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New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8715303" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>DD amps are known to be very strong. You should be bumping up to 1/0 gauge cable for a run back from the battery, you may run #4 gauge to your mids and highs amp but do run 1/0 into the mono block. I use the orange "ultra flex" cable from weldingsupply.com with good results. Sometimes you can get the 00 gauge for just a little bit more than the 1/0 depending on what sales they're running.</p><p></p><p>Alpine Type R and X are both great drivers. Conventional wisdom is to not put mids and highs in the rear, it's mostly wasted money. I'd throw the rear 6x9s right out and drop the money you save into a good round of sound deadening for the front speaker locations you'll get better sound in the long run that way. Might switch the 4 channel to some 2 channel version if you go that route.</p><p></p><p>While Type R subs are good for big box store brand you can typically do better for the price. What's your goal here and precisely how much space do you have for a box? You can build your own box, right? Pairing sub(s) with correct airspace and port tuning is absolutely critical and you're at the point power-wise where there's several single subs that could take the power you have on tap so figure out what you want to do, how much space you want to sacrifice, and plan from there. The DD sub lineup is top tier build quality (at least their US made lines), does your DD dealer have any of that he can get you into a package deal? They're a little spendy but they perform as advertised (in a good box) and hold resale value better than the Alpine subs will. Really even DD's import stuff (redline series) is pretty impressive but if you're going to buy their woofers may as well buy the stuff they build in house.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8715303, member: 614752"] DD amps are known to be very strong. You should be bumping up to 1/0 gauge cable for a run back from the battery, you may run #4 gauge to your mids and highs amp but do run 1/0 into the mono block. I use the orange "ultra flex" cable from weldingsupply.com with good results. Sometimes you can get the 00 gauge for just a little bit more than the 1/0 depending on what sales they're running. Alpine Type R and X are both great drivers. Conventional wisdom is to not put mids and highs in the rear, it's mostly wasted money. I'd throw the rear 6x9s right out and drop the money you save into a good round of sound deadening for the front speaker locations you'll get better sound in the long run that way. Might switch the 4 channel to some 2 channel version if you go that route. While Type R subs are good for big box store brand you can typically do better for the price. What's your goal here and precisely how much space do you have for a box? You can build your own box, right? Pairing sub(s) with correct airspace and port tuning is absolutely critical and you're at the point power-wise where there's several single subs that could take the power you have on tap so figure out what you want to do, how much space you want to sacrifice, and plan from there. The DD sub lineup is top tier build quality (at least their US made lines), does your DD dealer have any of that he can get you into a package deal? They're a little spendy but they perform as advertised (in a good box) and hold resale value better than the Alpine subs will. Really even DD's import stuff (redline series) is pretty impressive but if you're going to buy their woofers may as well buy the stuff they build in house. [/QUOTE]
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New to modifying car audio systems; would like some help verifying my selection of components.
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