OHHH YESSS
!
Thanks
Be ready to get lots of info Lol!
***Sorry for the delay of my reply, I've been trying all morning to figure out why my attachments are appearing sideways! I tryed everything and still doesn't work...
TO BEGIN WITH:
I have a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport (Luxury sport utility AWD 2.4L).
--------Line output converter / bass knob / Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier-------
I'm keeping the factory radio and there are no RCA jacks behind it. So I need a "Line Output Converter". My Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier doesn't have a “plug-in” for a bass knob. I would like to have one because if i want to adjust the bass on the touch screen i have to press up to 6 different options to get there. It's not practical when you change songs or style of music... and the risk of going sideways on the road
. So I will need a universal bass knob that works with RCA jacks for my two subwoofers. I will therefore have to “TAP” on the speaker wires of the harness behind the radio with the “Line Output Converter” to get the signal. So, I guess I can't use the “speaker level input” harness on my amplifier. I looked at many reviews and what I chose proved very well. The “Line Output Converter” that I chose is the “Kicker 46KISLOC2” which has a “remote turn-on output” (so no need to connect to 12v). As for the “bass knob”, I would choose either the “PAC LC-1” (RCA input and output only)… OR …the “CT-Sounds with voltmeter” (RCA input and output with blue, red, yellow and black wires which is on the wiring sketch i made).
------Alpine SWS-1223D Subwoofers-------
An Alpine SWS-1223D subwoofer is a 12” dual voice coil (2 Ohms + 2 Ohms). I have two of these subwoofers. Each has 300W RMS in a two-compartment sealed box. For these, I use my Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier which delivers 600W RMS × 1 at 2 Ohms (continuous). So I want to wire the subwoofers together to get 2 Ohms for the amplifier. So, the subwoofers will receive 300W RMS each.
---------Front door lower speakers / Alpine MRP-F200 amplifier----------
I also want to replace the lower front door speakers but I haven't chosen them yet. There are already separate tweeters above each door and I will keep those. So, for these two “speakers”, I will use my 4-channel MRP-F200 amplifier which delivers 100W RMS × 2 “bridged at 4 Ohms” (continuous). To do so, I followed the instructions in the MRP-F200 user manual (figure #9) at the bottom of the document to hook it up “bridged at 4 Ohms”. According to figure #9 I have to connect with RCA wires so I cannot use the "speaker level input" harness to get the signal... if I understand correctly.
--------EVEN THOUGH I'VE DONE LOTS OF RESEARCH, I STILL HAVE QUESTIONS...--------
#1 On the drawing, inside the subwoofer box, it was already wired when i bought it (see picture attached). Each subwoofer has a "jumper cable" inside. The way I wired the subwoofers outside the box, I made two jumper cables and connected the subwoofer wire coming from the MRP-M650 amplifier and did a "TAP" on each one. Is this the way to do it? ...and does that give me 2 Ohms for my MRP-M650 amplifier?
#2 NOTE: BOTH AMPLIFIERS WILL BE UNDER THE FRONT SEATS OF THE VEHICLE.
I've done my research and I already have an idea but I would like to have your opinion just to make sure...
- What wire size do you recommend for the subwoofers if the MRP-M650 amplifier gives 300W RMS ×2?
- What wire size for the two lower “speakers” of the front doors if the MRP-F200 amplifier gives 100W RMS ×2?
- What wire size for the "Power and Ground cable?
- Are 20 or 18 gauge (which I already have) suitable for the wires of the “CT-Sounds bass knob” and for the “remote” wires that goes to the amplifiers?
#3 Is it really necessary to have a voltmeter for the system (“bass knob CT-Sounds with voltmeter” as shown in my drawing) OR can I just use the “bass knob PAC LC-1” without a voltmeter?
***The "PAC LC-1 bass knob" is 4 times cheaper and much easier to install because it's just RCA'S (input and output)...
#4 If you recommend the “CT-Sounds bass knob with voltmeter”, by pushing the control button you can turn the MRP-M650 amplifier on or off. The PAC LC-1 bass knob can only control the bass but cannot turn the amplifier on or off. So, will the “remote” wires of the two amplifiers automatically turn off the 2 amplifiers if I “TAP” them on the “remote antenna #18” wire of the 24 pin harness (refer to harnesses description picture) of the radio when I turn off the engine? ...I wouldn't want to run out my battery...
***I am writing and I have the impression of being completely in the field...
#5 If I understand correctly, the radio volume will control all the car's speakers and subwoofers? As for the “bass knob”, it is only used to adjust the bass of the subwoofers?
#6 There are two 30A fuses on the MRP-M650 amplifier for the subwoofers. Is a 60A breaker OK near the battery?
#7 There is a 25A fuse on the MRP-F200 amplifier for the front speakers. I couldn't find a 25A breaker for a car, I don't think it exists. There are only 20A or 30A “breakers”. Can I get one of the two? If yes, which one?
***I would like “breakers” for the simple reason that you can press “reset” and no need to replace fuses. On the other hand, if I have no choice but to put a 25A fuse for the MRP-F200 amplifier, I will do so.
#8 In the user's manual for the MRP-M650 amplifier (page 8, fig.4) they mention that it may be necessary in certain conditions for the "remote turn-on lead" wire of the amplifier to be connected to a “switched power source” like “ignition”. It also mentions that maybe it would be necessary to install a "switch" and a 3A fuse near the "ignition" TAP!?!? If we're talking about "ignition" it's probably #7 on the 24 pin harness of the radio (refer to harnesses description picture). I don't really understand this page #8 and figure 4 either. Do i really need all this for the MRP-M650? Should i also do the same thing for the MRP-F200 amplifier even if it is not mentioned in the user's manual!?
*If this is the case, I don't know exactly where to "TAP" and how to wire the 3A fuses and the "switch"!?!?...
#9 On my wiring sketch, wherever I connect the wires, please check if I "TAP" at the right places to get the signal (see picture of harnesses description)... if that is the way to do it. ..
… AND FINALLY… HAHAHA
#10 Nowhere could I find the dimensions for the depth of the “speakers” at the bottom of the front doors to find a good “fit”! I even called Hyundai and they don't have that either. The only thing I found was the size of the speakers on
Crutchfield.ca and they say 6 ½” OR 6 ¾”. Why two sizes, it seems to me that it's not possible? One or the other must have a support for installation right?!?!
***On
Crutchfield.ca, they ask if there is a logo on the front speaker grills and mine doesn't have one.
I also checked on
Amazon but when I choose my vehicle, they don't give any suggestions for “speakers” no idea why... Do you know if there is a website that exists to see what speakers fits in my vehicle?
-What specifications do you recommend? -How many watts RMS?... 2-way?, 3-way?, midrange?, fullrange, coaxial!?!?
*From what I understand, a 2-way midrange speaker would be ok... if it exists LOL I'm all mixed up, I've listened to too many videos! LOL
I don't want to invest too much but i still want something decent. My budget is tight... off work since 2021.
Told you it was long to read hahaha.
Take your time
Thank you very much, i really appreciate!