New Stereo will not power on

[evil_lies]

Ok, I am upgrading my head unit to a Pioneer AVH-X2800BS. I still have the stock speakers, and no sub/amp at the moment. I used solder and heat shrink on the harness, no crimp connectors or anything, but I cannot get it to power on. I have double checked my wiring and it looks complete. I am not using the Reverse, Mute or Amp wires (on the Pioneer side of the harness). I am also using a Micro Bypass to bypass the parking brake. I noticed I screwed up and ran the blue wire from it to the universal harness (not the stereo side), which is to the amp. I need to fix that, but I don't think it would keep the stereo from powering on.

I am thinking it has to be the ground. I do not have a good spot to ground to body in the dash opening, and am using the ground from the original wiring harness. I posted about that on here already, and was told that was ok. I have the ground wires from the stereo, the universal harness and the Bypass soldered together.

If you guys have any ideas why I'm not getting power, let me know. Or, if I'm not explaining things well enough, let me know what needs clarification.

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[evil_lies]

Oh, I did plug the original stereo back in to verify function. It works, so that makes me question that the ground isn't good. I mean, it has to ground somewhere, right? I'm at a loss a little bit.

 

[tommydh 10+ year member]

Maybe stupid question, but did you check the fuses if any in the new HU?

 

[garychoffmann 10+ year member]

What vehicle? Some newer vehicles need a power wire ran to fuse box

 

[evil_lies]

Sorry for the late reply. I work nights and have a newborn at home, so this project is just when I can find some time. I checked the fuse and it looks good. The car is a 2006 Mazda 3.

 

[inteva6184]

Like garychoffmann said a lot of newer vehicles dont have a 12v acc wire in the harness. My ford truck didnt so I had to find a acc wire to tap into. Red to red yellow to yellow black to black doesnt always work anymore you will need to break out a test light or meter. Also companies like idata link make harnesses that use the factory wiring so you dont have to chase down a acc wire.

 

[evil_lies]

I've seen this in a few places, but it looks like I am getting constant 12v at the harness. I'm really at a loss as to what the problem is. I've posted the factory wiring schematic if that helps. I did order the same stereo from Amazon and returned it for the same reason. The stereo box (packaging) had a hole in it like it was dropped, and I figured it was damaged. I reordered a new one, and am having the same issue.

2006 Mazda3 radio wiring diagram!

 

[inteva6184]

Like I said earlier the acc wire is the one that causes the problems. As far as I know they all have a 12v constant to keep memory the acc wire is the one that they dont all have but all aftermarket radios need. If you have ground and 12v constant that means you dont have a 12v acc. So like I said earlier break out the multi meter and check for a 12v source thats on with key on and off when they keys off. If your factory radio stayed on even with the key off until the door is open that means your acc wire is a delay acc wire. So that means that when you check with the multi meter you find the one that turns on with the key turn they key off open the door and see if it looses the 12v signal.

 

[evil_lies]

Ah, gotcha. I don't have the delay with the door, so that's one less thing to worry about. I'll have to figure out how to wire this thing then, I haven't experienced this before, the few other ones I have done were fairly simple and straight forward.

 

[evil_lies]

I think I'm going to put the + and - wires to the battery terminals just to make sure the HU powers on, and that I'm not beating a dead horse.

 

[evil_lies]

So my universal wiring harness says I have: Connected to Pioneer Harness:

12V Ignition/ACC (Red) ----> Ignition (Red)

12V Battery/Memory (Yellow) ----> Power regardless of Ignnition switch position (Yellow)

Ilummination (Orange) ----> Lighting switch terminal (Orange/White)

Ground (Black) ----> Ground (Black)

I am not using the power antenna, amp ground, or phone mute wires on the universal harness (amp turn on goes to MicroBypass, as does parking brake, and tapped into ground).

On the Pioneer side of the harness I am not using the system remote control, reverse gear signal or mute wires.

All speaker wires are properly connected (and shouldn't effect power I wouldn't think).

*System is otherwise stock, with no amp or sub at this point. It has 5x7 factory speakers in each door and component tweeters up front.

 

[evil_lies]

Ok, I applied direct current from the battery to the + & - leads and it will not power on. Can I call this unit defective?

 

[mazdakid 5,000+ posts]

Did you try just red and black from the harness directly? You need yellow and red together to + and black to -.

 

[evil_lies]

Did you try just red and black from the harness directly? You need yellow and red together to + and black to -.

Crap, no I just did yellow to positive with a jumper wire from the harness (i was trying to avoid cutting it up). Of course the black wire to the negative terminal as well. I guess I'll cut my harness to see if I can get that connection to work.

 

[evil_lies]

Ok, I cut the yellow and red wires and used an alligator clip to hold them together as they are a little short (length). I put the other end of the alligator cable to the + terminal and black to ground and I still have no power.