Trying to go full Active, Need a little help

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bradl79
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ok i am trying to go full active, got everything going, but when i pull my tweeters off the crossover and run it straight to the amp, i get a whine when i accelerate to about 1k to 2k rpms, i had already put a 10uf-100v-electrolytic-non-polarized-crossover-capacitor inline and it toned it down just a little bit, i am using the same wires already running to the amp to connect directly to the tweets, so i have no idea what to tshoot since it works just fine when its on the crossover

 
Make sure you have a solid ground..Your sub amp, mids/highs amp, everything with power should lead to the same ground. Clean off any paint or debris to make sure it's a clean connection.. Otherwise you may never get rid of that accelerating alternator whine. I had the same whine on my tweeter for the longest time until I took the time to do that. It was driving my crazy too..

 
i don't have the whine when its connected to the crossover, and i checked all grounds and i have my grounds on a distro block and the main lead is clean.

 
Is your AC on? I noticed once I installed my MS-8 into my truck when my AC was on I could hear a **** whine... never fixed it just got over it as it was not audible once music was playing

 
no ac was off, i did just install my ms8 and i don't get a whine with the ac on, I have not tried to move it active yet, but i don't think the ms8 would help with a whine though, but i guess i could try.

 
where you mount the 4 channel amps count too, the bottom of the amp is also a ground, mount it on wood.
both amps are on wood also, nothing metal near RCA's or anything, but is there a reason why when i take the tweets off the crossover it whines but it doesn't when it is on the crossover?

 
what kind of voodoo is this?
I found that out the hard way back then when i mount my 4 channel amp to the rear seats of my corolla and had alternator wine caused by the feet touching the metal back of the rear seats. Put a sheet of mdf on it and problem was gone.

 
Any DC circuit needs to have every contact point performing well. That means not only do we need a great ground connection close to the equipment, but the grounds under the hood need to be as conductive as possible. Even if you don't replace or supplement the battery ground wires, you may hear a reduction in noise by cleaning the wire terminals and their contact points down to bare shiny metal. A protective layer should be put over the tightened connections to keep oxygen and moisture out. There are specialty products at your auto parts store for this, although you can use spray paint, silicone, or grease.

An extra measure to reduce voltage drop is to add a parallel ground cable from the existing amplifier ground point up to the chassis where your primary battery is grounded.

 
all grounds are bare metal, sanded all paint off from the ones coming from the amps and also the stock (coming from battery and engine block) which i added 1/0 gauge cables to the grounds, but made sure they are clean.

 
Really nothing I can say but to triple check everything again.. There might be a loose ground... Look at every detail you can to make sure it's nice and secure. Take consideration of what's been said on here, if you've done everything, then there should not be a problem.. Believe me, I've been through what you've been through.. I remember after I made a good ground, I thought everything was good until I noticed the whine came back... Found out it was a little loose and no problem ever since.

 
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bradl79

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