can you blow a speaker from too little power? only smart people please

So your saying that a 200 @ 4 ohm amp will do 400 with the gain turned all the way up.
Definitionally, yes.

If a sub is rated at 400 RMS. Id be willing to be that 300 RMS clipped will blow it before 500 RMS Clean does.
If the power after clipping is 300 and the sub can genuinely handle 400 then you'd lose that bet. I also doubt that a quality sub is rated right at it its limit. To do so would be rather dumb for a company.

 
Definitionally, yes.

If the power after clipping is 300 and the sub can genuinely handle 400 then you'd lose that bet. I also doubt that a quality sub is rated right at it its limit. To do so would be rather dumb for a company.
How so ? It would be dumb for a company to honestly rate their products by what they can actually handle over a longer period of time.

 
How so ? It would be dumb for a company to honestly rate their products by what they can actually handle over a longer period of time.
Think about it this way. Every manufactured product has some design tolerance. If the sub was spec'd to handle 400W and the tolerance was 5% that would mean that some of them could only handle 380W. What happens when a customer supplies a real 400W to the speaker and blows it on some bass heavy music? If he's the typical **** sure imbecile on this site, he'll instantly make 20 threads about how this company's subs are pieces of **** and couldn't even handle rated power.

Conversely, a company advertises that their subs can handle 300W knowing full well that they are designed around 600. Instead of people bitching about blowing subs, they're in here bragging about how great their subs are since they're sending their 300W subs 500W and they're handling it fine.

Additionally, by putting some margin into the power handling ratings, they will have fewer nuisance warranty claims regarding blown subs (despite the fact that pretty much no company warrants cooked coils).

 
Think about it this way. Every manufactured product has some design tolerance. If the sub was spec'd to handle 400W and the tolerance was 5% that would mean that some of them could only handle 380W. What happens when a customer supplies a real 400W to the speaker and blows it on some bass heavy music? If he's the typical **** sure imbecile on this site, he'll instantly make 20 threads about how this company's subs are pieces of **** and couldn't even handle rated power.
Conversely, a company advertises that their subs can handle 300W knowing full well that they are designed around 600. Instead of people bitching about blowing subs, they're in here bragging about how great their subs are since they're sending their 300W subs 500W and they're handling it fine.

Additionally, by putting some margin into the power handling ratings, they will have fewer nuisance warranty claims regarding blown subs (despite the fact that pretty much no company warrants cooked coils).
THISSS. I have my 175W RMS subs on 350 and they can handle the power just fine, but I don't treat them as if they were rated for 350W. I'm always checking the temps of the caps, and only play full tilt when I have good voltage.

If they were rated for 350, you can be sure that both the experienced and inexperienced alike would experience some failures...

 
You're an idiot and that's all I have to say
newb everyone knows it was amis type meaning you can power any speaker with less power and everything will be fine. who are you anyways?

 
Doesn't work that way. As long as voltage is applied and current is flowing through the coil it is applying force to the coil moving it away from center. The cone continues to move out until either the coil force is removed or reverses direction, the coil force is insufficient to overcome the suspension and loading forces or the sub hits a mechanical limit. Just because the wave form is clipped doesn't mean that the sub movement looks like the waveform.
The movement of the woofer cone looks EXACTLY like the waveform going in. That's what a loudspeaker is supposed to do.

Take a woofer and attatch a D cell flashlight battery for a second or two and tell me if the cone keeps moving. That is direct current. The top/squared piece of a clipped waveform is direct current and the cone is NOT moving.

 
newb everyone knows it was amis type meaning you can power any speaker with less power and everything will be fine. who are you anyways?
It looks like a pretty big mistype then. Besides if it was a mistype then why don't you go back and edit it?

 
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