Did my box design fail me?

Yes i admit i could have taken more time to work on better bracing. From what i can tell the box doesnt have any flex at all but i did think about it resonating enough to be coloring the sound. there's a sound on mostly the transient hits that sounds like that sort of popping sound you hear with heavy clipping when im playing a clean signal near full tilt and i cant quite figure out why. It doesnt sound to me like it could be the box making the noise. Unfortunately its gonna be near impossible for me to do some real good bracing inside without maybe cutting off the top baffle, which i, thinking i may be able to get away with, ive done it on another box before that i needed to change a bit for a temporary setup. then i could alter my tuning a little easier as well
Should be doable... Boxes come apart easier than most people around here like to act like they do sometimes.. Get a razor blade with a handle, remove all the screws and shove that blade into the gap and it should come loose a bit.

If you want to check if it's resonating, crank it up on some music with a variety of high and low tones and see how she hold up. Real low tones and real high tones tend to work the best.. Things around 20hz and aroudd 60hz, IME. On the high notes you shouldn't hear any nasty buzzing, if you do brace your longest panels with your hand and see if it goes away a bit.. On the low notes, you may find the wood on the larger peices bends or buckles, just placing your hand lightly on the top will allow you to feel what type of stress it's under.

Box building IS FAR from my forte.. It took me quite a while to learn how to make things that were 100% structurally sound.. Most of the big SPL guys use 5 layer boxes no bracing, and trying to implement that in a daily driver doesn't work well. Had to learn that the hard way, also I don't have all the tools I need so the cuts aren't always perfect.. I've had to do a lot of build, rebuild processes before.. Haven't had too many issues in the last year or two, but trust me, I used to have issues like this often.

Anyway basic rule of thumb is if it's 3/4MDF you need some kind of bracing for every 12 inches.. So you should have 2 dowels on those longer sides.. You could throw a couple panel style braces along the walls fairly easy. Take some scrap 3/4 mdf and basically double layer the box for about 4-6 inches running along each side of the dowls along all your long walls.

 
Should be doable... Boxes come apart easier than most people around here like to act like they do sometimes.. Get a razor blade with a handle, remove all the screws and shove that blade into the gap and it should come loose a bit.
If you want to check if it's resonating, crank it up on some music with a variety of high and low tones and see how she hold up. Real low tones and real high tones tend to work the best.. Things around 20hz and aroudd 60hz, IME. On the high notes you shouldn't hear any nasty buzzing, if you do brace your longest panels with your hand and see if it goes away a bit.. On the low notes, you may find the wood on the larger peices bends or buckles, just placing your hand lightly on the top will allow you to feel what type of stress it's under.

Box building IS FAR from my forte.. It took me quite a while to learn how to make things that were 100% structurally sound.. Most of the big SPL guys use 5 layer boxes no bracing, and trying to implement that in a daily driver doesn't work well. Had to learn that the hard way, also I don't have all the tools I need so the cuts aren't always perfect.. I've had to do a lot of build, rebuild processes before.. Haven't had too many issues in the last year or two, but trust me, I used to have issues like this often.

Anyway basic rule of thumb is if it's 3/4MDF you need some kind of bracing for every 12 inches.. So you should have 2 dowels on those longer sides.. You could throw a couple panel style braces along the walls fairly easy. Take some scrap 3/4 mdf and basically double layer the box for about 4-6 inches running along each side of the dowls along all your long walls.
I have a hard time believing you could split the top off without cutting it as the wood glue becomes stronger than the wood itself. I havent been able to stand behind it with the trunk open and observe them much unfortunately i havent found a great place to do it and will piss too many people off at my house. I did spend a little time shortly after getting the box in at first listening for resonance and such and with my hand on the box it didnt feel like there was any panel flex at all. I am not the best at design, and my construction is not amazing as i dont have a table saw, so yea i have the same issue with cuts but i have made a lot of boxes still in the past and im usually able to correct any inadequacies. This box just isnt satisfying me i expected it to get much louder. I actually didnt use MDF on this box its birch, but it was the only birch ply they had at home depot and its only 5 ply so that could definitely be a problem

 
I have a hard time believing you could split the top off without cutting it as the wood glue becomes stronger than the wood itself. I havent been able to stand behind it with the trunk open and observe them much unfortunately i havent found a great place to do it and will piss too many people off at my house. I did spend a little time shortly after getting the box in at first listening for resonance and such and with my hand on the box it didnt feel like there was any panel flex at all. I am not the best at design, and my construction is not amazing as i dont have a table saw, so yea i have the same issue with cuts but i have made a lot of boxes still in the past and im usually able to correct any inadequacies. This box just isnt satisfying me i expected it to get much louder. I actually didnt use MDF on this box its birch, but it was the only birch ply they had at home depot and its only 5 ply so that could definitely be a problem
Give it a shot, unless I've bought a bunch of defective tight bond II it always works for me, and i use plenty of glue and screws, once the screws comes out, it'll seperate with just a razor blade to get it going. At least with MDF, sometimes it'll pull up a very thin layer of MDF with it, I don't know how birch will react.. By the time I used birch on boxes, I no longer had a reason to pull them apart anymore lol.

