Trappin_Ron
CarAudio.com Newbie
My current setup is 1600 watts for the subs and 1000 watts for the mids and highs in a 4x configuration. 2010 Hyundai accent gls with upgraded alternator power wire and battery ground.
To start off I have been running my sub setup and just stock aftermarket head unit power for the mids and highs for about 4 1/2 months now with not one issue. I finally decided its time to upgrade the mids and highs setup that I was running. Went ahead and picked up a skar RP-150.4ab and installed it. Install went well with no problems AT FIRST the same day I finished I went on a cruise so I could hear my new setup. I run a voltage meter to the battery and the voltage was all over the place. All these numbers are based on playing close to max volume.
While driving/ accelerating-12v
While driving no throttle-11ish volts
At idle- 10volts
After I came home I left the car overnight and came back out the next morning to go to work and it would not start volts were sitting at 9.5 ish and dipping after each crank. Fast forward a few days I thought I had fixed the problem and figured it was a charging issue and installed a Big 3 upgrade restoring volts while driving back to 14v while driving and the car starting right up. Once again let the car sit overnight and went to start it and it was not even picking volts up this time. Went to jump it as I had done previously but was too scared to take it to work and be stranded there yet another day so I left it and took another vehicle. I now was under the assumption that the amps were drawing power while the car was off so I unplugged the power and ground wires from the amp and the ones touching the battery. Jumped the car once again and drove around a few miles to restore volts back up. Left the car sitting at 12.2 volts at 7:30pm after one hour went out to check the number real quick and it was reading 10.7volts. Came back out 30 min later at 8:50 and it was reading 8.2 volts and was dropping 0.01 volts every 8 seconds ish. I am now basically running a stock car with a pair of extra floodlights that remain off unless a switch is turned. What is drawing power from the battery killing it in less than an hour and a half ???
To start off I have been running my sub setup and just stock aftermarket head unit power for the mids and highs for about 4 1/2 months now with not one issue. I finally decided its time to upgrade the mids and highs setup that I was running. Went ahead and picked up a skar RP-150.4ab and installed it. Install went well with no problems AT FIRST the same day I finished I went on a cruise so I could hear my new setup. I run a voltage meter to the battery and the voltage was all over the place. All these numbers are based on playing close to max volume.
While driving/ accelerating-12v
While driving no throttle-11ish volts
At idle- 10volts
After I came home I left the car overnight and came back out the next morning to go to work and it would not start volts were sitting at 9.5 ish and dipping after each crank. Fast forward a few days I thought I had fixed the problem and figured it was a charging issue and installed a Big 3 upgrade restoring volts while driving back to 14v while driving and the car starting right up. Once again let the car sit overnight and went to start it and it was not even picking volts up this time. Went to jump it as I had done previously but was too scared to take it to work and be stranded there yet another day so I left it and took another vehicle. I now was under the assumption that the amps were drawing power while the car was off so I unplugged the power and ground wires from the amp and the ones touching the battery. Jumped the car once again and drove around a few miles to restore volts back up. Left the car sitting at 12.2 volts at 7:30pm after one hour went out to check the number real quick and it was reading 10.7volts. Came back out 30 min later at 8:50 and it was reading 8.2 volts and was dropping 0.01 volts every 8 seconds ish. I am now basically running a stock car with a pair of extra floodlights that remain off unless a switch is turned. What is drawing power from the battery killing it in less than an hour and a half ???
