Replacing stock speakers - Ram 1500

[rick619]

Looking to buy replacement speakers for my 2023 Ram 1500. Not going to get an amp because that would put the install past my skill level and budget. So planning to start with the speakers. Possibly add an amp later, just not in the budget right now. I got a couple estimates for installation. Told them both $1500 and both came back with figures around $2500 lol. If I just get speakers and do it myself, the below options are around $400 which I can do right now.

OEM Config is:
2 X 3.5" - Dash
4 X 6X9 - Doors

Per Crutchfield, I should get 3ohm speakers. From reading reviews, I have 3 options.

Top so far:
4X Infinity Reference REF697F - 6X9 - 2 way
2X Infinity Reference REF307F - 3.5"

Could substitute the 6X9 for Infinity Primus 693M - 3 way

Option 2:
Kicker 51KSC69304 6X9 - 3 way
Kicker KSC350 3.5"

Option 3:
JBL Club 964M 6X9 - 3 way
JBL Club 34F 3.5"

Reviews look good for all 3. Or let me know if you suggest another brand. Will not consider Ebay or anything that won't let me return them, charge re-stocking fees, etc. Prefer a well known website with good customer service.

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Assuming you have the basic OEM system where are you planning on mounting the midranges? Given the lack of installation experience, that is not only not an easy task, it's kind of a critical unit in a three way setup.

3 ohms, no amplifier, are very limiting factors and any of the speakers you have selected will work. I'd take them in the following order.

Sony, Kicker, JBL.

What OEM system did the truck come with?

At the end of the day, with todays factory systems, upgrading just the speakers will only marginally improve the overall system. You're going to spend $300 for a $200 improvement over the factory.

Better, but not a lot better.

If I were using passive setups, for cost and benefits, I would pay to have an amplifier installed that will work with the factory radio and retin the functions if that is what you want. All off Amazon, can't get more return friendly than that. Decent powered amp:

200 x 4 at 4 ohms $110

Amazon.com

Front two-way $120

Amazon.com

Rear Coaxials to match $100

Amazon.com

Add in a maestro/iData d=fir the iDatalink to retain steering wheel functions if that is wanted: $50-$150

Installation for the harness and amplifier (you wire and install all the speakers the shop hooks up the RCA's and power to the amp you run the speaker wires to all the speakers.

2-4 hours at $125 and hour - $250 to $500.

At the most, $850 to $950 plus tax. THis would absolutely trounce just updating the speakers and IMHO, be far more satisfying than simply upgrading the OEM speakers.

 

[rick619]

Assuming you have the basic OEM system where are you planning on mounting the midranges? Given the lack of installation experience, that is not only not an easy task, it's kind of a critical unit in a three way setup.

3 ohms, no amplifier, are very limiting factors and any of the speakers you have selected will work. I'd take them in the following order.

Sony, Kicker, JBL.

What OEM system did the truck come with?

At the end of the day, with todays factory systems, upgrading just the speakers will only marginally improve the overall system. You're going to spend $300 for a $200 improvement over the factory.

Better, but not a lot better.

If I were using passive setups, for cost and benefits, I would pay to have an amplifier installed that will work with the factory radio and retin the functions if that is what you want. All off Amazon, can't get more return friendly than that. Decent powered amp:

200 x 4 at 4 ohms $110

Amazon.com

Front two-way $120

Amazon.com

Rear Coaxials to match $100

Amazon.com

Add in a maestro/iData d=fir the iDatalink to retain steering wheel functions if that is wanted: $50-$150

Installation for the harness and amplifier (you wire and install all the speakers the shop hooks up the RCA's and power to the amp you run the speaker wires to all the speakers.

2-4 hours at $125 and hour - $250 to $500.

At the most, $850 to $950 plus tax. THis would absolutely trounce just updating the speakers and IMHO, be far more satisfying than simply upgrading the OEM speakers.

The OEM setup is 2X 3.5" in the dash corner. 2 sets of 6X9 for front and rear doors. It's the base, non Alpine system.

I watch a few Youtube videos and those are easier to replace than the door speakers. Just have to pry off the grill cover. Many have only replaced those. I have a blown driver side 6X9 (buzzing and poping), so defintely want to replace those ASAP. Thought of even skipping the rear for now since my kids could care less. But not sure if that would give uneven volume or something like that.

