Help with dodge / chrysler wiring

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I'm dealing with the infinity system in an '04 chrysler.

I want to retain the stock head unit, replace the door speakers with a 6.5" component set and install a pair of amps.

Things I'm trying to figure out before I start pulling panels --

Is there a good spot to install an LOC (4 ch)? (In my previous car - ford - I was able to access all spkr wires at the RCU harness in the trunk)

Ideas for mounting component crossovers?

Method to get good speaker wire into the doors?

Is there a convenient location to get 4 awg through the firewall.

I'm working with a minivan. And the geeks on the minivan forum are just trying to tell me how dumb I am for messing with the wonderful "infinity" system. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

Click to read more...

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Not that anyone seems to care, but I found a good bit of info at crutchfield.

2003-2004 Chrysler Town and Country with Infinity with DVD Wiring Information

There are 4 amps in the system. They are located on each front door speaker, and the rear speakers.

So the speaker wires are line level. That should mean I can just tap into the signal wires with no need for an LOC.

I will probably just buy some twisted pair rca's and cut the tips off one end so I can t-tap them directly to the stock wires.

Still not sure how to go about getting wires through the door connections -- I'll just have to figure that out as I go.

Power wire through the firewall will be a bit of a chore too.

 

[BoomTaco64]

power wire through the firewall is rough but can be easy by using a long 48" zip tie as a wire runner and can go through the grommet in the top corner. door boots are a little tougher as they may have the molex plugs and will need to be drilled through in the blank area. can and has been done. takes some time but do not let it frustrate you. you will get it done.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Ugh. I hate the idea of drilling into the doors.

I don't want to add any more locations where rust is likely to develop.

I've read that the connectors can be notched in some cases making room for wire to be fed.

Like I said -- probably going to be a "figure it out as I go" sort of deal.

My Taurus had a big cylindrical plug that all the wires passed through. I was able to drill a 3/8" hole through the middle for wiring.

The Dodge/Chrysler appears to use a couple different plugs -- much smaller. Not really seeing the space needed for 12-16 wire.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Got driver's side door wired. Had to unbolt the pkg brake and disconnect the cable under the van for room to work.

I was able to use the wiring boot going into the door -- but that boot doesn't connect to the door frame, it just ends half way between the door and the frame/jamb. The main wiring grommet is much higher and forward, it might even feed into the engine compartment so it really wasn't an option.

Luckily, there's an unused plug/grommet below the hinges -- behind it I found a cavity full of expanding foam.

I needed to route the wire about a foot, going almost straight upward through this foam.

I used a screwdriver to create a path then taped my spkr wire to a much more stiff wire to feed it through.

It was a slow process, but I eventually got it done.

I also mounted the crossover.

Passenger's side should go much better.

 

[CSCStang]

Got driver's side door wired. Had to unbolt the pkg brake and disconnect the cable under the van for room to work.I was able to use the wiring boot going into the door -- but that boot doesn't connect to the door frame, it just ends half way between the door and the frame/jamb. The main wiring grommet is much higher and forward, it might even feed into the engine compartment so it really wasn't an option.

Luckily, there's an unused plug/grommet below the hinges -- behind it I found a cavity full of expanding foam.

I needed to route the wire about a foot, going almost straight upward through this foam.

I used a screwdriver to create a path then taped my spkr wire to a much more stiff wire to feed it through.

It was a slow process, but I eventually got it done.

I also mounted the crossover.

Passenger's side should go much better.

Second one is always easier. First one is the guinea pig.....and the learning curve.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Yeah, pass. side took ~1/3 as long.

So - got main wires into doors and routed to cargo area.

Marked spots for tweeters. Got one of my 6x9 to 6.5 adapters made.

Also got main power (fused) ran from battery through firewall -- need to get it hidden.

I need to get the HU out to tap into signal and remote. Also mount LOC. After that step it shouldn't be long before the front stage is up and running.

Got a few pics if anyone cares.

This is the grommet I found to get wires from the door wiring boot into the kick area. View is looking up from beneath the door.

This is after getting it into the door and through the wiring boot -- then it runs down a few inches into the grommet.

Speaker wire taped to stiff wire (clothes hanger) coming out the top of the kick panel.

crossover location.