What generates the most heat on amps?

so could i run a zx1500.1 at .5ohm since i have dual 2ohm l7's if so wat kind of imp rise would i see, and wat kind of power would it put out
but wat kind of electrical will i need mine at 2ohms now gets hot now
way too many variables effect imp rise to tell you it'll be X many ohms. sometimes its a little, sometimes its ALOT. alot of it is dependent on the box.

on the other hand....i know someone locally selling a kx 2500.1 for 375....could i run this at 1 ohm just for tl runs with a stock 90 amp alt and a yellow top...sorry for the thread jack...reason for the question is my 1508s are d4

for burps youll be fine. keep an eye on the voltage and avoid going under 12v. if the YT is close to or right next to the amp that'll help alot.

as far as severe cooling. condensation would be a major issue with that.

 
The problem with trying to water cool an amp is your putting it someplace with a lot of vibrations. That will increase the possibility of the hoses coming off the amps and liquid covering your amp (just slightly bad) The downside of the refrigeration unit is that you will end up icing up water on the amp and when your car is turned off then the ice will melt and water on amp (still bad) The best bet would either be to try to not run it at such a low impedence or maybe reroute A/C to that area or set up fans in a push pull configuration to pull hot air out and push cold air in.

 
Water cooled amplifiers have been done before in car audio... but it dosen't matter how good your cooling is, if you run a fet outside of it's SOA for long enough it's going to blow...

The OP essentially wants to run a 2ohm stable amp at .5 ohms.. assuming the amp will even power up and not go into protect right away you can plan on getting significantly less clean power then you would at 2ohms..

Forget about impedance rise.. for daily use the nominal impedance will still be right around half an ohm...

Personally, I wouldn't even try it unless it was being used for SPL burps only...

 
Water cooled amplifiers have been done before in car audio... but it dosen't matter how good your cooling is, if you run a fet outside of it's SOA for long enough it's going to blow...
The OP essentially wants to run a 2ohm stable amp at .5 ohms.. assuming the amp will even power up and not go into protect right away you can plan on getting significantly less clean power then you would at 2ohms..

Forget about impedance rise.. for daily use the nominal impedance will still be right around half an ohm...

Personally, I wouldn't even try it unless it was being used for SPL burps only...
The burp has been done by tommyk and some other good folk. a zx 2500.1 (same board) wired to half ohm imp rise brought it up to around 2 something ohms and the amp was running 90% efficient. i thought maybe there's hope if i can provide it with a solid electrical backing.

 
Same board isn't the same amp. The board isn't what blows, it's the components on the board that you have to worry about.

Liquid cooling isn't all that cosmic and has been done before. It was available as an option on the older Bazooka amps in fact. Going with a pressurized system would be quite the PITA and would only give you marginal gains compared to a simple liquid to air exchanger with a simple pump and radiator system. The simple setup would also use a LOT less power leaving more current available for the amps.

 
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3829140&CatId=1057

T925-1269-main.jpg


try liquid cooling

 
Putting the amp in a fridge does no more to remove heat from the heatsink that just having it sitting in the open. It will cool slightly quicker because of the cooler surrounding air, but you have to move air around the amp to maximize efficiency, but thermally coupling the heatsink to circulating coolant will do a much better job because of the heat transfer rate.

 
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