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L7S not hitting hard
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<blockquote data-quote="HardofWhoring" data-source="post: 8844517" data-attributes="member: 674149"><p>It says to use a 150amp fuse. </p><p>1500w /85% amp efficiency = 1764w / 14.4v = 122 amps. </p><p>1500w is about 122 amps draw. </p><p>1800w is 20% more 146 amps. So yeah 150 amps is the right size for that amp. </p><p></p><p>When it's hitting hard at full volume/power it's going to draw 150 amps. Then you add that to what your vehicle needs for it to run, so we're close to 300 amps draw at max. That's assuming that's your factory alternator and not already an upgraded size. If thats your factory size alt, then I would definitely be looking for an AGM battery. </p><p></p><p>As for the alt, that 150 amp draw from your amp is when it's full hitting hard. It's drawing that when hitting it's hardest at full volume. In between hits it's a lot less. It really depends on the type of music as to how much its hitting, (rap more often, rock a bit less). When it is not playing at max volume its using a less. </p><p></p><p>Assuming 150 is your factory alt size, you don't NEED to just 150 amps for a 300 amp alt. Yes you can, and that makes it easy, but a quality alt is costly and not something you want to upgrade for a little more amperage and buy a new one. Unless you listen to it at max volume, for hours on end, you could probably get away with one that's about 2/3rds of what your system maxes out at. You SHOULD be able to have no problems with a 250 alt amp. That would also require your vehicle to be maxed out: AC, EFI, COMPUTERS, playing with your windows, electric cooling fans, charging phones, headlights, turns, and just every electrical component getting used at once. </p><p></p><p>You need to also figure out what your own build is. Do you plan on adding a second or third amp down the road? If you do, THEN NOW is the time to factor in all your possible build options, and I would suggest spending the 5 or 10% more on the larger alt, instead of buying a second one at $500+. </p><p></p><p>When you buy an alternator, you need to know what the amperage output is at or near idle, and what RPM is needed for max output. Those are the numbers that are the difference between a 300 alt amp that is $200 and one that is $600. A high quality alternator will do max around 2k Rpm, and a crappy one won't be until well after 3K. If you can't get those numbers from the seller, then move on. It would also help for you to know what RPM you drive, and what your commute is like to give you a better idea of when it will be charging more.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="HardofWhoring, post: 8844517, member: 674149"] It says to use a 150amp fuse. 1500w /85% amp efficiency = 1764w / 14.4v = 122 amps. 1500w is about 122 amps draw. 1800w is 20% more 146 amps. So yeah 150 amps is the right size for that amp. When it's hitting hard at full volume/power it's going to draw 150 amps. Then you add that to what your vehicle needs for it to run, so we're close to 300 amps draw at max. That's assuming that's your factory alternator and not already an upgraded size. If thats your factory size alt, then I would definitely be looking for an AGM battery. As for the alt, that 150 amp draw from your amp is when it's full hitting hard. It's drawing that when hitting it's hardest at full volume. In between hits it's a lot less. It really depends on the type of music as to how much its hitting, (rap more often, rock a bit less). When it is not playing at max volume its using a less. Assuming 150 is your factory alt size, you don't NEED to just 150 amps for a 300 amp alt. Yes you can, and that makes it easy, but a quality alt is costly and not something you want to upgrade for a little more amperage and buy a new one. Unless you listen to it at max volume, for hours on end, you could probably get away with one that's about 2/3rds of what your system maxes out at. You SHOULD be able to have no problems with a 250 alt amp. That would also require your vehicle to be maxed out: AC, EFI, COMPUTERS, playing with your windows, electric cooling fans, charging phones, headlights, turns, and just every electrical component getting used at once. You need to also figure out what your own build is. Do you plan on adding a second or third amp down the road? If you do, THEN NOW is the time to factor in all your possible build options, and I would suggest spending the 5 or 10% more on the larger alt, instead of buying a second one at $500+. When you buy an alternator, you need to know what the amperage output is at or near idle, and what RPM is needed for max output. Those are the numbers that are the difference between a 300 alt amp that is $200 and one that is $600. A high quality alternator will do max around 2k Rpm, and a crappy one won't be until well after 3K. If you can't get those numbers from the seller, then move on. It would also help for you to know what RPM you drive, and what your commute is like to give you a better idea of when it will be charging more. [/QUOTE]
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L7S not hitting hard
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