First box.. stupid question

[Iakona 10+ year member]

Okay... bulding my first box; sealed, went to Lowes got 4'x8' 3/4 MDF. Went to ace got Titebond, 1 5/8" Dry wall screws, and a 2/32" Pilot bit. I just have a really stupid question.

Do i need a speaker terminal cups (i think its what they are called, the things where you connect the wires on each side of the box) and if so where can i get them locally? When i look to buy a box online they all have them so im just curious where i can get them.

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[phyphoestilic 5,000+ posts]

I know u can buy them online real cheap. Only place i can think of is finding a local audio shop (home audio, car audio) they should have some.

 

[Iakona 10+ year member]

bump

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

Any local car audio shop will have them. BB usually has them, probably CC.

parts express FTMFW though

 

[MAD MAX101 10+ year member]

u dont need them... u can just drill a hole and run speaker wire through it... make sure u seal the hole up good

 

[Iakona 10+ year member]

I asked the guy that works at BB and he said i would have to go to a car dealership? i was like wtf... maybe why i wouldnt buy **** from there.

 

[phyphoestilic 5,000+ posts]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-309

those the ones in my box, work great.

 

[Iakona 10+ year member]

Hrm... i guess i could just order it, always just better to buy it without having to fill out crap and wait for them.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

Dude, you got a 1/16" drill bit? That's going to be worthless to you, you're going to split the wood wider than a girls legs on prom night. You should get a 7/32 or 1/8 (what I use personally), and that way the shaft of the screw is the same size as the pilot hole, and the flanges on the screw are doing the biting.

 

[geowick07 10+ year member]

As you can see from above, you have a couple options.

1. Just drill holes where you want the wire to be, and run them through. Just be sure to seal them up afterward.

2. Terminal cups are better-looking, and need to be sealed after installation.

3. Binding posts - These are what I used. You just drill a 1/4" hole, fill it with silicone, tap them in place, and tighten them up. On most, you have the choice of using bare wire, banana plugs, or spade connectors. Have a look on this site. A lot of good accessories on here for a decent price! PartsExpress.com

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

Yea 1/16th is way too small for a pilot hole. The ideal size is SLIGHTLY smaller than the size of the center of the screw, so only the teeth go into the wood and a little pressure remains to hold it there.

 

[DaBurner 10+ year member]

u dont need them... u can just drill a hole and run speaker wire through it... make sure u seal the hole up good

yea u can do it this way if your tight on money, as long as the box is airtight your good

but it would be better to get speaker cups from radioshack so you can take your subs out easily(depending on how there hooked up) i remove my subs from my car often so i have the cups, and take the wires of easy

 

[geowick07 10+ year member]

Dude, you got a 1/16" drill bit? That's going to be worthless to you, you're going to split the wood wider than a girls legs on prom night. You should get a 7/32 or 1/8 (what I use personally), and that way the shaft of the screw is the same size as the pilot hole, and the flanges on the screw are doing the biting.

x2. 1/8" is what i use on all my stuff for pre-drill. 1/16" is useless.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

and by 7/32 I really meant 7/64ths //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[MAD MAX101 10+ year member]

yea u can do it this way if your tight on money, as long as the box is airtight your good
but it would be better to get speaker cups from radioshack so you can take your subs out easily(depending on how there hooked up) i remove my subs from my car often so i have the cups, and take the wires of easy

cool, i never move my speakers... i can not even get the box out...