What kind of clear coat should I use on my box? What do you use?

[MrAcd]

So I built my box a little bit ago and i finally got around to painting, i got a custom paint job on it done by me and my cousin that turned out really good.Now i want to protect that paint job with a nice clear coat. Were this becomes kinda weird is that i need the box to removable and for me to be able to put it in the bed on my truck without me having to worry about it. So it has to be a protective or somewhat protective clear coat as well.

Not only that, but figured we all faced this issue, but it needs to withstand a lot of heat. I bought MiniWax's Polycrylic Protective Clear and i was thinking it was perfect until i read it was interior use only and i called the tech support and they said it can only withstand up to 120F and in my car in GA in the summer, the interior just bakes like an oven.

I was recommended car clear coat as well, while this seemed to meet all of my criteria, i heard some mixed things about using it on wood. Things like it should only be used on metal because metal cannot expand and contract like wood can, causing the clear to crack. I heard it was perfectly fine to use on wood and no effects at all. I heard i need to use wood sealer before i painted the box to overcome the expanding and contracting problem. I have car clear coat and everything i need to mix it with as well so this is a viable option but wanted some more opinions before i used it.

So what do you guys use or what can you recommended me?

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[fatboytyler]

Counter top coating. Takes forever to apply. It smells like *** while doing it. But, your box comes out really clean looking and indestructible.

EDIT: You have to apply some sort of resin first (the stinky part), but I can't remember what kind off the top of my head

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

pics of said baddass box?

Don't think I've ever heard of clearcoat for a painted sub enclosure before.....but great idea. High gloss paint?

 

[Polar]

shellac it

 

[tc300 10+ year member]

clear urethane looks AWESOME!!!

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

Use a clear that's the same formula as the paint. Like, if you used lacquer paint use lacquer clear. If you used enamel paint use enamel clear, etc. It'd really **** to use a clear that's more active than the paint, you can get wrinkles that way. You'll probably have to scuff the paint to get good adhesion, so be sure what you have on there has fully cured and is hard enough to be sanded.

 

[MrAcd]

[quote name='Polar']shellac it[/QUOTE]

Shallac wont work, its more of a finish rather than clear coat.


[quote name='fatboytyler']Counter top coating. Takes forever to apply. It smells like *** while doing it. But, your box comes out really clean looking and indestructible.


EDIT: You have to apply some sort of resin first (the stinky part), but I can't remember what kind off the top of my head[/QUOTE]
the counter top clear epoxy acually sounded like a good idea and when looking into it actually seemed like a viable choice, durable, can handle some heat, and clear without any added color like oil based urethane. Except for one thing, it is hella expensive. If it comes down to it I just might have to buy some, but till then i will continue looking, also heard it was really hard to work with.


[quote name='tc300']clear urethane looks AWESOME!!![/QUOTE]
I so want to do urethane as it seems perfect except for the fact that it adds a yellowish finish to it on-top on the clear. It is durable, can withstand heat, and UV protecting. But adds some yellowing.

[quote name='maylar']Use a clear that's the same formula as the paint. Like, if you used lacquer paint use lacquer clear. If you used enamel paint use enamel clear, etc. It'd really **** to use a clear that's more active than the paint, you can get wrinkles that way. You'll probably have to scuff the paint to get good adhesion, so be sure what you have on there has fully cured and is hard enough to be sanded.[/QUOTE]


I sprayed the box with rust-olem spray paint from home depot nothing fancy. It was an oil based paint so do that mean i need a oil based clear coat? If i am undertstanding you @maylar correctly.

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

[quote name='MrAcd']
I sprayed the box with rust-olem spray paint from home depot nothing fancy. It was an oil based paint so do that mean i need a oil based clear coat? If i am undertstanding you @maylar correctly.[/QUOTE]

That would be enamel. It takes a month to cure before you can scuff it for clear. And yes, I would use the clear from that same product line. It's actually pretty durable.

The problem with mixing coating types is that a "hot" paint like lacquer or activated urethane can melt the paint under it and make a real mess. Something like epoxy won't have the fast evaporating solvents, so that should be fine too.

 

[els1989]

[quote name='MrAcd']Shallac wont work, its more of a finish rather than clear coat.



the counter top clear epoxy acually sounded like a good idea and when looking into it actually seemed like a viable choice, durable, can handle some heat, and clear without any added color like oil based urethane. Except for one thing, it is hella expensive. If it comes down to it I just might have to buy some, but till then i will continue looking, also heard it was really hard to work with.



