Battery Help??

Below20hzonly
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Ok ive got a few questions. 1.Can I use my duracell procell group 26 batt that i have under the hood of my car with a alpha cell premium gel group 31 that i have laying around that i want to put in the trunk. 2. Do you really need a negative front batt to rear batt 1/0 run or can you just ground them straight to the frame and be fine? thanks

 
Ok ive got a few questions. 1.Can I use my duracell procell group 26 batt that i have under the hood of my car with a alpha cell premium gel group 31 that i have laying around that i want to put in the trunk. 2. Do you really need a negative front batt to rear batt 1/0 run or can you just ground them straight to the frame and be fine? thanks
I've been doing a lot of research myself on batteries and grounding. I have seen some people ground it to the frame of the car rather than running it all the way from the up front battery. I personally would run to the up front battery for a solid ground. But I'm not a car audio expert at all. But i've seen it done both ways. Hopefully someone will reply with some good info so both of us can benefit!

Goodluck

 
It's best to use all AGMs or all wet cells but if you have one of each and need the extra power you can mix them. Wet batteries rest at a slightly lower voltage than dry batteries so when the vehicle is not running, the wet battery will leach the surface charge from the AGM and the long term result will be slightly shorter life for the AGM battery. It won't be catastrophic though so if you need to mix them for a few months it's not a problem. And yes, you can use AGM batteries as starting batteries.

As grounds go, it really depends on the vehicle. Many manufacturers are using epoxy adhesives to glue body panels together these days, in lieu of welding, so if you have a late model unibody car there is a pretty good chance that you don't have a good ground path for a rear battery bank. If you don't know if the manufacturer of your car used epoxies or spot welds, your best bet is to run a separate ground to your rear battery(s). And obviously, if you have a

vehicle with a frame, that's a safe ground.

Another thing to keep in mind with rear battery banks is that big three grounds in the front can cause the rear batteries not to get sufficient charge current so that wiring (if installed) needs to be changed when you add them. Ideally, you want a 1/0 + and - wire from the alternator to the front battery and then from there you run one (or more) + & - wire to the rear battery bank. If you have multiple batteries in the rear you ground only the last one in the circuit to the frame/body as this ensures the best and most complete path for charging current.

In simple terms, current follows the path of least resistance.

 
AGM (absorbed glass mat) is a special design glass mat designed to wick the battery electrolyte between the battery plates. AGM batteries contain only enough liquid to keep the mat wet with the electrolyte and if the battery is broken no free liquid is available to leak out.

Gel Cell batteries contain a silica type gel that the battery electrolyte is suspended in, this thick paste like material allows electrons to flow between plates but will not leak from the battery if the case is broken.

More often than not AGM Batteries are mistakenly identified as Gel Cell Batteries. Both batteries have similar traits; such as being non spillable, deep cycle, may be mounted in any position, low self discharge, safe for use in limited ventilation areas, and may be transported via Air or Ground safely without special handling.

AGM Batteries outsell Gel Cell by at least a 100 to 1. AGM is preferred when a high burst of amps may be required. In most cases recharge can be accomplished by using a good quality standard battery charger or engine alternator. The life expectancy; measured as cycle life or years remains excellent in most AGM batteries if the batteries are not discharged more than 60% between recharge. There are some AGM batteries we sell that offer excellent 80%+ deep cycle abilities.

Gel Cell Batteries are typically a bit more costly and do not offer the same power capacity as do the same physical size AGM battery. The Gel Cell Battery excels in slow discharge rates and slightly higher ambient operating temperatures. One big issue with Gel Batteries that must be addressing is the GEL CHARGE PROFILE. Gel Cell Batteries must be recharged correctly or the battery will suffer premature failure. The battery charger being used to recharge the battery(s) must be designed or adjustable for Gel Cell Batteries. If you are using an alternator to recharge a true Gel Cell a special regulator must be installed.

 
I was gonna come in and just say not to use a gel at all, but it looks like that has been way more than stated already^^^

 
so ground the front batt negatice to the alternator case? you can use gel batteries as starting batts too right?is my duracell procell even an AGM or is it just a normal leadacid?thanks

It's best to use all AGMs or all wet cells but if you have one of each and need the extra power you can mix them. Wet batteries rest at a slightly lower voltage than dry batteries so when the vehicle is not running, the wet battery will leach the surface charge from the AGM and the long term result will be slightly shorter life for the AGM battery. It won't be catastrophic though so if you need to mix them for a few months it's not a problem. And yes, you can use AGM batteries as starting batteries.
As grounds go, it really depends on the vehicle. Many manufacturers are using epoxy adhesives to glue body panels together these days, in lieu of welding, so if you have a late model unibody car there is a pretty good chance that you don't have a good ground path for a rear battery bank. If you don't know if the manufacturer of your car used epoxies or spot welds, your best bet is to run a separate ground to your rear battery(s). And obviously, if you have a

vehicle with a frame, that's a safe ground.

Another thing to keep in mind with rear battery banks is that big three grounds in the front can cause the rear batteries not to get sufficient charge current so that wiring (if installed) needs to be changed when you add them. Ideally, you want a 1/0 + and - wire from the alternator to the front battery and then from there you run one (or more) + & - wire to the rear battery bank. If you have multiple batteries in the rear you ground only the last one in the circuit to the frame/body as this ensures the best and most complete path for charging current.

In simple terms, current follows the path of least resistance.
 
so ground the front batt negatice to the alternator case? you can use gel batteries as starting batts too right?is my duracell procell even an AGM or is it just a normal leadacid?thanks
Yes, ground to the alternator. You can definitely use AGMs for starting and I'm pretty sure that battery is an AGM but I'm not too familiar with Duracells battery models.

 
so ground the front batt negatice to the alternator case? you can use gel batteries as starting batts too right?is my duracell procell even an AGM or is it just a normal leadacid?thanks
Well If you battery looks like this and says AGM on the front then your good.

Duracell® AGM Deep Cycle Marine and RV Battery - Group Size 31 - Sam's Club

But as for your ProCell that is a good ol fashion golf cart battery.

SLI26G Duracell Battery - 245CCA - IS 1000Z Mid-Mount Zero-Turn Mower - Ferris - Lawn Mower Riding Mower and Tractor Batteries - Batteries Plus

I would say not what you want. Go with a Duracell group 31 agm from sams 179.99 new with a 1 year warranty or a Diehard Platinum PM1 for like 239.99 new with a 3 year warranty. The duracell is cheaper but diehard is a little more power and a better warranty. Iv used diehards personally and I love them. Never used Duracell but they are a Renamed DEKA. So you know thats a good batt.

 
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Below20hzonly

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