Skar VXF 15 vs ZVX-15V2

[Ven0m]

Did you check your voltage at the amp? What size power wire are you running to that amp. What vehicle again?

Either 14.5v or 12.5-13.2 depends on if gm regulator is on or not. 2009 Saturn aura ran 0ga to a second battery in back and 4ga from that battery to the amp, because that's the connection type at the amp.

 

[Ven0m]

[QUOTE="Ven0m, post: 8686978, . Could the amp not have enough power?

Yeah
Stock electrical? Also can you provide a link to the box you're using? Answer bcotrells questions too
[/QUOTE]
Stock electrical, have the stuff to do big 3 haven't gotten to it yet. Optima yellowtop and a small audio battery in the rear. I'll get a pic of box in a sec

 

[Ven0m]

Yeah
Stock electrical? Also can you provide a link to the box you're using? Answer bcotrells questions too

Stock electrical, have the stuff to do big 3 haven't gotten to it yet. Optima yellowtop and a small audio battery in the rear. I'll get a pic of box in a sec
[/QUOTE]

 

[Ven0m]

Yeah
Stock electrical? Also can you provide a link to the box you're using? Answer bcotrells questions too

Stock electrical, have the stuff to do big 3 haven't gotten to it yet. Optima yellowtop and a small audio battery in the rear. I'll get a pic of box in a sec
[/QUOTE]

 

[Ven0m]

Stock electrical, have the stuff to do big 3 haven't gotten to it yet. Optima yellowtop and a small audio battery in the rear. I'll get a pic of box in a sec

[/QUOTE]
Atrend box, other than that no marking for size or model number

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Shitty prefab box forward firing in a trunk, not sealed off.

3 immediate problems:

1. Shitty prefab box is not good for overall output or useful bandwidth.

2. Forward firing said shitty prefab box is causing major cancellation

3. Amp is too small to power those subs and the electrical system can barely support current amp as it is.

 

[shredder2]

Local guy I saw last week had 2 12" P3's on a T1500-1bdcp... ($$$$... you get what you pay for sometimes... Jmo)...in what looked like 4.5-5ft3 net tuned low (30hzish) and it sounded decent to me.
I agree with the power and box/install being the issue. That Atrend probably won't let those subs go low well and after impedance rise you're probably seeing way under rated power.
A larger enclosure can compensate for underpowering somewhat but be peakier around tuning so it's a tradeoff, and having the enclosure face in the center of the vehicle without sealing off the thing is not optimum.
I'd add power & stiffen up the electrical after fixing the enclosure/orientation 1st if it was me.

 

[fithwheel]

I bet the Rockford fosgate t1500 is a lot more efficient then that audiopipe
Curious if you're amping your mids and highs as well?
If you don't want to or don't have the budget for electrical improvements I'd build a box for 1 of those subs get some of the load off your electrical. It's really not too difficult to build a box. That would your cheapest quick fix. Either way you need an enclosure

 

[Ven0m]

I bet the Rockford fosgate t1500 is a lot more efficient then that audiopipe
Curious if you're amping your mids and highs as well?
If you don't want to or don't have the budget for electrical improvements I'd build a box for 1 of those subs get some of the load off your electrical. It's really not too difficult to build a box. That would your cheapest quick fix. Either way you need an enclosure

Yeah well 3 of the 4 speakers are amped I haven't found a way to wire through the grommet on the driver side.. I was actually planning on picking up a router and jigsaw and trying to tackle it.

 

[BCotrell]

Quick loogle search indicates current alt is around 125amps. Not terribly small for a sedan.

-big three will ensure delivery of max amps from alt
-4 guage to 1/0 input adapters will allow 1/0
Into that amp, short run though so may not be vital
-turn your enclosure around firing to trunk. should eliminate some cancellation and improve sound short of building a custom enclosure
- a taramps md3k woukd be a solid upgrade at $225 and solid for your electrical. Even If you upgrade subs that amp will power 750 watt rms subs.

 

[fithwheel]

Yeah well 3 of the 4 speakers are amped I haven't found a way to wire through the grommet on the driver side.. I was actually planning on picking up a router and jigsaw and trying to tackle it.

That's a little much on your stock electrical the audiopipe isn't the most efficient either.
Unless you're running a lot of power I'd use the stock speaker wire on the drivers side to get you through the garment. It's probably 16 guage 100 watts or less should be fine.
Good that you're going to build an enclosure. Anyone that has a passion for car audio and is capable of building a simple style type enclosure should tackle it imo. It'll give ya a better understanding of how important the enclosure is to the subs performance and how the sub works with different air space port size and power.
Learning how to use a design software program would be beneficial as well. Personally I use bass box pro but Winisd is free and good enough for someone starting out.
Torres box calculator and ultimate car audio app might be helpful too.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

I'd build the biggest box that'll fit in your trunk tuned to 33-36hz, with a good 14-16 cubic inches of port per cube and let her wang.

 

[Ven0m]

That's a little much on your stock electrical the audiopipe isn't the most efficient either.
Unless you're running a lot of power I'd use the stock speaker wire on the drivers side to get you through the garment. It's probably 16 guage 100 watts or less should be fine.
Good that you're going to build an enclosure. Anyone that has a passion for car audio and is capable of building a simple style type enclosure should tackle it imo. It'll give ya a better understanding of how important the enclosure is to the subs performance and how the sub works with different air space port size and power.
Learning how to use a design software program would be beneficial as well. Personally I use bass box pro but Winisd is free and good enough for someone starting out.
Torres box calculator and ultimate car audio app might be helpful too.

Problem is I can't find an accurate wiring diagram for it, I cut a wire that was supposed to be for that speaker, then car goes in limp mode for traction control lol so idk. I ran the front passanger with ease however the driver side is a tricky one

 

[Ven0m]

Problem is I can't find an accurate wiring diagram for it, I cut a wire that was supposed to be for that speaker, then car goes in limp mode for traction control lol so idk. I ran the front passanger with ease however the driver side is a tricky one

Also the amp for the door speakers is skar 150.4 and the new speakers are 100rms so I wouldnt really want to use stock

 

[fithwheel]

A multimeter can be a handy tool to have. Could be used to check your voltage at your amplifiers and checking for continuity on wires.