An amp puts it beyond my skill level and budget. So skipping those for now, sticking to what I can do myself.. Phase two might be an amp and sub.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The OEM setup is 2X 3.5" in the dash corner. 2 sets of 6X9 for front and rear doors. It's the base, non Alpine system.

I watch a few Youtube videos and those are easier to replace than the door speakers. Just have to pry off the grill cover. Many have only replaced those. I have a blown driver side 6X9 (buzzing and poping), so defintely want to replace those ASAP. Thought of even skipping the rear for now since my kids could care less. But not sure if that would give uneven volume or something like that.

An amp puts it beyond my skill level and budget. So skipping those for now, sticking to what I can do myself.. Phase two might be an amp and sub.

The dash location can be used for a small coaxial and a 6x9 woofer in the door or a 1" tweeter in the dash and a 6x9 woofer in the door. that is a not an easy find in a 3 ohm configuration. You don't want a 2-way in the dash and a two way in the doors, not good, screws up the stage and the overall sound is compromised, too much tweeter is not a good thing.

If you do get 3.5" coaxials for the dash and also for the doors, clip the tweeter wires on the doors to essentially give you a true 3-way in the front and not a dual 2-way which is less desirable.

If you are not going to use the dash (which you shouldn't if you have a two way in the doors), then any of the Coaxials you picked in the order that I listed would be fine.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Looking to buy replacement speakers for my 2023 Ram 1500. Not going to get an amp because that would put the install past my skill level and budget. So planning to start with the speakers. Possibly add an amp later, just not in the budget right now. I got a couple estimates for installation. Told them both $1500 and both came back with figures around $2500 lol. If I just get speakers and do it myself, the below options are around $400 which I can do right now.

OEM Config is:
2 X 3.5" - Dash
4 X 6X9 - Doors

Per Crutchfield, I should get 3ohm speakers. From reading reviews, I have 3 options.

Top so far:
4X Infinity Reference REF697F - 6X9 - 2 way
2X Infinity Reference REF307F - 3.5"

Could substitute the 6X9 for Infinity Primus 693M - 3 way

Option 2:
Kicker 51KSC69304 6X9 - 3 way
Kicker KSC350 3.5"

Option 3:
JBL Club 964M 6X9 - 3 way
JBL Club 34F 3.5"

Reviews look good for all 3. Or let me know if you suggest another brand. Will not consider Ebay or anything that won't let me return them, charge re-stocking fees, etc. Prefer a well known website with good customer service.

Id recommend Polk Audio speakers myself

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Id recommend Polk Audio speakers myself

Wants to go from stock, 3 ohm to aftermarket 3 ohm replacements, no amp. Pretty limited options.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Wants to go from stock, 3 ohm to aftermarket 3 ohm replacements, no amp. Pretty limited options.

4 ohm speakers will work just fine in there. Ive done quite a few rams with 4 ohm speakers and never had any issues with no on board amplifier

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Looking to buy replacement speakers for my 2023 Ram 1500. Not going to get an amp because that would put the install past my skill level and budget. So planning to start with the speakers. Possibly add an amp later, just not in the budget right now. I got a couple estimates for installation. Told them both $1500 and both came back with figures around $2500 lol. If I just get speakers and do it myself, the below options are around $400 which I can do right now.

OEM Config is:
2 X 3.5" - Dash
4 X 6X9 - Doors

Per Crutchfield, I should get 3ohm speakers. From reading reviews, I have 3 options.

Top so far:
4X Infinity Reference REF697F - 6X9 - 2 way
2X Infinity Reference REF307F - 3.5"

Could substitute the 6X9 for Infinity Primus 693M - 3 way

Option 2:
Kicker 51KSC69304 6X9 - 3 way
Kicker KSC350 3.5"

Option 3:
JBL Club 964M 6X9 - 3 way
JBL Club 34F 3.5"

Reviews look good for all 3. Or let me know if you suggest another brand. Will not consider Ebay or anything that won't let me return them, charge re-stocking fees, etc. Prefer a well known website with good customer service.

@audiobaun makes s good point.

You would be best to go with 4 ohms drivers, a little bit quieter, but opens up a ton of options. Why I had it stuck in my head we were talking 2 ohms is beyond me. With that option, a good solution would be a 6x9 woofer up front and wideband or tweeter up front front and a coaxial 6x9 in the back. Any 4 ohm option will work. these are slightly more than what you were looking at but are very nice indeed. @92db, efficient too.

