Why are amplifiers not made like this?

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

What people are trying to say is your premise is wrong.

There's nothing to support your assumption that set screw terminals are inferior to spade terminals -- not logically or anecdotally.

Look at the "money is no issue" brands -- Brax, TRU, Zapco etc -- If there was a good reason to use big spade connectors I'm sure that's what they'd do, there just isn't. You'll find them on some of the lower power amps probably because the ADVANTAGES of set screw connections at lower power are reduced and the cost of the spade terminals is lower.

If you just like spade terminal power/ground/speaker connections -- by all means use them. There is just no electrical advantage.

 

[germanyt 10+ year member]

Sorry I don't see the problem with screw terminals used on nearly all of today's mono block amps. It's is easily the best connection you're gonna get.

 

[-unknown-]

This is easily one of the most misinterpreted threads ever. I was trying to ask questions for somebody else not knowing what they were talking about, and people are trying to answer my questions not knowing what I'm talking about. I don't think anybody knows what I'm talking about, so let me clarify now, even though it won't help and will just get people more annoyed probably. I'm not talking about spade terminals anymore, that was a concept. The concept is to solder or crimp the bare wire into something instead of crushing the wire. Somebody suggested to me I take the plastic off of a butt connector, and solder the wire into that, then tighten the screw down on that. Their reasoning is, the metal on the inside of the butt connector, will take up the whole inside of the power and ground hole, and you won't crush the wire. So the confusion is, I was talking about a concept, or general theory, not knowing fully what the person I'm talking to is trying to ask, and I bet I'm not clearly explaining myself. Maybe I can get a picture sometime. I have no idea why people are replying with distribution block pictures, that's not even relevant. I'm talking about the end of the wire on the amplifiers end, a different connection that won't crush the wire. My "Installer" keeps arguing with me about "everybody makes the connection wrong, by crushing the wire". I say forget about it and do it how everybody does it, crush the wire, because there are no alternatives.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Your installer is an idiot if he thinks "crushing a wire" isn't a good connection. It's been done many years and proven....why reinvent the wheel?

Does he have a better alternative to say a 2k amp?? If so I'd love to see it.

Otherwise, this thread was unnecessary.

 

[-unknown-]

Honestly, I'd like to see this thread deleted because of misinterpretation, confusion, and uselessness.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

What are the official alternatives to putting bare wire in the amp? Are there any common methods besides bare wire and screw? I'm talking about the power, ground, remote, and speaker wires.

just solder the wire before inserting it into the amp. that way you aren't crushing the wiring. but you also lose surface area when you do that because the set screw terminal pushes wiring away so it fills the bottom.

it's important to have strain relief independent of the connection so the set screw isn't holding the wiring in place. both pics on the front page are of poor methods because they lack strain relief.

yes, you will break strands with a set screw into stranded wire but you gain surface area contact.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

and no, terminals/lugs are not weaker. it's how we move massive amounts of power commercially.

National Electrical Code recognizes temperature ratings of connections and wire and the effect on ampacity. how you make the connection limits how much current you can safely pass through the connection.

you may also notice that ambient temperature also affects ampacity.

 

[bump465]

This is easily one of the most misinterpreted threads ever. I was trying to ask questions for somebody else not knowing what they were talking about, and people are trying to answer my questions not knowing what I'm talking about. I don't think anybody knows what I'm talking about, so let me clarify now, even though it won't help and will just get people more annoyed probably. I'm not talking about spade terminals anymore, that was a concept. The concept is to solder or crimp the bare wire into something instead of crushing the wire. Somebody suggested to me I take the plastic off of a butt connector, and solder the wire into that, then tighten the screw down on that. Their reasoning is, the metal on the inside of the butt connector, will take up the whole inside of the power and ground hole, and you won't crush the wire. So the confusion is, I was talking about a concept, or general theory, not knowing fully what the person I'm talking to is trying to ask, and I bet I'm not clearly explaining myself. Maybe I can get a picture sometime. I have no idea why people are replying with distribution block pictures, that's not even relevant. I'm talking about the end of the wire on the amplifiers end, a different connection that won't crush the wire. My "Installer" keeps arguing with me about "everybody makes the connection wrong, by crushing the wire". I say forget about it and do it how everybody does it, crush the wire, because there are no alternatives.

It sounds like you believe that the more pressure you place on a connection the more efficent it will be. This may be true for a loose connection that doesnt sit still.

But wether you crush the wire so hard you cold solder it or simply hold the wire in place with your hands - both wires will carry the same amps and dame internal resistance.

A more solid connection is really only useful for making sure your wires dont pop out on 25 hert wuubs.

 

[tc300 10+ year member]

I'm talking about soldering the wire on the amplifiers end into a ring terminal or something, and putting a screw through it like on the battery end. Why do amp manufacturers not make them like that, so you don't crush the wire with a screw?

because those amps are not in the "big leagues" //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

The insert wire into large hole and with a set screw is the most advantage you will ever get to achieve the most current draw from battery to amp....

All that set screw's job is to hold the wire in place. That's it. Inserting the wire in there w/o the set screw and the wire would just fall out.

Really tho...it's not rocket science here. Rather child's play.

On a side note, I don't know how many of ya'll have inserted 1/0 power/ground wire in the amps 1/0 acceptable inputs only to realize you gotta fight with it several minutes to prevent strands popping out as the wire goes in. Wish mfgr's would "open up" the inputs a tad more.

 

[-unknown-]

What do ya'll think about this?

 

[Massive spl]

What do ya'll think about this?

That's pretty much what I posted on the page back but the toolmaker ones I posted had dual 0gauge inputs because u wanted more wire making a connection...

 

[-unknown-]

I didnt know what that was. It doesn't look like a ferrule? I don't need nothing 1/0. The biggest wire I have is 4 gauge.