I just did something super noooob help

Read the OP's question. Continuity doesn't apply here. A DMM on continuity won't tell you which set of wires goes to the mid and which is the tweeter.

 
Read the OP's question. Continuity doesn't apply here. A DMM on continuity won't tell you which set of wires goes to the mid and which is the tweeter.
ummmm, actually it will because if theres a connection, the DMM will see it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

0/OL=no connection

anything other than that=connection

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
ummmm, actually it will because if theres a connection, the DMM will see it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
0/OL=no connection

anything other than that=connection

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
True, but only if he yanks one of the speakers out to test both ends of the wire, which is the hard way to go about it. A faster test would be to hook one of the leads to the tweeter output on the crossover to find out which is which.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 
Read the OP's question. Continuity doesn't apply here. A DMM on continuity won't tell you which set of wires goes to the mid and which is the tweeter.
true.

ummmm, actually it will because if theres a connection, the DMM will see it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

0/OL=no connection

anything other than that=connection

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
true but the batter pop method is mutch easyer if the speaker is not mounted and also depending on how far you're dmm, dvom, teast leads reach..

True, but only if he yanks one of the speakers out to test both ends of the wire, which is the hard way to go about it. A faster test would be to hook one of the leads to the tweeter output on the crossover to find out which is which.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif
just use a 9 volt batt to pop the speakers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 
Some stupid ideas in this thread.

Use a DMM to test continuity ... one end of the DMM on one of the crossover side wires, and only one of the four wires will show resistance at the door.

 
Should buy a DMM anyway. Gotta make sure you know where your constants are and such. Get a ratshack one for $20. I've had mine for over 10 years and it's still going strong on the original batteries.

And I agree with the continuity comment. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Ur retarded. /yourself. Everyone could use a DMM it's a worthy investment, not in just car audio.
it is a worthy investment... but still NOT EVERYONE HAS ONE!! i do.. dosent make me special.... a 9 volt batter is way easyer to come by.....

so ur point is?.........................................................

Just use the 9volt
that's what ive BEEN saying!!!

 
I thought of the safest way to do this. Hook up one of the wires to the woofer.

Go in the trunk and hook up one set to the cross over.

Turn music on. If it works I'm ok.

If not hook up the other wire to the cross over, cause its the right one.

This will cause no harm to the woofer.

Repeat for other side of car.

thanks for all the suggestions

 
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