2014 Accord Sport SQ Build keep_hope_alive

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Your attention to detail is amazing. Did you get rid of your 2001 accord? I really like these new model accords, best design up to date for them.

yes, the 2001 Accord was stripped of it's stereo, returned to stock, and sold to a buddy. I didn't like the 2003-2012 Accord models. I drove a 2012 EX that was only a few grand less than the 2014 Sport and the 2012 just felt dated, same interior materials as my 2001. the new gen is beautiful inside and out.

 

[quakerroatmeal 10+ year member]

I would have to agree the 2012 is just not pretty looking. When compared to the 2013+ new body style. The coupe is really nice as well. Congrats on your purchase & you definitely wasted no time stripping the audio lol.

 

[mrfr3sh2def]

yes, the 2001 Accord was stripped of it's stereo, returned to stock, and sold to a buddy. I didn't like the 2003-2012 Accord models. I drove a 2012 EX that was only a few grand less than the 2014 Sport and the 2012 just felt dated, same interior materials as my 2001. the new gen is beautiful inside and out.

you inspire me!

 

[suprachica79 10+ year member]

Not sure you remember me, but you really helped give me tips on my 2007 Honda Accord build. I'm at the point where I feel both my accord and RSX would really benefit from some solid sound deadening and plan to follow just about all of what you did. I plan to go with knukonceptz kolossus CLD based on the testing being done over at DIYMA, and the MLV you suggested from Home Depot. For CCF, I found the following and wanted your thoughts on it-

Foam Insulation, Padding, Closed-Cell Foam - Polyethylene Roll

Will that work? Even with shipping, I can get about 45sq ft. for $35, much cheaper than 42sq ft. for $60+ shipping for the raamaudio ensolite. I'd love to know what you thought of that product, and if it would be sufficient for decoupling the MLV from the other hard surfaces.

Also, I am having a hard time locating exactly what you use for the absorption layer inside the door skin. You stated Armstrong 404 b, but I can't seem to find it at either of the major hardware stores. Would you be able to provide a link to the product? Or, is there a negative to using the ultra touch instead of the ceiling tiles you showed? Anyways, always love your builds and would love some guidance to get my doors done! Thanks!

 

[barobbin]

can you post a link to the compressed fiberglass ceiling tiles you are using? or ones that will work.

thanks,

brad

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Not sure you remember me, but you really helped give me tips on my 2007 Honda Accord build. I'm at the point where I feel both my accord and RSX would really benefit from some solid sound deadening and plan to follow just about all of what you did. I plan to go with knukonceptz kolossus CLD based on the testing being done over at DIYMA, and the MLV you suggested from Home Depot. For CCF, I found the following and wanted your thoughts on it-Foam Insulation, Padding, Closed-Cell Foam - Polyethylene Roll

Will that work? Even with shipping, I can get about 45sq ft. for $35, much cheaper than 42sq ft. for $60+ shipping for the raamaudio ensolite. I'd love to know what you thought of that product, and if it would be sufficient for decoupling the MLV from the other hard surfaces.

Also, I am having a hard time locating exactly what you use for the absorption layer inside the door skin. You stated Armstrong 404 b, but I can't seem to find it at either of the major hardware stores. Would you be able to provide a link to the product? Or, is there a negative to using the ultra touch instead of the ceiling tiles you showed? Anyways, always love your builds and would love some guidance to get my doors done! Thanks!

that foam roll will be fine. ultratouch is fine instead of panels. the radiant barrier product can be layered as well. foil side away from the speaker.

can you post a link to the compressed fiberglass ceiling tiles you are using? or ones that will work.thanks,

brad

these are the cheap tiles i use

https://www.menards.com/main/home-decor/ceilings/ceilings-for-the-home/armstrong-pebble-fiberglass-square-edge-tile/p-1470437-c-13612.htm

 

[broo0d]

[Please forgive me if this is a stupid question] I have a 2014 Accord Sport as well. In fact it is the same color combination. I love the car. I am currently on deployment, and plan to do a very similar SQ build when I return. Hertz/Audison all the way around, within my budget of about $3000. With you studies of the alt on our cars, do you plan on replacing the alternator? What is the amperage rated at? And, do you recommend anything besides capacitors and the "big 3"? Thanks ahead of time for the help.
Kurt

I have the same question. I have a 2013 accord and planned to do a hertz/audison and mosconi-DSP build.

Another question i have is did you use MDF rings on the front doors? I couldnt see them in the pictures.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I have the same question. I have a 2013 accord and planned to do a hertz/audison and mosconi-DSP build.
Another question i have is did you use MDF rings on the front doors? I couldnt see them in the pictures.

No, i did not replace the alt and i don't have immediate plans to. my voltage is perfectly stable. i invested in an ultracap bank instead.

i will look to bypass the ELD in order to keep the alt output on "high".

i did not make MDF rings, i used the plastic scosche mounts then isolated with foam, filled voids with modeling clay, and wrapped with deadener.

 

[ladysmanfelpz 10+ year member]

Must have been a chore putting that ensolite on the back of your inner door skin. You said you reached through the speaker hole to apply? Had to be uncomfortable. I know the stuff is sticky, but how'd you get enough pressure on the back of the CCF for it to adhere to the heavy MLV?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

It wasn't easy. But worth it.

 

[Ramrod 10+ year member]

Looking good. Bet those doors are solid now.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

They don't sound like doors. Which was the goal.

 

[CSCStang]

They don't sound like doors. Which was the goal.

Couldn't agree more. Well worth the extra work. Very happy with my front stage.

 

---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:36 PM ----------

 

Looking good. Bet those doors are solid now.

Nice avv lol.

 

[Ramrod 10+ year member]

They don't sound like doors. Which was the goal.

Good point.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/bowdown.gif.b85b23b82970bd22fb6b549c3392f016.gif

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

a long break for many reasons - mostly other projects. Since I have the second HU, i have a clean source. But a little motivation got me back into it.

Step 1 is to add wire to the Audio Input pins on the HU amplifier IC. This is the easiest place to get a low-distortion signal before the internal amplifier and this signal should already be passed through pre-amplifiers. Doing so required 30awg "wire wrapping wire" (OK Industries R-30W-0050) and a 0.03 in. soldering tip.

An LED magnifying lamp helps as well, and some of the pics are through the lens.

In all, I tapped 7 places.

Pin 14: FL in (left front audio - unbalanced)

Pin 15: FR in (right front audio - unbalanced)

Pin 12: RL in (left rear audio - unbalanced)

Pin 11: RR in (right rear audio - unbalanced)

Pin 13: AGND (audio signal ground)

Pin 25: B REM (remote turn-on)

Pin 22: MUTE (suspected telephone mute)

odd-numbered pins are in the front and easier to access (you don't have to remove the board). even-numbered pins are in the back and you need to remove the board to get your soldering iron in there. Removing the IC isn't necessary. This took about an hour start to finish and i did reference my instructions at the start of this thread for the order in which to disassemble. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I may have a concern with running parallel loads on the pre-amp on the board, but the opamps should be fully capable of supplying twice as much current given how little current feeds an input stage (typically 10,000 ohms).

Next steps (tomorrow evening) include adding small heat shrink up to the connections for protection. Then I'll connect the wires to some RCA pigtails (pulled from an older Alpine head unit that was for parts). And the remote and mute will need a connector added. i can cut into the top cover to notch for the RCA pigtails.

all wires connected

front pins

rear pins

RCA to be added

once I have RCA outputs I can run them directly into my 9887 AUX input and also RTA the output (what we really are interested in). I suspect the output will be fixed (non-varying) because most amplifier IC's have a volume input.