Need help installing aftermarket subwoofer setup into my new used car.

[s.abushaikha]

I recently purchased a 2013 Lexus GS350 F Sport with navigation, (Non-ML system). The previous owner already had a subwoofer setup and left all of his stinger wired hooked up. I was told that the detailing crew at the dealership removed the line output converter he had to sell it for money I guess...

I have a 2channel 1200watt Skar amp with two Skar 10" subs from my previous Acura. The wiring he has is 4 channel. He also removed the factory sub and has the two connections which you normally see in factory car audio, running alongside the aftermarket wires. I took the car to my local car audio shop and they said he had hooked up the factory sub wires to a line output converter and had that running to the amp or whatever to power the subs. They wanted $500 for a KeyLOC and labor...

How can I handle this myself, if anyone needs photos I will link some in a little bit... My amp gets power but my subs receive no signal. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Get yourself a an LOC and hook it up. Something as simple as this little Kicker LOC might do the trick. I'd get a written quote if you can, it will itemize some of what is needed and then check it out aftermarket stuff tha might work. I used this little guy to add an amp to my grandsons car, easy peasy. This assumes you have access to full or the sub signals too. this will handle up to 55 watt speaker level inputs from the OEM setup. and it does not require a remote lead, Something tells me that you may need resistive loads too, just a hunch, not completely sure but Audiocontrol makes those as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKFSLKN/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[s.abushaikha]

Get yourself a an LOC and hook it up. Something as simple as this little Kicker LOC might do the trick. I'd get a written quote if you can, it will itemize some of what is needed and then check it out aftermarket stuff tha might work. I used this little guy to add an amp to my grandsons car, easy peasy. This assumes you have access to full or the sub signals too. this will handle up to 55 watt speaker level inputs from the OEM setup. and it does not require a remote lead, Something tells me that you may need resistive loads too, just a hunch, not completely sure but Audiocontrol makes those as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKFSLKN/?tag=caraudiocom-20

I appreciate the quick response, a lot of this audio and electrical stuff is confusing to me, where do I hook up the factory sub speaker connections? And if the RCA's are coming from somewhere in the front of the car, what exactly is coming out the LOC... Sorry I'm a little confused but I can go outside right now and send a photo of the setup.

 

[s.abushaikha]

Here are some photos if it helps, if anything help me understand what you guys suggest...
(Don't know why they're sideways)

Everything power-wise is wired to the amp, what's left is the factory cables and the 4 RCA's. 2 of which are tagged "F" and the other 2 "R." No matter which way I arrange them they give no signal to the subs.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Something tells me that even if this guy gets banned it'll turn into whack-a mole. Lol... seriously

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

where do I hook up the factory sub speaker connections? And if the RCA's are coming from somewhere in the front of the car, what exactly is coming out the LOC...

Ok, let us try to figure this out. Where do those RCAs come from. If the previous owner only had a sub system installed, he would only need two RCAs. So do trace them to form the battle plan.
Here is how LOCs are wired-
On one side you will have pairs of regular wires, white and gray if two channels plus green and purple if four channels.
These wires are spliced into the factory speaker wires to feed the signal into the LOC.
The other side will have either two or four RCA ports. These feed the modified signal to the amplifier. That's it for a passive LOC.
If it is a digital LOC, it will have power, ground, and remote out. The remote out goes to the amp's remote terminal. That's it for now.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

WTF??? Do not listen to anything he says, he knows not what he speaks!

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

New

Something tells me that even if this guy gets banned it'll turn into whack-a mole. Lol... seriously

A new a$$hat born everyday... The op is just trying to install a subwoofer/amp to the OEM system.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Ok, let us try to figure this out. Where do those RCAs come from. If the previous owner only had a sub system installed, he would only need two RCAs. So do trace them to form the battle plan.
Here is how LOCs are wired-
On one side you will have pairs of regular wires, white and gray if two channels plus green and purple if four channels.
These wires are spliced into the factory speaker wires to feed the signal into the LOC.
The other side will have either two or four RCA ports. These feed the modified signal to the amplifier. That's it for a passive LOC.
If it is a digital LOC, it will have power, ground, and remote out. The remote out goes to the amp's remote terminal. That's it for now.

Its almost like fine tuning an AI, I wouldn't feed it info but instead meme it to death. I haven't broken out the bigguns quite yet myself.

Stay tuned

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Opening salvo...

"Mitchell Fosgate" seems knowledgeable with lotsa keywords and base meanings but honestly its a Papermakers revenge or something. Who TF is this guy?

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Bot or troll forsure...

This'll blow his mind...

Weigh in on the "loudspeaker cookbook" please @Mitchell Fosgate lll ... any good readin?

Please tell all of us how the phase affects the flux within the gap as referenced against a known magnetic field with a known set of windings. And further extrapolate how shielded RCA can affect the flux while solidifying the ground floor. andwhat to do to defeat those pesky 3 laws every sub system encounters.

Can you design this forum an enclosure for 2 12's P3/ported and recommended?

How does ratio affect boundary layer airflow in regards to port ratio? Tell everyone the optimum ratio and design please.

Can you change a tire?