LIFTEDIT1
Junior Member
I am just hoping to seek the opinions and experiences of those more knowledgable and experienced than I – I want to say in advance, thanks for reading through the forthcoming long-winded inquiries and rants.
What I’ve got: 1 PA 6000W Demon currently powering 2x 154x (DVC) PA MOFO’s @ 3000W ea. The demon is supposed to be capable of running 3500WRMS @ 1ohm/2000WRMS 4ohm (doesn’t mean stable and I’m sure it isn’t). The MOFO’s should put out 1700WRMS ea.
My power: I got both amp/subs for X-mas ’14 and prior I’d already had several electrical upgrades I did myself: 0 gauge from starter to batt, 0 gauge grounded under hood (to the block and frame), 0 gauge alt to batt as well as a rebuilt alt rated @ 200amps. I had someone re-run the pre-existing 4 gauge from batt to trunk with 0 gauge and my ‘Lac came with a yellow top Optima. When I went to throw in the demon and MOFO’s I had a 4farad BOSS cap (don’t laugh..).
What I did: Wired everything up, subs/amp/cap and got to ridin’ and destroyin’ – for a couple no more than a few months anyway. My cousin had 4 15’s and my 2 sounded just as obnoxious as his, if not even more so. It rains a lot where I’m at, had a lady, in the middle of it pouring down, at a red light, open her truck door and look back as if to say “OMG, is that really coming from his car..?”. I want that again… //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
What’s going on: Well… as previously stated, that lasted no more than maybe 4 months. My amp started going into protect when the serious bass hits and or I got the volume past 15 (rap is my forte’ but I bump every genre’). I knew the CAP I had was a b.s. work-around for lacking that real last component – a second battery in the trunk so I tossed the BOSS (anyone want?) and put in a Soundquest 2000W (Stinger makes them) in the trunk – same issue – going into protect when I demand a lot. If I keep the volume’s nominal where I feel the bass inside but you hardly do outside, it’s no problem, just when I want to crack the pavement.
What I found out: Well, for starters, the idiots who connected my second battery had a poor ground in the trunk, it was connected to plastic with 3 screws drilled through an o-ring terminal. I got a stinger, stand-alone ground for the trunk, mounted and corrected that issue. Secondly, a section of my power wire (prior to the fuse) under the hood was corroded – replaced the whole wire with a new 0 gauge and fixed another ground wire with a similar issue under the hood. Still no bueno/same isssue with regards to really hitting bass notes. I even re-wired the subs up from 1ohm to 4ohms and she does the same thing.
My thoughts/questions: Oh yeah, I pulled my Kenwood KVT 514 HU and made sure it was grounded properly – looks like it’s fused and connected OK. I know my issue CANNOT be power related, even for such an inefficient amp as the one I have. I think that what’s happened is when it was new it did the 1ohm, killin’ it thing but the subsequent power/ground faults I discovered along with it running 1ohm for that amount of time and playing at the levels I had it kinda killed it, especially since it won’t even handle 4ohms either.
My max budget would be about $600. Either for 2 amps, one powering each sub so that they have absolutely more than enough power and the amps are not upset too much by having to power 2 15’s. Would you guys/gals recommend that or just sticking with 1 really good mono amp? That being said brings me to my next question – I’m looking at main options being 1 Lanzar OPTI4601D, dual PA BB2500.1, or dual/sole AudioPipe(s). I have experience with all but the Lanzar’s.
Any further t-shooting I can do w/the amp? I think she’s toast; what amp from the above, or any within range for my setup would you recommend? And last but not least, there’s this annoying feedback coming from my system even when no music is being played – with all the aforementioned t-shooting what should I check to correct this feedback issue? The only thing I haven’t looked into is my SSL EQ.
Thanks again for your time because, I know, this resource is the most precious of all…
What I’ve got: 1 PA 6000W Demon currently powering 2x 154x (DVC) PA MOFO’s @ 3000W ea. The demon is supposed to be capable of running 3500WRMS @ 1ohm/2000WRMS 4ohm (doesn’t mean stable and I’m sure it isn’t). The MOFO’s should put out 1700WRMS ea.
My power: I got both amp/subs for X-mas ’14 and prior I’d already had several electrical upgrades I did myself: 0 gauge from starter to batt, 0 gauge grounded under hood (to the block and frame), 0 gauge alt to batt as well as a rebuilt alt rated @ 200amps. I had someone re-run the pre-existing 4 gauge from batt to trunk with 0 gauge and my ‘Lac came with a yellow top Optima. When I went to throw in the demon and MOFO’s I had a 4farad BOSS cap (don’t laugh..).
What I did: Wired everything up, subs/amp/cap and got to ridin’ and destroyin’ – for a couple no more than a few months anyway. My cousin had 4 15’s and my 2 sounded just as obnoxious as his, if not even more so. It rains a lot where I’m at, had a lady, in the middle of it pouring down, at a red light, open her truck door and look back as if to say “OMG, is that really coming from his car..?”. I want that again… //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
What’s going on: Well… as previously stated, that lasted no more than maybe 4 months. My amp started going into protect when the serious bass hits and or I got the volume past 15 (rap is my forte’ but I bump every genre’). I knew the CAP I had was a b.s. work-around for lacking that real last component – a second battery in the trunk so I tossed the BOSS (anyone want?) and put in a Soundquest 2000W (Stinger makes them) in the trunk – same issue – going into protect when I demand a lot. If I keep the volume’s nominal where I feel the bass inside but you hardly do outside, it’s no problem, just when I want to crack the pavement.
What I found out: Well, for starters, the idiots who connected my second battery had a poor ground in the trunk, it was connected to plastic with 3 screws drilled through an o-ring terminal. I got a stinger, stand-alone ground for the trunk, mounted and corrected that issue. Secondly, a section of my power wire (prior to the fuse) under the hood was corroded – replaced the whole wire with a new 0 gauge and fixed another ground wire with a similar issue under the hood. Still no bueno/same isssue with regards to really hitting bass notes. I even re-wired the subs up from 1ohm to 4ohms and she does the same thing.
My thoughts/questions: Oh yeah, I pulled my Kenwood KVT 514 HU and made sure it was grounded properly – looks like it’s fused and connected OK. I know my issue CANNOT be power related, even for such an inefficient amp as the one I have. I think that what’s happened is when it was new it did the 1ohm, killin’ it thing but the subsequent power/ground faults I discovered along with it running 1ohm for that amount of time and playing at the levels I had it kinda killed it, especially since it won’t even handle 4ohms either.
My max budget would be about $600. Either for 2 amps, one powering each sub so that they have absolutely more than enough power and the amps are not upset too much by having to power 2 15’s. Would you guys/gals recommend that or just sticking with 1 really good mono amp? That being said brings me to my next question – I’m looking at main options being 1 Lanzar OPTI4601D, dual PA BB2500.1, or dual/sole AudioPipe(s). I have experience with all but the Lanzar’s.
Any further t-shooting I can do w/the amp? I think she’s toast; what amp from the above, or any within range for my setup would you recommend? And last but not least, there’s this annoying feedback coming from my system even when no music is being played – with all the aforementioned t-shooting what should I check to correct this feedback issue? The only thing I haven’t looked into is my SSL EQ.
Thanks again for your time because, I know, this resource is the most precious of all…
