Need help. getting hiss from C-Dsp 6x8

[awdtalon21]

Im getting a hissing sound, does not change when i change the volume from head unit. Head Unit to DSP to 2 amps. I set the gains with the smd dd1. I have checked the ground and that is not the problem. Does anyone have any ideas, get a better dsp...

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[BoomTaco64]

could be a bad/dirty power source if the hiss does not change with the volume or rpm of the vehicle. tried a power filter yet? or try a power source that is not attached to the vehicle to eliminate that possibility.

 

[awdtalon21]

I guess I don't understand whats its saying the manual, should I connect it up with 12v or a remote wire, will it kill the battery if i hook it up with a 12v wire. The remote wire is switched 12 volts right?

Page 15

https://www.minidsp.com/images/documents/C-DSP%206x8%20User%20Manual.pdf

 

[BoomTaco64]

its constant and ground. if you want to use a remote input then you will need to move the jumper inside the dsp.

 

[awdtalon21]

Sorry still don't get it, do I need to run a wire from the remote out on the dsp to my amps? Will it drain the battery if I hook up a constant to it?

 

[BoomTaco64]

no it will not drain your battery if you install the dsp correctly. the instructions are plain as day.

 

[awdtalon21]

What about the remote in and out then, do i even use them?

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

What about the remote in and out then, do i even use them?

yeah he's being vague as fuck

wire the remote in, in parallel with the rest of your remote in to your amplifiers. leave the remote out unconnected and of course terminate it safely

here's a quick primer on rem out, battery voltage is 12v, remote out voltage is 12v, remote out should only be hot(12v) when your car/headunit/etc are on. the battery positive wire should ALWAYS be reading 12v

you do not need the rem out on a dsp unless you want your amps to turn on AFTER the dsp which isnt necessary

you have noise due to a ground loop. reground your headunit and dsp, then go through the noise reduction process by eliminating equipment until you figure out where its coming from. for example, unplug the rcas into the amp and the noise is there? bad amp ground or bad amp. google for the rest

 

[awdtalon21]

yeah he's being vague as fuck
wire the remote in, in parallel with the rest of your remote in to your amplifiers. leave the remote out unconnected and of course terminate it safely

here's a quick primer on rem out, battery voltage is 12v, remote out voltage is 12v, remote out should only be hot(12v) when your car/headunit/etc are on. the battery positive wire should ALWAYS be reading 12v

you do not need the rem out on a dsp unless you want your amps to turn on AFTER the dsp which isnt necessary

you have noise due to a ground loop. reground your headunit and dsp, then go through the noise reduction process by eliminating equipment until you figure out where its coming from. for example, unplug the rcas into the amp and the noise is there? bad amp ground or bad amp. google for the rest

Thanks do I have to move the jumper, because now the amps are not turning on.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

regarding your pm, yes. you want the remote in for the DSP wired in parallel with the other blue wire remote in to your amps.

i dont know how the jumper works i suggest you reference the manual.

red/batt +12v CONSTANT

rem on +12v when the key is on

ground is ground

 

[awdtalon21]

I think i killed the dsp, by hooking it up wrong, and my amp and speakers. Well i'm not sure nor do i know where to start looking, I'm getting very little sound when running through the dsp, when i run the rcas from headunit to amp it plays fine. The door speaker pop when the amp shuts off but I don't know if the dsp is causing that too.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

I think i killed the dsp, by hooking it up wrong, and my amp and speakers. Well i'm not sure nor do i know where to start looking, I'm getting very little sound when running through the dsp, when i run the rcas from headunit to amp it plays fine. The door speaker pop when the amp shuts off but I don't know if the dsp is causing that too.

take a breath, walk away from it for a little bit and come back with a mind not so scattered about the whole thing.

its very likely you're missing something simple so just take your time

 

[awdtalon21]

Yeah, two loud pops, I have not idea if my mids/tweets work. I know the doors work. If i just run a 12v and a ground to the dsp it does not work, it cant connect to the laptop.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

it will not turn on without a 12v on the remote turn on wire. wire the 12v constant and 12v remote in parallel to verify it turns on

 

[awdtalon21]

Thank you very much wew lad, for not being a jerk to me, I got it working again I think the nvx jad800.4 amp is messed up, it pops when turning off. The hiss is still there, so I have the constant and remote coming from the head unit wiring I have those two running to the back to the dsp, do you think that's ok or is there a better way?