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I don't know if I need a high output alternator or not
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<blockquote data-quote="mastershake575" data-source="post: 8815883" data-attributes="member: 665251"><p>If you want to max your amplifiers and do true power then yes you will need an alternator.</p><p></p><p>Most stock alts barely charge at idle and have alternators that are designed to be pretty close to what it needs to physically run the car + accessories (especially sedans). For example, it wouldn't shock me if your accords OEM alternator was designed to only have a buffer of 25 or 30 available amps of power once you factor efficiency rating, the power needed to run the car and its accessories. Amplifiers (especially in a music setting) don't max out the rated power but at the same time you can see where adding over 100 amps of power from both amplifiers would be an issue</p><p></p><p>Big 3 won't do anything, the stock OEM wires far exceed the current needed for the stock alternator.</p><p></p><p>Batteries are band-aids which I'm not a fan of. They act as a buffer when you pull more current than what you can produce but once you start pulling substantially more than what it can handle then your voltage will drop.</p><p></p><p>I'd rather drop $350-400 on an alternator and just be done with it (max your amplifiers, never have to worry about voltage, have room for possible future upgrades) then do what a lot of people mistakenly do which is spend $250-300 on some band aid AGM battery + capacitor combo.</p><p> The ELD. My previous car (Honda) was only 2 years older than the topic creators and it was a huge issue.</p><p></p><p>I would have to drive with the headlights on during the day because that was the only way for my cars voltage regulator to kick on enough to get the full 14 volts. I eventually got an alternator through singer alternators, and it came with a bypass (he basically added a resistor to the sense wire so it tricked the ELD into always thinking the car needed a full load).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mastershake575, post: 8815883, member: 665251"] If you want to max your amplifiers and do true power then yes you will need an alternator. Most stock alts barely charge at idle and have alternators that are designed to be pretty close to what it needs to physically run the car + accessories (especially sedans). For example, it wouldn't shock me if your accords OEM alternator was designed to only have a buffer of 25 or 30 available amps of power once you factor efficiency rating, the power needed to run the car and its accessories. Amplifiers (especially in a music setting) don't max out the rated power but at the same time you can see where adding over 100 amps of power from both amplifiers would be an issue Big 3 won't do anything, the stock OEM wires far exceed the current needed for the stock alternator. Batteries are band-aids which I'm not a fan of. They act as a buffer when you pull more current than what you can produce but once you start pulling substantially more than what it can handle then your voltage will drop. I'd rather drop $350-400 on an alternator and just be done with it (max your amplifiers, never have to worry about voltage, have room for possible future upgrades) then do what a lot of people mistakenly do which is spend $250-300 on some band aid AGM battery + capacitor combo. The ELD. My previous car (Honda) was only 2 years older than the topic creators and it was a huge issue. I would have to drive with the headlights on during the day because that was the only way for my cars voltage regulator to kick on enough to get the full 14 volts. I eventually got an alternator through singer alternators, and it came with a bypass (he basically added a resistor to the sense wire so it tricked the ELD into always thinking the car needed a full load). [/QUOTE]
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I don't know if I need a high output alternator or not
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