 
This thread has been very helpful to me guys ! I have a 2007 Impala ss and a DC audio 18xl . Im about to start my fourth box for this car . I have tried about every configuration that would fit in the space I have to work with . Sub up port back is the way to go . I am not a great box builder or designer . I have been using Pvc for my port . With sub up port back and a 6" Pvc port I have had problems with my tuning . I'm shooting for 35 Herz but my last box was way to low . I cut my port down and it helped but the sub is just not performing like I know it can . So would any of you car audio masters have a box design that would work for me . i Keep blowing all my cash on MDF when I would like to be upgrading some other part of my system . Ant help would be GREATLY appreciated . This is the room I have 14H X 34L X 32W HELP

 
about the weird resonatating sounds - i kno it may seem silly - but toss a few hand fulls of pollyfill / or some air filter material ( like for the ac on your house ) can be stapled to the walls of your enclosure since your ported ive had a couple of enclosures pre fab that did the same strange sounds at certan frequencys. the pollyfill helped with that in my scenereo -

 
NASTY08IMPALA;8590054Exactly except for a few decaf songs i demo for ppl to show the lower end that stuff is crapp..get ur tuning mid to upper 30s and u will still be able to extend into the mid 20s fine.id try sacrificing the tuning first then port area 2nd
Don't listen to this guy, types ******** all long. He 0 knowledge, ca.com biggest idiot

 
Don't listen to this guy, types ******** all long. He 0 knowledge, ca.com biggest idiot
lol. He is an ***, but he has experience with the vehicle, so that's always helpful. Your spelling and grammar prove little of your own intelligence though...

 
This thread has been very helpful to me guys ! I have a 2007 Impala ss and a DC audio 18xl . Im about to start my fourth box for this car . I have tried about every configuration that would fit in the space I have to work with . Sub up port back is the way to go . I am not a great box builder or designer . I have been using Pvc for my port . With sub up port back and a 6" Pvc port I have had problems with my tuning . I'm shooting for 35 Herz but my last box was way to low . I cut my port down and it helped but the sub is just not performing like I know it can . So would any of you car audio masters have a box design that would work for me . i Keep blowing all my cash on MDF when I would like to be upgrading some other part of my system . Ant help would be GREATLY appreciated . This is the room I have 14H X 34L X 32W HELP
Yea my 18 got pretty damn loud sub up port back but the response in the box it was in sucked. What have you tried so far? my box was about 6 cubes net with 16sq in of port per cube at 35 i believe

 
Give it a shot, unless I've bought a bunch of defective tight bond II it always works for me, and i use plenty of glue and screws, once the screws comes out, it'll seperate with just a razor blade to get it going. At least with MDF, sometimes it'll pull up a very thin layer of MDF with it, I don't know how birch will react.. By the time I used birch on boxes, I no longer had a reason to pull them apart anymore lol.
Ha yea well unfortunately i didn't plan on this design not being what i wanted when i built it. Oh well no sweat. I am gonna try that and see if it prys up like you said otherwise ill take a circular saw and cut right under the baffle, ive made that work before

 
Ha yea well unfortunately i didn't plan on this design not being what i wanted when i built it. Oh well no sweat. I am gonna try that and see if it prys up like you said otherwise ill take a circular saw and cut right under the baffle, ive made that work before
Did it on a box a friendmade this weekend. Def works The glue is strong, but once you give it somwhere to start moving from it's not soo bad.. Razor blade all the way around and then get a screw driver wedges in there to pull it off.. takes a bit of back and forth, but I took off a big panel with no issues, all of a 10 minute job... You'll have to sand it all smooth again whenyour done to reglue it, or flip it around if your lazy and planned on carpeting anyways.

 
Did it on a box a friendmade this weekend. Def works The glue is strong, but once you give it somwhere to start moving from it's not soo bad.. Razor blade all the way around and then get a screw driver wedges in there to pull it off.. takes a bit of back and forth, but I took off a big panel with no issues, all of a 10 minute job... You'll have to sand it all smooth again whenyour done to reglue it, or flip it around if your lazy and planned on carpeting anyways.
Im gonna see what i can do i still havent had much time to do anything. i got to do a little listening outside of the trunk and i cant figure out what this popping noise is on transient notes. with a completely clean signal and lower power it still does it and its what seems to be making them sound shitty. I was wondering if maybe i needed recones but i dont see why they would be making that noise? and the coils read perfect when i put them in the box. hmm

 
Im gonna see what i can do i still havent had much time to do anything. i got to do a little listening outside of the trunk and i cant figure out what this popping noise is on transient notes. with a completely clean signal and lower power it still does it and its what seems to be making them sound shitty. I was wondering if maybe i needed recones but i dont see why they would be making that noise? and the coils read perfect when i put them in the box. hmm
Pull the sub out of the box and run them free air. If the noise goes away it's the box, if it's the subs you'll hear it and can probably figure out where it is.

 
Pull the sub out of the box and run them free air. If the noise goes away it's the box, if it's the subs you'll hear it and can probably figure out where it is.
I shall do so, I have heard different cases of mechnical damage, and its defintely not something like the coil hitting the plate. but you know that sound when yoiu run a sub free air too hard,its the suspension i supppose?

 
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