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Help with JBL speaker repair - refoam gone wrong?
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8864956" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>As for the wire, this 16 gauge is all you will need whether you are running complete runs from the amp or just splicing at the end near the speakers, 14 gauge is overkill and a lot more difficult to work with considering the original wire is likely 18 or 16 gauge to begin with. it's fairly inexpensive, it's pure copper and marked for polarity.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B006LW0WDQ[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>I emailed a message to you. That same provo beast vid guy contradicts his original rear speaker install statements when shooting the the door install, making it all clear as mud. I've located his location and chat, will try to get confirmation on Monday as it is closed on the weekends. It's absolutely not clear whether the dividing networks is electronic or not. If it was, he would not use the caps in the tweeter set-up using the alpine supplied cap.</p><p></p><p>At the end of the day, it appears that you could get the adaptors he list and the alpine speakers. 2-way components up front (6x9 midbass in the door and tweeters in the dash as originally suggested using the supplied cap/coil inline dividing network (crossover)):</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B079G5X8K8[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B00IIC6CPE[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B01N2J8892[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>2-way coaxial in the rear:</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B079G46NV1[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>This would be the simplest resolution. You'll just de-solder the tweeter wire leads from the rear of the coaxials, run the rear tweeter wire to those tweeter input wires leads and the bass input wire leads to the midbass drivers and you're good! </p><p></p><p>This is the simplest option for sure and takes the guesswork out of the equation.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8864956, member: 689267"] As for the wire, this 16 gauge is all you will need whether you are running complete runs from the amp or just splicing at the end near the speakers, 14 gauge is overkill and a lot more difficult to work with considering the original wire is likely 18 or 16 gauge to begin with. it's fairly inexpensive, it's pure copper and marked for polarity. [MEDIA=amazon]B006LW0WDQ[/MEDIA] I emailed a message to you. That same provo beast vid guy contradicts his original rear speaker install statements when shooting the the door install, making it all clear as mud. I've located his location and chat, will try to get confirmation on Monday as it is closed on the weekends. It's absolutely not clear whether the dividing networks is electronic or not. If it was, he would not use the caps in the tweeter set-up using the alpine supplied cap. At the end of the day, it appears that you could get the adaptors he list and the alpine speakers. 2-way components up front (6x9 midbass in the door and tweeters in the dash as originally suggested using the supplied cap/coil inline dividing network (crossover)): [MEDIA=amazon]B079G5X8K8[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=amazon]B00IIC6CPE[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=amazon]B01N2J8892[/MEDIA] 2-way coaxial in the rear: [MEDIA=amazon]B079G46NV1[/MEDIA] This would be the simplest resolution. You'll just de-solder the tweeter wire leads from the rear of the coaxials, run the rear tweeter wire to those tweeter input wires leads and the bass input wire leads to the midbass drivers and you're good! This is the simplest option for sure and takes the guesswork out of the equation. [/QUOTE]
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Help with JBL speaker repair - refoam gone wrong?
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