Help with JBL speaker repair - refoam gone wrong?

BenH

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I need some help on if I can still recover my car speakers or if at this point it is not worthwhile and I should look for replacements. I'm definitely a newbie with all of this. I apologize for the length of the post - I wanted to give all the details that might be necessary. I'm hoping some of you are patient enough to read through and help me out!

In short one of the rear speakers started rattling when playing bass. A guy at the local store said they were "blown" but without going into detail I wasn't sure he was well informed, and when I started researching on my own I found some issues.

I have these JBL speakers in the back deck:
jbl.png


They are component speakers - a sub with another speaker in that plastic bracket across the top. They are apparently 2 Ohm speakers, which makes finding replacements harder (and more expensive). In my search I found out about re-foaming them with a kit like this:
s-l1600.jpg


I wasn't sure if a re-foam would fix the issue, so first I tore apart my rear deck to get at the speakers. I could clearly see that the foam was highly deteriorated on the one speaker, with large pieces just flapping. The other speaker had some deterioration, but not as much and still seemed to sound ok. Since I figured I would need to refoam both, I started slowly pulling away some more foam off the good sounding speaker. It was so deteriorated it peeled away very easily and once I took off some more it started sounding just like the other speaker. I thought for the $25 for the re-foam kit it was worth trying to repair them. This is what they looked like before the re-foam:

ADCreHfvIJzjNMB0f-rBSkaole7JNwz3OotG5VCb4CQqv63CYUYWBtHPcdX6Rc_WM9DTsKXztnxyljDsUKkYpysWQr3gXragjjj-iGy08lqWOARTeHsIClhLKxDpv0cBbHe5wgT0UNGg_tpGyb3laBmIsSc5Ob-Rda9psqUDZffNZYXEHCJCROoZk2JL58XijFRe-_T2nCBufyOpqAGXOT3H-x1cFLFC-MmxsyyCxKH42bu0G5nLEyBcK1gvx8-MXNSbF7P6cP_Y_XPcKRoeA-ZWmq5cEDTofZ_2eRabXuQ3mETkNdNl1Z0QwyoPcJnZWEdTXouElLuyvpX1Nokhs21hAzmFZhbsoZvFslgKoc4yLYg5IJaCdaK_D06dr_dGb5b3DP8fbessSYiXmBrot-d3QSGy-mi4LVcatGyW3Dmg7DcIM6o1-R8rw6_xaKV89-cCPS41PIwFckwAXLmNJHRL0lufpNkNAJku4PRij3NA2bST6ahjhxd0jNL98V9xzHMKo2NFHUyVHVZ1FDpV3xetMu1UKa-4CVNtxt4Ts7FXNNZtqeFbsZmVHy16aebduH_CGvjfjDNKFU7rRiETESkR1A6p7CCH_hvCJjK8S-DaZQRBOHLnZT_NOXHborZS9YfLZA6xBhOajNVyQUkMKL41AI1dsxiAgdRebGonAsRWryAoSPyNT62HZXKq0ca9_KIUlZbcFs98H5IpB_k-GP7rlxHohaMpU_fYMJT0-OVgdj_lF_hwP6LW19NLzQc0ZTQKoXiaH7aCBdcZlDCcu4rqPcrnYECHsghmtuBRToU0D_7K3UwX-uIwZIyQi-Yg-r-8rzNqarIzaq2G4z4FlDQbp-3hbYttEwl2FzxmIxR6VLn5I-4PM3cK8Qmk_YnW4rq1ZTfl6zw-Cqbin9bwfMkeiFY36EBy3Gzea2vKB1X0=w1179-h884-s-no-gm



I followed the instructions in the kit to remove all the foam and clean it all up. I think I did a good job getting it off the metal housing and the speaker cone. When the foam was removed there was a gap between the metal and cone. This is not my speaker, but taken from online as an example of what I'm talking about:

1701894111072.png


I had read something about having to possibly "shim" the speaker and/or remove the black piece in the middle of the cone (don't know what its called!), however the entire cone seemed to be one piece and not something that should be removed. The cone did not shift at all inside the assembly, at least not left to right. It moves up and down (mostly down if you compress it), but since it didn't appear to move freely in its housing it, and because none of the tutorials I found said so, it seemed that you could just affix the foam to both surfaces.