Front

XSP69KIT 600W Peak (300W RMS) 6"x9" X-Series 2-Way Component Speakers with Carbon Fiber Cones and 25mm Silk Dome Tweeters

Product Details: 6" x 9" X Series 2-way Component System Car Speakers Power Handling: Peak: 600 watts per set / 300 watts each side RMS: 300 watts per set / 150 watts each side Carbon Fiber cone material Rubber speaker surround 1" Silk Dome Tweeters CEA-2031 compliant: Yes 1-3/16" Voice coil...

nvx.com

Rear

XSP692 900W Peak (300W) RMS X-Series 6"x9" 2-Way Coaxial Speakers with Carbon Fiber Cones and 25mm Silk Dome Tweeters

Product Details: 6" x 9" NVX X-Series 2-way Coaxial Car Speakers Power Handling: Peak: 900 watts per pair / 450 watts each RMS: 300 watts per pair / 150 watts each Lightweight Carbon Fiber cone Rubber speaker surround 1" Silk Dome German-made tweeters CEA-2031 compliant 1-3/8" Voice coil Woven...

nvx.com

 

[rick619]

Doesn't sound like 'quieter' will be problem if all speakers are 4ohm? Even comes out about $100 less. Though still need adapters and dash tool and such. I'm not usually blasting the music anyway, just looking for better sound. Won't be difficult to sound better than these OEM speakers that appear to be cardboard.

Just would be worried about all of it fitting. Per Crutchfield, lots of the 6X9 I looked at wouldn't fit, too deep for the doors?

Not really sure the difference between 3 and 4 ohm. I believe the dash 3.5" are 8ohm. Doesn't sound like much, but don't want anything shorting out or anything.

Looks like the same adapter to go from OEM to the Infinity would just connect to the crossover. Then stash the crossover somewhere behind the dash?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

All things being equal in comparing speakers on the same amplification, the difference in overall volume will be slightly less with a same efficiency driver giving the amp a 4 ohm (1 ohm more load) than a 3 ohm load. It's a combination of factors but generally speaking, 1 oum higher impedance will net you roughly 10-15% less volume. This is because amplifier output a factor of both it's output capability and the impedance it sees from the speaker. 4 ohms is 1 ohm more impedance than 3 - more resistance less power output, about 15%. Since the OEM amp is designed to give its's highest output at 3 ohms than 4, it would be slightly less, If that amp was 2 ohm stable (likely not) then 2 ohms speakers would theoretically put out 33% more, everything (speakers) all being the same as the same speaker at a 4 ohm load.

Most of these are actual differences in a controlled sound lab, not in a car environment and can be offset by differences in the speakers efficiency too. Here is the measured difference in SPL, in a sound room anechoic chamber at 1 watt/1 meter. Assuming that the speaker is the same unit, can handle the power and the amp is stable down to 1 ohm- strictly for comparatives and not as simple in a car environment. It takes roughly a 9 db increase in oupt to double the volume perceived by the ear (and actually more in a car).

20 to 40 watts + 3db (33% louder)
40 to 80 watts, another + 3db (66% louder that base)
80 to 160 watts, another + 3db(99% louder than base) or a percieved doubling of the SPL to the ear.

Output (SPL) is affected by the efficiency of the driver, inversely in the same way. Given the exact same model speaker size/design an 84db given 20 watts will be 33% lower than the same driver that is 87db efficient and 66% lower than the same driver at 20 watts that has an efficiency rating of 90db etc.

It's a long explanation as to why, ultimately, 4 ohms drivers will be very close in output as their 3 ohm counterparts. It assumes that most all the factors other than the impedance are the same.

If you go with a 3ohm speaker that is 87db efficient (1 watt/1 meter) it will be roughly as loud as a 4 ohm speaker that has a rated efficiency of 88.5 db, slighter quieter than the same 4 ohm driver that has a rating of 90db.

Find the most efficient driver that fits your needs in a 3 ohm or 4 ohm impedance, relative to each other (not the factory speakers as the efficiency is not known and could be higher or lower) and go with it. Use the efficiency ratings as a barometer in the new speakers you're looking at, comparatively.