Seeking 10" SQ on low budget

[neonblack 10+ year member]

Looking for 10" for sound quality, preferably 200W-350W RMS and low budget.

Saw this MTX Thunder (225W RMS). Thoughts?

MTX THUNDER 4500 T4510-04 SPECIFICATIONS Pdf Download.

Click to read more...

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

This woofer is geared towards sound quality but its a bit more then 100, well worth it though. Image Dynamics ID10 D2 V.3 (id10d2v3) 10" Dual 2 ohm ID V.3 Sub

This woofer is Also more sound quality oriented the mtx and its cheaper Dayton Audio DCS255-4 10" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

CDT Audio HD-1000CF - We have this in stock today. It's appropriate for a small sealed enclosure, 0.7 cubes.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

How about more of a smaller sub size?

 

[neonblack 10+ year member]

How about more of a smaller sub size?

I have two 8" Kickers (150W RMS ea.) and want to replace them with one 10" for deeper bass. Would like more output than the 8"s. I listen to classic/heavy rock.

Can the tuning frequency be below the driver resonance frequency? Are there any rules to use with respect to the relation of these two frequencies (how close they can be to each other, etc.) or not?

Saw a Rockford Punch-1 250W RMS that looked beefy (compared to MTX). What about Alpine or Sony?

PUNCH Subwoofers - P1S4-10 - Rockford Fosgate®

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

I have two 8" Kickers (150W RMS ea.) and want to replace them with one 10" for deeper bass. Would like more output than the 8"s. I listen to classic/heavy rock.
Can the tuning frequency be below the driver resonance frequency? Are there any rules to use with respect to the relation of these two frequencies (how close they can be to each other, etc.) or not?

Saw a Rockford Punch-1 250W RMS that looked beefy (compared to MTX). What about Alpine or Sony?

PUNCH Subwoofers - P1S4-10 - Rockford Fosgate®

Sounds like your box isnt right or your tuning isnt right. 2x8's have more cone area than 1x10".

 

[neonblack 10+ year member]

Sounds like your box isnt right or your tuning isnt right. 2x8's have more cone area than 1x10".

They are in separate sealed fiberglass enclosures w/a little fill. Kicker recommends 0.5-1.2 sq ft sealed enclosure per sub (1.2 sq ft providing best SQ and flat response). My boxes are between 1.0-1.2 sq ft each. Driven by Kenwood 7201 (150W RMS @ 4 ohms, 2-channel). Sound is not poor. Output and depth could be slightly improved, imo.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

you wont get anything satisfactory with a sealed box on that little amount of power. That amp is meant for door speakers, its not a proper subwoofer amp. You can either go ported or get a dedicated monoblock amp to properly power subs. Rockford fosgate and sony's lower lines are weak in the quality department and sony is pure junk.

 

[fatboytyler]

This woofer is geared towards sound quality but its a bit more then 100, well worth it though. Image Dynamics ID10 D2 V.3 (id10d2v3) 10" Dual 2 ohm ID V.3 Sub
This woofer is Also more sound quality oriented the mtx and its cheaper Dayton Audio DCS255-4 10" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm

Ran two of those Daytons in my old Autotubas and they are excellent SQ woofers and got loud for what they are.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

If you want a lot more noticeable output, get a 500-750 watts rms monoblock and the D2 version of this sub. You'll be having a ton more output and still sound great. SSA Shop - Sundown Audio E8 sub woofer Far better then any mainstream junk at that price range.

 

[erod 10+ year member]

I have a 12 inch jl w1 for 75 shipped pm me if interested

 

[neonblack 10+ year member]

If you want a lot more noticeable output, get a 500-750 watts rms monoblock and the D2 version of this sub.

I'm afraid if I use a sub over 500W I'm going to run into battery issues and I want to avoid that. I have a premium battery (4-cylinder 2002 Grand Am) but my audio system will be around 1000W total and I don't want to risk the electrical system. I tried the Big 3 upgrade several yrs ago and within a month my battery was dead. Everything was connected properly and my audio system was only around 800W total. (My enclosures are more like 0.70 sq ft not 1.0-1.2 sq ft.) Good sub suggestions, thanks.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm afraid if I use a sub over 500W I'm going to run into battery issues and I want to avoid that. I have a premium battery (4-cylinder 2002 Grand Am) but my audio system will be around 1000W total and I don't want to risk the electrical system. I tried the Big 3 upgrade several yrs ago and within a month my battery was dead. Everything was connected properly and my audio system was only around 800W total. (My enclosures are more like 0.70 sq ft not 1.0-1.2 sq ft.) Good sub suggestions, thanks.

Something is not right because most stock systems can handle up to 1200 watts just fine with the big 3 upgrade. Your car has a 105 amp alt which is not bad at all. There are underlying electrical issues that must be addressed here.

 

[neonblack 10+ year member]

Something is not right because most stock systems can handle up to 1200 watts just fine with the big 3 upgrade. Your car has a 105 amp alt which is not bad at all. There are underlying electrical issues that must be addressed here.

When I had the Big 3 problem it was with my old car - 1998 Sunfire (and I think the battery was 4 yrs old - close to end of its life). I have not tried the Big 3 on my 2002 Grand Am. Sorry for confusion.

These are enclosures I have for my 8"s. I molded them to Sunfire rear floor corners. Now have them sitting in my Grand Am. Crude but that's where I wanted the subs placed, my amps are in the trunk. I have two 6.5" ADS comps (100W RMS) in front and two in backseat side panels.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

you might just be better off with a proper ported enclosure. As of now your subs have nothing to load off of which kills output(google up subwoofer loading). You should be able to run more power fine in the future if there's nothing wrong with the electricals in this car. Have a digital multi-meter in hand and monitor your voltages.