The instructions stated to glue the foam to the cone first and after it dried to apply the glue to the underside of the foam which affixes to the metal housing. I think I did a decent job with this, although with the foam covering the cone it was hard to know if it was 100% even on all sides. For example:

1701894522347.png


In the above picture the yellow ring is the edge of the attached foam. You can see that it is adhered to the entire ring, but where the yellow line points there is a bit more cone (meaning the foam here would be adhered a little closer to the center of the speaker), whereas the edge affixed near the red line is closer to the outside of the cone. The above is probably an exaggeration and my centering may have been off by a mm or two. But, since I adhered the cone first, the outside edge of the foam still fit comfortably back around the housing .

I'm just mentioning all of this because the instructions didn't really call for any special care to make 100% everything was lined up to the mm. I tried the best I could, but the glue dries fast and I didn't want to peel stuff back and ruin it even more and have to buy additional pieces.

So - I put these back into the car after they dried. At first I heard some rattling which I thought was due to the speakers not being mounted to the deck tight enough. They were attacked with metal bolts that simply screwed through the speaker housing and the deck of the car. However some of the bolts would not tighten anymore (because the metal hole in the deck was now too loose), so I went at bought some nuts to put on the underside (in the trunk) to tighten them better to the frame. I thought this worked and when blasting the bass it sounded ok, but I soon realized the loud reverb was hiding the issue.

When I have the volume set pretty low, I can now hear that one of the speakers (unfortunately I can't identify which speaker was which from when I removed them, they got moved around) still makes a buzz/rattle on bass.
I played around pushing down on the edges of the cone in various positions and determined if I either put some pressure from above on one side (or pull the opposite side down from the underside of the cone in the trunk) the sound is reduced or eliminated.

I tried to place some wound cloth around the edge of the housing to put pressure on the spot and it does the trick...until the volume is turned loud and the movement of the speaker shakes it loose.

I don't know if the speakers can be repaired easily. I feel like I did a good job with the re-foam and I don't think I would know how to do it better if my positioning of the foam ring being a little off center is the problem. From my observation it doesn't appear so because again the center cone doesn't shift around (only moves up and down). Also whatever slight pressure from the foam ring being off center doesn't appear to be enough to cause this.

I would think there is a solution to repair, seeing how only a wadded piece of cloth as an edge shim appears to help (or just pressing with my finger in a corner), but I don't know how convoluted it would be to repair.

Cost is an issue for me. This is an old car and I really don't want to put much money into it. New rear speakers which work with the current setup along with mounting hardware are likely to cost upwards of $300 just for low end.

I would appreciate any advice.

P.S: The speakers are mounted in the back now with the upper midrange also re-attached (with glue as it was previously) to the foam, so it is probably impossible to take them off without destroying the foam completely. I can however try to get any additional pictures and/or even a video of the issue if that will help at all.
 
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Companies selling 2 ohm replacement speakers at reasonable prices too:



I wouldn't waste another dime trying to repair those speakers. No sense using a band-aid for something that needs surgery!

Rattles can be a number of things besides blown speakers. There are others that sell 2 ohms models too, you'll get a few options from others in here I'm sure.
 
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I would think there is a solution to repair, seeing how only a wadded piece of cloth as an edge shim appears to help (or just pressing with my finger in a corner), but I don't know how convoluted it would be to repair.
Unfortunately that buzzing comes from the voicecoil rubbing the top plate. I went through the same issue on my first subwoofer repair. I did exactly as you did to make the buzzing go away but had to tear it down and restart.
What they meant by shimming is to remove the center button called dust cap, and shim a piece of paper between the voicecoil and center pole piece. That way when you glue the surround to the frame, it will remain centered till it dries.
You can just use it as is until you get those speakers suggested by Doxquzme.
Screenshot_20231206-231243.png
 
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Unfortunately that buzzing comes from the voicecoil rubbing the top plate. I went through the same issue on my first subwoofer repair. I did exactly as you did to make the buzzing go away but had to tear it down and restart.
What they meant by shimming is to remove the center button called dust cap, and shim a piece of paper between the voicecoil and center pole piece. That way when you glue the surround to the frame, it will remain centered till it dries.
You can just use it as is until you get those speakers suggested by Doxquzme.
Thanks. What I meant when I said I don't understand/think shimming is needed is that the internal cone does not shift around at all. Because of this I don't see how removing the dust cap would have helped because the cone could not be shifted around anyway. Maybe I'm missing something in my understanding, but if the shim is used to help position the cone to center for setting, but in my case the cone didn't move anyway??

