomy. Here are some other prefabricatesd boxes that are decent indeed.

$269 tuned to 38hz


Really kicka$$ at $359 w/shipping


King sized $90


Honestly though, if you can build the GP in the trunk and make it work, a bit of work but it will pound the $hit out of ya!
Awesome Thanks!

Was looking into each. So for my set up (with liquid, fluid bass electronic music), what would a good target tuning frequency be? $90 one you sent exceeds the upper ft^3 recommended by kicker (>5), but is the 5.3ft^3 taking into consideration the volume of the sub itself? Would this still be appropriate?

Also back to tuning frequencies. My amp does not have a subsonic. The LC2i has a frequency response down to 33hz. Do I want my box to match closely to 33hz as possible? What does this mean for how my subs perform. The one you sent is tuned to 37hz ($90). Will I notice the 'missing' range of 4hz? This can be extrapolated to all the boxes you both have sent.

The glue/screw kit allows me to decide a frequency. I know there is no best answer... but what is the best lol.. at least for my current situation.

LAST QUESTION FOR THIS RESPONSE: Is it problematic if my sub is top-facing in the trunk of a small sedan? I'd have maybe 2" before it hits the trunk lid. I dynamatted what I could, but I don't want this to be problematic.
 
The driver takes up around .25 cu ft so any of those boxes will work. For SPL tuning should be around 45-65 which is not my cup of tea. I like the GP at 4.25 tuned to 33hz, that price is with the double baffle and they don;t charges shipping or Tax (unless you live where they are made, i think).

If you use the LC2i, it has a 18db/octave high pass filter set at 33hz so you will want to get a box tune at 34 or above. I think anything tuned to around 34-40 should be dynamic and loud for your 15"

2 inches is cutting it very close and 4 would be a lot better. If you can fire them into the rear of the trunk, best and have the port fire off the same baffle too, that way the port loads/couples with the driver. That is not critical, you can have the port fire off one of the other sides but I would aim to have them fire into the rear or top with the drivers. It's not only about the vibration issue, but more to how the bass will load off the rear versus the trunk lid. I would have the best box regardless of which way you fire them.
 
The driver takes up around .25 cu ft so any of those boxes will work. For SPL tuning should be around 45-65 which is not my cup of tea. I like the GP at 4.25 tuned to 33hz, that price is with the double baffle and they don;t charges shipping or Tax (unless you live where they are made, i think).

If you use the LC2i, it has a 18db/octave high pass filter set at 33hz so you will want to get a box tune at 34 or above. I think anything tuned to around 34-40 should be dynamic and loud for your 15"

2 inches is cutting it very close and 4 would be a lot better. If you can fire them into the rear of the trunk, best and have the port fire off the same baffle too, that way the port loads/couples with the driver. That is not critical, you can have the port fire off one of the other sides but I would aim to have them fire into the rear or top with the drivers. It's not only about the vibration issue, but more to how the bass will load off the rear versus the trunk lid. I would have the best box regardless of which way you fire them.

That's the top facing. I could just place it on its side. The ports would be facing up, but subs face rear. This would be fine, I imagine. It's also tuned at 31hz. You said to get 34 or higher. Would getting a 31hz be consequential?

Leaning towards that or just the skar box for simplicity sake.
 
My guess is, once you get the speaker in it, more like 34hz so good to go. With that unit, try it up, try it to the rear, see which works best. Nice box!
 
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Yeah was thinking of those, they cost arond 130€ here from the store, so my best bet is to buy locally if i go with them 😁
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zoltman1991

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