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squeak9798 5,000+ posts
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- #31
You don't need a 4-channel, a 2-channel will work just fine for a single comp set.
For one, it's only a 3-way component "set" if all 3 speakers go to the same passive crossover network. In your example, the RE 6.5+tweets would be a component set, and the XXX mids would be additional speakers that you are trying to work in.Even if it is a 3way comp set?
ok.
Lets say i want the rexxx mids in the doors, and sense i already have them, the re re 6.5's & Tweets in the kicks?
if my amp puts out like 75x2@4 and 150x2@2, then the mids will get the proper 150 watts, and the rest will get the proper 75?
Or is that not what you are saying?....
Basically the Q is will my amp see a terrible stupid load, and send all the speakers the same power?
Regardless, it's still a 3-way front stage //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gifFor one, it's only a 3-way component "set" if all 3 speakers go to the same passive crossover network. In your example, the RE 6.5+tweets would be a component set, and the XXX mids would be additional speakers that you are trying to work in.
if it were ME, id keep the RE mid\tweet comp set on its passive Xover the way it wants to be - on channel 1\2 for 75x2@4, and then channel 3\4 id run straight to an active BANDPASS Xover and then to the XXXmids in your doors - play with the xover until it blends with the mids\tweets and the substage, then you will have 75x2@4 and on the other channels, 150x2@2. and full controll over the midbass frequencies and the subbass frequencies (via low pass filter on your amp). the mid\tweet will be static (cuz of the passive Xover) but they were meant to play those frequencies... you might have to lowpass the signal INTO the passive Xover. a simple Fmod from harrison labs on cardomain\store can do this, or the active Xover might have 2 or 3 channels you can use instead to make it more controllable because Fmods will ONLY cut at a CERTAIN frequency.Even if it is a 3way comp set?
ok.
Lets say i want the rexxx mids in the doors, and sense i already have them, the re re 6.5's & Tweets in the kicks?
if my amp puts out like 75x2@4 and 150x2@2, then the mids will get the proper 150 watts, and the rest will get the proper 75?
Or is that not what you are saying?....
Basically the Q is will my amp see a terrible stupid load, and send all the speakers the same power?
jordans //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gifThere are speakers that play full range quite well, maybe you can't fit a set of Weems or Voight pipes in a vehicle, but they do exist and are in common usage //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
don't know if this is technically on topic, but what cross overs would be best to use when achieving good quality? or are all cross overs the same?
I believe you are talking about a built-in equalizer, not a built in crossover. And yes, for a simple setup, the HU's built in equalizer will do fine.another question about crossovers....If anybody reads this anymore
Would crossovers built in head unit work for simple setup. On my kenwood deck I have 5 presets of crossovers.
If you use a passive crossover, you only need to run one input into the crossover, then connect all of the speakers to the outputs of the crossover.I was confused about 2 ways and three ways. So if I have a set rated at say 100rms will I need to connect crossovers to each speakers (tweetr,midbass,midrange) or will I need only connecting crossover to one output and then have postive and negative leads to amp from cross.. Thanks in advance.