So the main reason I was trying to repair instead of replace (in addition to cost) is the form factor of the OEM speakers. With the model that you guys suggest, how am I supposed to mount those tweeters?
As you can see from my pics in the OP, my tweeters are in a custom housing bracket which sits right above the woofer.
I don't think that a different tweeter will fit in this housing (not even sure if I can try to take the current ones out without damaging the plastic housing).
So where am I supposed to fit these?
I talked to someone at Crutchfield about a similar model and they seemed to infer that they came with small brackets that I could attach somewhere else. The problem is that the rear deck (top of back seat) has limited clearance and grills built in for the current speakers. Going with a system like this it sounds like I will need to find some area where I can drill into the metal of the rear deck to mount these and hope I have clearance under the top?
I'm looking for as much of a drop in replacement that I can - in terms of modifying the vehicle.

Also, could you explain what that box is that comes with the unit? Is that an optional piece?

Apparently the issues I'm explaining on this 2007 car have been around for many years. This blog post discusses an option:

What they did was use a coaxial setup (I think because the tweeter was self contained) and re-wired it to separate the signals.

I am considering buying the exact model he uses (Alpine SPE-6090) and doing the wiring as he shows to run each speaker.

Any thoughts on these options?
 
What I meant when I said I don't understand/think shimming is needed is that the internal cone does not shift around at all. Because of this I don't see how removing the dust cap would have helped because the cone could not be shifted around anyway.
Exactly like you said, the spider does not allow the voicecoil to shift horizontally because it has zero compliance that way. The thing is that the spider does have vertical compliance which allows cone travel. This compliance also allows the coil to "twist" and cause rubbing issues. Being how close the voicecoil is to the centerpole and top plate, it is easy to be off ever so slightly without the help of a shim.
Screenshot_20231207-070542(1).png

how am I supposed to mount those tweeters?
Those tweeters should come with surface mounting cups. That allows you to mount them on any surface away from the speaker for better imaging. That said you can mount them atop the cover panel centered with the 6x9s, off to the edges of the shelf, or on the pillar panels. Only hole needed would be for the tweeter's wire.
Also, could you explain what that box is that comes with the unit? Is that an optional piece?
That is a crossover. It filters out the high signal for the 6x9 and filters out the bass for the tweeter.
What they did was use a coaxial setup (I think because the tweeter was self contained) and re-wired it to separate the signals.

I am considering buying the exact model he uses (Alpine SPE-6090) and doing the wiring as he shows to run each speaker.

Any thoughts on these options
As far as drop-in goes, a coaxial is an easier option if your original speaker only has two wires going to it. If your original speaker has 3 or 4 wires going to it, a component set is better. That way you do not have the task of separating soldered wires at the speaker.
 
Not worth dealing with. Replace the speakers. There are plenty of 6x9s with a coaxial mounted tweeter like the ones you already have.
They are not coaxial mounted. They are two separate component that are housed together. If I replace with a coax then I cannot connect the wires properly as @1aespinoza mentions above. I know there is a way to do it by splicing the wires out of the coaxial connections, but this seems like trouble as well.

I went to 4 different car audio places today, and they all basically told me the same thing (except for 1 who thought that you could wire the 2 wire coaxial right to the 4 speakers coming from the amp and not have any issue...so I discounted his opinion because he appears to be ill informed).

The options are:

1) Get a 2-way coaxial speaker and splice the tweeter wiring out as shown in the link I mentioned here:

2) Get a 2-way component and mount the tweeters elsewhere. This isn't an attractive option because there is likely not clearance to mount them anywhere underneath the read deck cover. This likely involves alteration to the metal frame (drilling) and somehow creating a hole in plastic of the car deck for the sound to come out of.

3) Get just the midrange 6x9 and try to re-use the existing bracket which houses the tweeter. Here I'd also have to clip and rewire each speakers wires separately to the harness.

4) Bring the speakers into a restoration guy who can test them and refoam/recone them. All 3 places said they do this alot - especially with Toyota's and Lexus' who have these sound systems with speakers with uncommon resistance ratings where there aren't really alot of drop-in replacements and OEM stuff is exorbitant. Unfortunately the guy isn't open until next week again but it sounds like I might be able to get them repaired for about $70 a set.