I so want to do urethane as it seems perfect except for the fact that it adds a yellowish finish to it on-top on the clear. It is durable, can withstand heat, and UV protecting. But adds some yellowing.




I sprayed the box with rust-olem spray paint from home depot nothing fancy. It was an oil based paint so do that mean i need a oil based clear coat? If i am undertstanding you @maylar correctly.[/QUOTE]

Oil based urethane yellows waterbased stays clear... I've got a water based one I'm gonna start putting on mine this weekend


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[poolman966554]

That would be enamel. It takes a month to cure before you can scuff it for clear. And yes, I would use the clear from that same product line. It's actually pretty durable.
The problem with mixing coating types is that a "hot" paint like lacquer or activated urethane can melt the paint under it and make a real mess. Something like epoxy won't have the fast evaporating solvents, so that should be fine too.

THIS!! not that im an expert sprayer myself, but i know when an experienced painter talks!

i personally use Urethane based paints only and Only use 2k clears..

on my bike, i did a marbleized paint scheme, looks like glass - candy cobalt n black.

 

[MrAcd]

That would be enamel. It takes a month to cure before you can scuff it for clear. And yes, I would use the clear from that same product line. It's actually pretty durable.
The problem with mixing coating types is that a "hot" paint like lacquer or activated urethane can melt the paint under it and make a real mess. Something like epoxy won't have the fast evaporating solvents, so that should be fine too.

Ok, i do have something that allows different paints to bond with different things. I can not remember the name but you apply it after it has cured and it allows it to bond with other coating types. Would that work if i wanted to use something non enamel based?

If i am understanding correctly, do I want to use something like this Rust-Oleum Stops Rust 12 oz. Gloss Crystal Clear Spray Paint (6-Pack)-7701830 - The Home Depot just not in the 6 pack?

Or could i get better results with adding the bonding stuff and use something like this Minwax Water Based Helmsman Spar Urethane - Spar Varnish | Minwax

 

[MrAcd]

bump

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

Your original question was with regards to durability. From that perspective, I would not use spar urethane. It's a relatively soft finish made for outdoor wood projects. The Rustoleum enamel you have is pretty durable, but any paint is going to scratch if you drag it across the floor of your car. Probably the toughest clear would be automotive 2 part urethane, but that'll scratch too if you abuse it. But 2K urethane isn't cheap and there's a chance that it could wrinkle the enamel you have if you spray it before the paint has fully cured.

There are epoxy finishes that are tough as nails but very expensive and not something the DIY painter is capable of handling.

As I said, if you're looking for a clear I would use the same type as your color. That'll be most compatible (chemically). You don't need an adhesion promoter but you will need to sand the color with 600 grit wet to get the clear to stick.

IMO I'd just keep what you have and be careful moving it. If it gets dinged up then you can decide to strip it all off and start with something better.

 

[MrAcd]

Your original question was with regards to durability. From that perspective, I would not use spar urethane. It's a relatively soft finish made for outdoor wood projects. The Rustoleum enamel you have is pretty durable, but any paint is going to scratch if you drag it across the floor of your car. Probably the toughest clear would be automotive 2 part urethane, but that'll scratch too if you abuse it. But 2K urethane isn't cheap and there's a chance that it could wrinkle the enamel you have if you spray it before the paint has fully cured.
There are epoxy finishes that are tough as nails but very expensive and not something the DIY painter is capable of handling.

As I said, if you're looking for a clear I would use the same type as your color. That'll be most compatible (chemically). You don't need an adhesion promoter but you will need to sand the color with 600 grit wet to get the clear to stick.

IMO I'd just keep what you have and be careful moving it. If it gets dinged up then you can decide to strip it all off and start with something better.

Okay, so if we took away the durability factor, what would be the best option. Like im hoping for a little durability but it doesnt have to be like expoxy strong, just something that wont chip easy or something. It isnt going to be often i take it out, i was only trying to prepare for it so when i did take it out. So you think I should go with the rust-oleum clear coat? Rust-Oleum Stops Rust 12 oz. Gloss Crystal Clear Spray Paint (6-Pack)-7701830 - The Home Depot

the paint is cured it has been about a month, or should i just use regular clear coat and do a good 8 coats or so and get it really thick. I'm thinking the enamel clear coat will be the one to go with, but if we take durability out of being the biggest factor what do you think will work best? i still put stuff in the back cabs so stuff does have tendency to rub against the box but just to keep if from things general things scratching it and for me to move it to the bed of the truck every once in a blue moon?

 

[MrAcd]

^^^^bump @maylar