How should I wire my speakers?

[Pono76]

Hi I have 6 6x9s wired parallel to a 4ch amp so 3 6x9s to one ch. I'm trying to turn the gain up on it so they become louder but it just distorts when I turn up the gain, I was wondering if I wired them in series would it be better? Since it less power usage so I can turn up the gain more. Sorry if this doesn't make sense I just want them to be louder ?

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

6 6x9's?? In what vehicle? Where are they mounted? What amp? That gain isn't a volume knob...if you want/need louder, sounds like you need a more powerful amp than what you have.

 

[Pono76]

6 6x9's?? In what vehicle? Where are they mounted? What amp? That gain isn't a volume knob...if you want/need louder, sounds like you need a more powerful amp than what you have.

It's a 2014 Nissan Altima, mounted in the back seat head rest by the back windshield in a custom box wall, all wired to a Precision Power PPI BA1000.4, I was thinking about getting 2 4" super tweeters and 2 8" pro mods to replace those 6x9s.. in your opinion what would be louder?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

It's a 2014 Nissan Altima, mounted in the back seat head rest by the back windshield in a custom box wall, all wired to a Precision Power PPI BA1000.4, I was thinking about getting 2 4" super tweeters and 2 8" pro mods to replace those 6x9s.. in your opinion what would be louder?

6x9s arent the way to get loud. The pro audio mids and tweeters like what you are planning are the way to get loud however they will sound like complete sh*t unless you have A proper active capable head unit.

Also thats the garbage line of PPI, only does half rated power, if you want real power get the ppi 900.4, bridge that for the mids and bridge your BA1000.4 for the tweeters. You will end up to have about 450 watts per mid, and about 120 per tweeter should get you real loud. Always concentrate power on a pair of quality mids and tweeters in your case you'd want high sensitivity aka 98 db or higher and good power handling as well.

 

[Pono76]

6x9s arent the way to get loud. The pro audio mids and tweeters like what you are planning are the way to get loud however they will sound like complete sh*t unless you have A proper active capable head unit.
Also thats the garbage line of PPI, only does half rated power, if you want real power get the ppi 900.4, bridge that for the mids and bridge your BA1000.4 for the tweeters. You will end up to have about 450 watts per mid, and about 120 per tweeter should get you real loud. Always concentrate power on a pair of quality mids and tweeters in your case you'd want high sensitivity aka 98 db or higher and good power handling as well.

Thank you for your help and what do you mean by a active capable head unit?

Is there any alternative route I could go? I am sure I won't be able to run three amps with the system I currently have.. I'll just list it

Head unit: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-jSsKHq8ROc9/p_130X1800S/Pioneer-AVH-X1800S.html

Eq: alpine g320

Front stage: pioneer components 60rms each

6 6x9s 60 rms each

Highs amp: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_77167_Precision-Power-PPI-BA1000.4.html

Sub amp: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_77167_Precision-Power-PPI-BA1000.4.html

Sub: sundown sa-12

My goal is to have louder mids and highs well louder vocals.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for your help and what do you mean by a active capable head unit?Is there any alternative route I could go? I am sure I won't be able to run three amps with the system I currently have.. I'll just list it

Head unit: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-jSsKHq8ROc9/p_130X1800S/Pioneer-AVH-X1800S.html

Eq: alpine g320

Front stage: pioneer components 60rms each

6 6x9s 60 rms each

Highs amp: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_77167_Precision-Power-PPI-BA1000.4.html

Sub amp: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_77167_Precision-Power-PPI-BA1000.4.html

Sub: sundown sa-12

My goal is to have louder mids and highs well louder vocals.

your goal is to have something so loud that you can be heard several football fields away while having it sound smooth and pleasant to listen to all at the same time.

Active means being able to assign crossover points and slopes basically telling your mid to only play mid frequencies and tweeters to only play tweeter frequencies while being able to smoothly blend mids and tweets together. Your pioneer 1800bs is capable of doing this, you just need to factory reset the head unit and choose network mode.

Get rid of that alpine equalizer, its doing more harm then good especially if you do the pro audio mids and tweets route. Literally kills your sound stage, kills your blend, kills everything thats going good for you with the head unit you have which is vastly superior to that alpine EQ if you know how to use your head unit properly and do a proper tune.

If you dont want to run more amps then just get a much more powerful 4 channel amp and sell that ppi 1000.4 amp. That only does 40 watts per channel at best. get a 900.4 phantom ppi That amp model does real power and should be the only line of ppi you buy. The BA series are pure cr@p.

 

[Pono76]

your goal is to have something so loud that you can be heard several football fields away while having it sound smooth and pleasant to listen to all at the same time.
Active means being able to assign crossover points and slopes basically telling your mid to only play mid frequencies and tweeters to only play tweeter frequencies while being able to smoothly blend mids and tweets together. Your pioneer 1800bs is capable of doing this, you just need to factory reset the head unit and choose network mode.

Get rid of that alpine equalizer, its doing more harm then good especially if you do the pro audio mids and tweets route. Literally kills your sound stage, kills your blend, kills everything thats going good for you with the head unit you have which is vastly superior to that alpine EQ if you know how to use your head unit properly and do a proper tune.

If you dont want to run more amps then just get a much more powerful 4 channel amp and sell that ppi 1000.4 amp. That only does 40 watts per channel at best. get a 900.4 phantom ppi That amp model does real power and should be the only line of ppi you buy. The BA series are pure cr@p.

Definitely will get that amp, how would I wire the tweeters and mid?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Definitely will get that amp, how would I wire the tweeters and mid?

tweeters on channel 1 and 2, mids on channels 3 and 4. Make sure your head unit is in network mode and make sure your RCAs are on the right spots.

When you go to network mode there is no longer front, rear and sub. It will only be high, mid and low. High = tweeters, mid = midrange, low = subwoofer.