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Help with JBL speaker repair - refoam gone wrong?
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<blockquote data-quote="Water Bear" data-source="post: 8865002" data-attributes="member: 673826"><p>I'm late to the party here, but I don't see any reason you can't do exactly what was done in the link you shared there. It doesn't sound too confusing to me. Your factory system is crossed over somewhere "upstream" of the speakers, so you get 4 wires to the factory speakers - two are the signal to the midbass, two are the signal to the tweeters. Take the factory plug that goes to your blown speakers, cut it, wire to the appropriate wires coming out of an aftermarket speaker (2 to woofer, 2 to tweeter) and you're off to the races.</p><p></p><p>The part about this which is unusual is that 99% of factory speaker systems provide a full range signal on 2 lines that are crossed over at the speaker. So for most cars, 2 wires go into a box (or more likely an RLC circuit literally glued on the basket of the woofer) which splits it into 2 sets of 2 output wires.</p><p></p><p>TL;DR be brave, follow your own link, and I don't see why that wouldn't work with a pair of aftermarket coaxials, assuming the aftermarket speakers fully fit under your rear deck (check the clearance).</p><p></p><p>Don't bother trying to repair your factory speakers unless it absolutely comes down to that. They appear to be about the cheapest kind of paper cone you can get. As others have said, to do the job right you have to shim when you do the repair, and it's not going to be worth all that effort and expense to repair speakers which were sub-par to begin with. Go for the upgrade. Most aftermarkets come with rubber surrounds anyway which will tend to resist weathering better than cheap foam-on-paper.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Water Bear, post: 8865002, member: 673826"] I'm late to the party here, but I don't see any reason you can't do exactly what was done in the link you shared there. It doesn't sound too confusing to me. Your factory system is crossed over somewhere "upstream" of the speakers, so you get 4 wires to the factory speakers - two are the signal to the midbass, two are the signal to the tweeters. Take the factory plug that goes to your blown speakers, cut it, wire to the appropriate wires coming out of an aftermarket speaker (2 to woofer, 2 to tweeter) and you're off to the races. The part about this which is unusual is that 99% of factory speaker systems provide a full range signal on 2 lines that are crossed over at the speaker. So for most cars, 2 wires go into a box (or more likely an RLC circuit literally glued on the basket of the woofer) which splits it into 2 sets of 2 output wires. TL;DR be brave, follow your own link, and I don't see why that wouldn't work with a pair of aftermarket coaxials, assuming the aftermarket speakers fully fit under your rear deck (check the clearance). Don't bother trying to repair your factory speakers unless it absolutely comes down to that. They appear to be about the cheapest kind of paper cone you can get. As others have said, to do the job right you have to shim when you do the repair, and it's not going to be worth all that effort and expense to repair speakers which were sub-par to begin with. Go for the upgrade. Most aftermarkets come with rubber surrounds anyway which will tend to resist weathering better than cheap foam-on-paper. [/QUOTE]
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Help with JBL speaker repair - refoam gone wrong?
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