Can my amp run this?

[bi_a_op]

My Gladen Zero PRO 165.2 PP components is 2-way 3 ohm 150W RMS, 225W peak.

My amp is a Gladen 100.4 with the following specs.

• RMS in stereo @ 4ohm 4x100W
  RMS in stereo @ 2ohm 4x155W
  RMS bridged @ 4ohm 2x310W
  RMS bridged @ 2ohm 2x480W

Can i run them on the selected amplifier? I'm aldo confused about them being 3ohm and amplifier being 2 or 4. Where do I plug the dam thing?

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[treesive 10+ year member]

Wire each speaker to its own channel. The amp will give around 120 rms to each speaker at 3 ohms. 3 ohms is between 4 and 2 so split the difference and you have a general output it will do at 3.

 

[bi_a_op]

Wire each speaker to its own channel. The amp will give around 120 rms to each speaker at 3 ohms. 3 ohms is between 4 and 2 so split the difference and you have a general output it will do at 3.

Thanks for your reply. But the RMS of the speakers are 150W. Will it be safer to get a better amp? Also what is the equation for finding the RMS at 3 ohm on an amplifier? Do this amp have built in crossover?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for your reply. But the RMS of the speakers are 150W. Will it be safer to get a better amp? Also what is the equation for finding the RMS at 3 ohm on an amplifier? Do this amp have built in crossover?

It will be fine. Underpowering does not hurt, if set up right the speaker will last longer. There is no equation. If it does 155 at 4ohm and 100 at 2 ohm, 3 ohm will be somewhere in the middle. Chances are you will never see that power anyway, maybe for a few seconds at a time.

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

If you only have a pair bridge your amp, you'll get more power bridging and it will still support your speaker

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

If you only have a pair bridge your amp, you'll get more power bridging and it will still support your speaker

Do you think running 300 watts through a 150 watt crossover is a good idea? OP did not know waht his amp does at 3ohms, how do you think that would turn out?

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

Do you think running 300 watts through a 150 watt crossover is a good idea? OP did not know waht his amp does at 3ohms, how do you think that would turn out?

Like you said it will not see that wattage, and over powering speakers is this new to you?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Like you said it will not see that wattage, and over powering speakers is this new to you?

Its 150 watts over rated to a componet set. The crossover and tweeters will pop. It wont see all the power but thats a bit much for what it is.

 

[treesive 10+ year member]

Do not bridge the amp. It is within 20 watts of being dead on rms at each channel. This amount of power difference will net you almost nothing audible. If you are that close to rms not bridged then you shouldn't bridge the amp. It also doesn't say it is stable bridged below 4 ohms so that is another chance you would be taking which isn't worth it when the result is blown speakers anyway. When in doubt match the rms of the amp with the rms of the speaker at the same impedance(ohm) within a few watts and you will be fine. Now judging by these questions I would get somebody that has done this a few times to help you install it as you need to set the gain correctly or all of this was for nothing.

 

[bi_a_op]

Thank you! You saved me a lot of money.

 

[bi_a_op]

I have also been looking at some charts for wire sizes. I just can't figure it out. Said amplifier plus a monoblock at 1x1300RMS powering two 1 ohm load 50-500 RMS subs. Just a standard sedan, relatively small. Audi A3 to be exact. Last step for salvation and my project is ready.

 

[treesive 10+ year member]

It is always better to go bigger on power and ground wires. I would run 0/1 gauge back to the amp area and then spit off with a distribution block to whatever size you need probably 4 gauge to each amplifier will be fine. I haven't looked but if your amps are not fused then you will have to add inline fusing to each amplifier power wire. Also put a big fuse right up next to your battery in case of a short.

 

[bi_a_op]

It is always better to go bigger on power and ground wires. I would run 0/1 gauge back to the amp area and then spit off with a distribution block to whatever size you need probably 4 gauge to each amplifier will be fine. I haven't looked but if your amps are not fused then you will have to add inline fusing to each amplifier power wire. Also put a big fuse right up next to your battery in case of a short.

Okay so the big fuse right by the battery, already checked. So if my amps don't have built-in fuses I should put a fuse right by the amp like I did on the battery? Also, should I do the math and check if the built-in fuses are strong enough for the wattage on the amp? Or wouldn't that be nececcrcreccaary?

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

Okay so the big fuse right by the battery, already checked. So if my amps don't have built-in fuses I should put a fuse right by the amp like I did on the battery? Also, should I do the math and check if the built-in fuses are strong enough for the wattage on the amp? Or wouldn't that be nececcrcreccaary?

The fuse near the battery should be based off of the wires power handling. The amplifiers should have a fuse rating in their specifications, so use that for the fuses near the amps.