All the places recommended that #4 was the best thing to do in my case. Anything else I'm going to lose some function (either signal loss via component/coaxial wiring, or volume due to resistance issues) or else is going to require some rewiring and/or modifying the car to fit speakers that otherwise don't.

I'll try to update next week with what I've decided. If you see errors in the above, still open to suggestions.

Thanks!
 
It's quite easy to wire up coaxial speakers. Almost everyone will have the tweeter leads coming off the tweeter through the magnet to an inline cap (pictured on the NVX) or cap/coil (not pictured but the same thing) then to the main lead to the midbass part of the coaxial speaker. Even if they have stand alone crossovers, they will have the tweeter leads coming out of the tweeter via the pole vent in the magnet to a sperate set of leads, either way you just need one full range channel for that location to get all the sound to one coaxial speakers. There is no rule that says you have to replicate the factory locations with the same number of drivers etc.

1702001093061.png
 
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They are not coaxial mounted. They are two separate component that are housed together. If I replace with a coax then I cannot connect the wires properly as @1aespinoza mentions above. I know there is a way to do it by splicing the wires out of the coaxial connections, but this seems like trouble as well.

I went to 4 different car audio places today, and they all basically told me the same thing (except for 1 who thought that you could wire the 2 wire coaxial right to the 4 speakers coming from the amp and not have any issue...so I discounted his opinion because he appears to be ill informed).

The options are:

1) Get a 2-way coaxial speaker and splice the tweeter wiring out as shown in the link I mentioned here:

2) Get a 2-way component and mount the tweeters elsewhere. This isn't an attractive option because there is likely not clearance to mount them anywhere underneath the read deck cover. This likely involves alteration to the metal frame (drilling) and somehow creating a hole in plastic of the car deck for the sound to come out of.

3) Get just the midrange 6x9 and try to re-use the existing bracket which houses the tweeter. Here I'd also have to clip and rewire each speakers wires separately to the harness.

4) Bring the speakers into a restoration guy who can test them and refoam/recone them. All 3 places said they do this alot - especially with Toyota's and Lexus' who have these sound systems with speakers with uncommon resistance ratings where there aren't really alot of drop-in replacements and OEM stuff is exorbitant. Unfortunately the guy isn't open until next week again but it sounds like I might be able to get them repaired for about $70 a set.

All the places recommended that #4 was the best thing to do in my case. Anything else I'm going to lose some function (either signal loss via component/coaxial wiring, or volume due to resistance issues) or else is going to require some rewiring and/or modifying the car to fit speakers that otherwise don't.

I'll try to update next week with what I've decided. If you see errors in the above, still open to suggestions.

Thanks!
Anymore, 2 or 3 ohm speakers are very common (virtually every single GM Bose system in America consist of 2/3 ohm speakers, just say'n), as they are relative to the amplification in OEM cars trying to get louder performance from inferior speakers and hardy but relatively low powered amplification.

Just get the 2 ohm coaxial drivers and put them in there respective locations and feed them on full range lead, good to go. $70 to get those old beaters repaired is a waste of money.
 
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Anymore, 2 or 3 ohm speakers are very common (virtually every single GM Bose system in America consist of 2/3 ohm speakers, just say'n), as they are relative to the amplification in OEM cars trying to get louder performance from inferior speakers and hardy but relatively low powered amplification.

Just get the 2 ohm coaxial drivers and put them in there respective locations and feed them on full range lead, good to go. $70 to get those old beaters repaired is a waste of money.
Apologies, I don't know what you mean by "full range lead", as I don't think I have one based on my understanding of my system. Again, if you haven't looked at the link I provided, please take a quick glance as it explains exactly my issue and this guys solution. I'm pretty sure that this is what you are recommending 2 posts above where you show the picture. Basically i have to clip the tweeter wires and run them separately? :


Without having to remove anything else from my vehicle other than the rear deck what I have is 4 wires going out to 2 speakers...2 to the midrange 2 to the tweeter. So I understand those steps in the blog post above, but I'm not sure what you mean when you just say "full range lead"..are you replying to the only 2 connections on the coaxial? My understanding (based partially on the post I link) is that:

a) you have 4 wires coming from the amp to these speakers (2 to each), but the coaxial speaker normally takes only 2 wires
b) because of this, and if you don't follow the post you won't get the two different ranges coming from the 2 sets of 2 wires.

So, to be clear, you suggest I follow the method in the post where I need to clip and wire the tweeters separately?
He recommends the Alpine SPE-6090 speakers which I can get for about $70, but the resistance on those isn't clear to me. Some literature says 4 ohm, but others say 2/4 and I'm not sure what that means.

If you could tell me specifically which affordable 2 ohm coaxial you suggesting instead of the other options.
The only 2-ohm coaxial 2-way 6x9 I can come up with are the Power Bass PowerBass OE-692T.

Thanks again for your advice.
 
Okay, lets back it up a bit. "Full-range" leads are a speaker wire that carries the entire "full range" signal from the head unit. I am assuming they are both full range from the head unit prior to any cap/crossover and in this case, either one or the other can be sent to the coaxial and that little cap in the diagram I posted, will prevent the lows from going to the tweeter. The rest will be provided by the midbass driver (5.25, 6.5 or 6x9) as they are usually designed to roll of naturally at the crossover point where the tweeter picks up. If the lead from the HU is full range, then you only need to use one of those leads on a pair of coaxials. This applies to comps too as that crossover supplied spits the frequency after the full range signal is provided via either wire. One is used, the other is just ignored. The primary reason that you have two wires is that they are split to different locations. I may be wrong, but I would think the primary speaker lead should suffice in either scenario.

As for comps or coaxial, they are seen by the amp as one speaker as the frequencies are split by the crossover, prior to getting to either driver in that 2-way speaker. That rear 6x9 Jbl is a 2-way that instead of the tweeter being mounted coaxially, it is mounted in the grill or on a brace across the top of the speaker frame, same thing, that design, a coaxial design or a separate midbass/tweeter component sets, all are simply 2-way speakers.

With that in mind, and to keep the set-up simple, run a pair of 3 ohm 5.25" or slim/shallow mount 6.5" coaxials in the front doors.


and these in the rears:


The only other option (and the preferable one at that) I see is to run the 6x9s with comps up front using something like these JBL component woofers in the door and the tweeters either surface mounted in the upper door, (very easy, little modification)


In all these scenarios, you only need to run one of those full range leads (one for each corner of the vehicle) to the main coaxial set or to the crossovers on the comps, ( the crossover then has two leads, one designated to the tweeter and the other to the woofer on the comps.
 
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the internal cone does not shift around at all.
But they absolutely do, and the wiggle room you have in the magnetic gap is only a few thousandths of an inch tolerance before you wind up in trouble. I personally wouldn't even bother trying to repair a stock speaker at all, but it's quite easy to misalign a coil when repairing/replacing a surround and short of replacing the surround again or pulling it up and re-gluing there's no fix.

That said, the coil former may be cracked/bent/damaged somehow and then even if it were aligned true you'd get rubbing and if the triple joint were failing (where the coil former, cone, and spider meet) or if the spider were separating from the frame or tearing that would also cause buzzing at any excursion.

It may have been instructional to test the speaker at low volume with the ruined surround removed to see if it weren't something else wrong.
 
Okay, lets back it up a bit. "...
I really appreciate the help, but a lot of what you are saying is still greek to me. In addition to the overall terminology not something I have experience with, it is difficult to answer your questions because I simply do not know how the car is wired, and there is not a lot of information published. Short of me ripping out the entire car and checking the wiring myself, I am relying on others who have done similar scenarios with this exact same vehicle. This is why I linked the post I did several times. He states in it:
In order for these speakers to work properly in these vehicles you will need to wire the tweeter and the mid-range independently. Because the output going to the factory tweeter and mid-range speaker is already crossed over, if you just connect one pair of the factory speaker wires to the new Alpine speaker you will either get just the high frequencies or just the low frequencies playing out of your new speaker, depending on what pair you connect. You can't just connect both pairs of factory speaker wires together to get full range, you would need some sort of summing module. I have already identified the wires in this vehicle "Red" wire is the mid- range speaker negative and the "yellow" is the mid-range positive. You can then cut the tweeter wires off the main terminals on the new Alpine speaker.

So with that being said, and hoping his description answers more than I have been able to, does all your information from the last post still stand? If so, I will re-read it again and try to understand it to the best of my ability, but on the surface it would seem that some/much of what you are stating is in contradiction to what this blog post says.

thanks.
 
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BenH

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